Author: mjeanlouis

Reflection Paper-Megan Jean Louis

Chinatown, for  me is a mixed neighborhood just like any other. In Chinatown and beyond: The Chinese Population in Metropolitan New York, it states that a longitudinal study of the rate changing racial or ethnic composition of New York Chinatown cannot be done because of the lack of data, and it made me pause. It reminds me of the repressive governments that we used to and continue to live under. It also makes me have more hope for the future, in regards to how new and open minds can tackle the problem. That we can continue to try and rectify the mistakes of our past. In the past it was stated that the entire triangular space of Mott, Pell, and Doyers Streets including Chatham Square was basically for people from China. While many would characterize it as a self-imposed segregation, I would refer to it as a form of self-preservation from others. That same area is still the core of Chinatown but it’s starting to give way to a mixed neighborhood. Regardless of make up, Chinatown is probably more diverse than some states in the union.

Chinatown in New York provides recreational, financial, and other services for east Asians in the metropolitan area. My experience in Chinatown observing them and speaking to certain people have guided my belief that this ethnic enclave indoor for time to come make stronger decisions on what will happen in the future. However, Chinatown is changing as people with higher income, education, occupation tends to move near the city. Students also tend to live around institutions of higher education which are mostly uptown as opposed to downtown/ Lower East Side where Chinatown exists. As the younger generation tends to move away from Chinatown as it attempted to be a land of tradition as opposed to a land of the future where many Chinese Americans who become enveloped in the idea of Americanism begin to downplay the importance of some portions of their cultural heritage. I would assume that in the future the Chinese population will be dispersed over the metropolitan area.

 

Chinatown is a site that structures and also signifies the incorporation of Chinese immigrants inter-American society. As an urban area, New York’s Chinatown is familiar for its residential tenant buildings, loft manufacturing sweatshops, restaurants and street markets. The district is jammed vigorously into the southern pocket of Manhattan’s lower East side. The labor power of its industrious people have constructed an ethnic enclave that is the center of economic and social life for the Chinese population through out the New York City metropolitan area. To the people that live in Chinatown, it represents not just a productive arena but, from what I heard after speaking with a shopkeeper, a place of “cultural significance” and a quote “community of symbolic and sentimental value”.

 

For many who live outside of New York’s Chinatown, Chinatown has historically been inscribed as an overcrowded, dilapidated place, plagued with vice and social wretchedness. Personally, I tack that onto the anti-Oriental images of the late 19th-century. However, the end of ongoing durability of negative mental constructions is evident in a variety of ways. In many of the prime time television shows that are placed in New York, Chinatown has been viewed as an are hiding its crime, Implicating Chinatown as a place beset with social problems as well as undocumented immigrants. Even last year Fox News approached elderly Asian people and mocked them on television. After approaching many other Chinese Americans who lived in Chinatown for decades, I met a woman that I purposely kept out of my field notes. She spoke to me about how the US immigration policies in 1965 were the set of laws that provided the opportunity for American Chinatown to become family centered communities. New York’s Chinatown began to grow expansively in the nation’s largest Chinese American settlement, absorbing both legal and illegal migrants. I believe that the source of the changes from the United States government’s outlook on Chinese migrants is born from the alliance between the United States and China during World War II because it created a favorable diplomatic climate and Congress had rescinded the Chinese Exclusion Act in 1943(King).

 

 Chinatown is a very singular place in the way that it created a home away from home for its people. After traveling through Chinatown and feeling like an outsider looking in, I believe that there’s so much that every culture has in common with another. While the foods and language may be different, the sense of family remains. My ideas about Chinatown weren’t challenged because I already knew that there was nothing wrong with it.  Chinatown will continue to an area of immense importance to Chinese Americans regardless of gentrification and revamping(Sze). I am of the mind that Chinatown is just going to evolve, and that the next generation will care more for its protection.

 

Works Cited

  • Yuan, D. Y. “Chinatown and Beyond: The Chinese Population in Metropolitan New York.” 27.4
    (1966): 321-32. Web. 7 Apr. 2017.
  • Lin, Jan. Reconstructing Chinatown: ethnic enclaves and global change. Vol. 2. U of Minnesota Press, 1998.
  • King, Haitung, and Frances B. Locke. “Chinese in the United States: A Century of Occupational Transition.” The International Migration Review, vol. 14, no. 1, 1980, pp. 15–42.,
  • Sze, Lena. “Chinatown Then and Neoliberal Now: Gentrification Consciousness and the Ethnic-Specific Museum.” Identities, 17:5 (2010): 510-529, EBSCO. Web. 4 Apr. 2017.

A Trip down Mott Street(Field Note#1)

After researching Chinatown, I realized that there was one common theme; Mott Street. Mott Street, for me, is a shopping street. Large stands with designer knockoff bags, electronics, scarves, gloves, and other souvenirs.  In my first trip to Chinatown, I mostly saw fruit sellers, fishmongers and butchers. This area is where you allow your culinary imagination to run wild.  On certain blocks, open fish markets are extremely lively. Auctioning off the freshest catches create lots of discussions over pricing. An elderly woman who ran a certain fruit stand on Mott Street gave me a dragon fruit to  try. It has a pretty sweet flavor and lots of health benefits. They also had red dragon or pink dragon; with the pink being more tangy as opposed to the sweeter red dragon fruit.

South of Canal Street are more restaurants and small specialty shops with antiques, dresses, housewares, and items for cooking. A few of the dim sum restaurants , I’ve been told by friends, are on par with any in Hong Kong. Most stick with the shrimp and beef dumplings, but others will start off with marinated chicken feet and chicken tripe.

Mott Street also contains the Original Chinatown Ice Cream Factory.  With over forty exotic flavors, you can always find something new to try. Its extremely experimental with new flavors appearing every few months. The shop is usually packed but certain days you can go straight from the line they also have flavors that are favored by Americans, such as chocolate, vanilla, Oreos, cookies and cream etc. It is pricey, mostly because of its type in the media. But it never disappoints.  For over 30 years, this family ice cream shop has been serving their homemade ice cream from Chinatown.

Mott St  is Chinatown’s unofficial Main Street. It runs from Chatham in the south to Bleecker Street in the north. Mott Street has existed in this way  since the mid 18th century. Mott Street feels like it was built around natural landscapes rather than running through or over them.  One interesting featuring of Chinatown and ethnic enclaves in general, are their proximity to each other.  Mott Street north of Canal Street was historically part of Little Italy. It is now predominately Chinese. This section of Mott Street between roughly Canal and Broome Streets has a number of Chinese- owned fish and vegetable markets, as well as some remaining Italian businesses. Regardless, Mott street is an important fixture in how Chinatown functions.

 

The Tourist Experience(Field Note #2)

During my second traipse through Chinatown, I wanted to get the true tourist experience. Many tour guides have all of the hotspots to get the “Chinatown Experience” and I intended to go all the way through. I started with the Manhattan House of Detention. Because the building was built to resemble an Egyptian mausoleum, the jail came to be called “The Tombs”. The original building was torn down and eventually a new modern Manhattan House of Detention was erected. It is still referred to as “the Tombs” by attorneys and prosecutors today.

 

After some time walking, I arrived at Columbus Park.

Many elderly Chinese people come to play cards and mahjong there.  During busy hours, you’re more likely to hear musicians singing traditional Chinese songs and playing lutes. Early in the mornings you may even spot a group of people doing tai-chi. The area where the park stands now and the surrounding streets was known as Five Points, an infamous, crime-ridden slum depicted in the book and movie Gangs of New York.  Using the map provided to me by a guide, I arrived at the Church of the Transfiguration (at the corner of Mosco and Mott Sts.).

This multi-denominational, multi-lingual church has served immigrants here for more than two centuries. The building was erected in 1801 by a Lutheran congregation. The church is still Roman Catholic but its congregation is mainly Chinese making it one of the largest Chinese Roman Catholic congregation in the Western world.  Sermons are held in English as well as two dialects of Chinese, Mandarin and Cantonese.

 

Aji Ichiban Candy Store 37 Mott Street

Despite the Japanese name, this Chinese chain of candy stores sells hundreds of kinds of Asian and Western candies and dried fruits, nuts, jerky, seafood and a fabulous selection of all things gummy! There are small sample dishes next to most items – I would ecommend you sample the pre-served rose petal, a wasabi peanut and the candied baby-crab.

Pell Street

This narrow colorful street, lined with 100 year old brick tenement apartment buildings, small storefronts and awnings and flags with Chinese writing is a favorite locale among photographers and filmmakers, as no street more than Pell screams out “This is Chinatown!”  Due to the numerous barber shops and hair salons, locals sometimes refer to Pell Street as ‘Barbershop Alley’. By the early 20th century, like many of the smaller streets branching off of Mott Street, Pell Street had its share of vice in the form of brothels, gambling houses, gang hideouts and opium dens, two of which were located at 11 and 13 Pell.

Shearith Israel Cemetery

This small, hardly noticeable sliver of land is the oldest cemetery in New York, dating back to 1683. At that time, this area was outside the boundaries of New York proper and thus suitable for a graveyard. Spanish and Portuguese Jews were the original founders of the Shearith Israel congregation, the only one in New York for nearly 200 years until 1825.  Though you cannot enter this tiny cemetery, you can see some headstones with Hebrew writing. This is one of the very few pre-colonial sites left in the city yet most New Yorkers have never heard of it. It is a treasure of history tucked away and should not be missed.