Our first week in Buenos Aires, we went to Cafe Tortoni to have coffee and a medialuna in a cafe that was once frequented by Borges and other members of the Argentine intellectual elite.  There is always a line of eager tourists at the door (which, surprisingly, does not effect the ambiance of the cafe inside (even though I am a tourist, I think I am allowed to be disdainful of other tourists)). Inside, the walls are paneled with dark wood, wall paper, and paintings. You could spend hours just walking the circumference of the room, looking at all the different momentos the cafe’s famous patrons have left behind.