By Ryan Cabrera
It is no surprise that the Bronx is busting at the seams with Puerto Ricans. They live there, they eat there and they work there. But for a long time following the first mass migration from that small Caribbean island, Puerto Rican food has not been very different from the other cheap ethnic foods. The biggest distinction being the large population of Boricuas and their high level of integration into American society. Practice makes perfect and few marginalized ethnic groups have been attempting to blend into the melting pot as long as Puerto Ricans. If one were to enter the Bronx, he or she would discover a seemingly endless supply of eateries. Like many Caribbean restaurants, the food is expected to cheap and quickly made since fast food chains are seen as the competition. As a result, taste is deemed less important than the speed in which the arroz con gandules is thrown into inexpensive aluminum tins. So, it is quickly packed, shipped and eaten without much ceremony. Sadly, the aesthetic appeal of the meal is completely disregarded in the process. Thankfully, Don Coqui stepped in to fill the void left in the market for a more presentable Spanish restaurant.
Don Coqui is a Puerto Rican style restaurant on City Island in the Bronx. It has an upscale feel to it that defies the stereotype that ethnic food is synonymous with cheap and somewhat rushed meals. At this not so hidden gem, the atmosphere is lively. The service is polite and bilingual. While the food could stand on its own merits, there are other aspects to consider. The building rests on the edge of the dock with a spectacular few of the water. Whether you sit inside or out, you can position yourself so that the landscape is not wasted. During the time that the fresh food is cooked up, guests are encouraged to work up an appetite by dancing in the open spaces to the salsa music that can be heard anywhere on the premises. A strong appetite is a necessity in the face of famously large portions that regulars are accustomed. Through all this Don Coqui managed to take traditional Boricua cuisine, throw in some American side dishes, and still hold onto authentic Latin flair. Then, when it is time to eat, the food is served on sparkling white plates that makes its guest feel as if they are about to consume some very classy cuisine. It is evident that the food is prepared with consideration, and yet for all the contrasts to the cheap eats inherent in the Bronx, Don Coqui miraculously refuses to sacrifice its optimal flavoring or add much onto the price.
The Rodriguez family that owns the aforementioned establishment has created its third generation of restaurateurs and the entire business has become a family affair. Beyond the city island location, there are two other sites for Don Coqui, and each is run by a different child of the owner (Jimmy Rodriguez). Jimmy, being the proprietor of Jimmy’s Bronx Café, uses his own past experiences to help guide his children in their endeavors. This tradition of restaurant ownership adds to the culture of the Bronx. It is a representation of thriving traditions and rituals being passed down through the years. With all the forces of Americanization pressing down, Don Coqui continues to endure. Victor Hernandez Cruz’s poem “Mofongo” touches deeply on the subject. “How often do I crave / this sweet concoction, / this mixing of heavenly / ingredients… but so difficult to find / this delicacy in these lonely / highways of gringoland” (Cruz ll. 4-12). It connects the ongoing search that all immigrants partake in as they attempt to find or recreate their own culture in America. Foreign lands can be quite terrifying, and small cultural sanctuaries can be quite comforting to a wandering soul. Places like Don Coqui, as a home to Cruz’s beloved Mofongo, would be seen as a beacon for traditions far away from Puerto Rico. The artwork, music and the food are cultural lifelines that teaches not only memorable, but edible traditions. When assimilation and the securing of rituals present themselves as constantly opposing forces, solace can be obtained in the restaurant’s mouthwatering pernil. Don Coqui’s website even confirms its role in the Bronx’s preservation of culture when it states that the establishment “represents several generations of ‘Dons’ and ‘Doñas’ who have paved the way for us.” Acknowledging their forefathers, the Rodriguez family represents the future for Puerto Rican culture in America.
Operating a successful high-class restaurant is followed by a variety of challenges when the cuisine served is ethnic. The language barrier issues are cleverly avoided at Don Coqui so that those of non-Latin origin would be entirely welcomed. All employees that greet costumers are comfortably bilingual to the extent the accents from each language do not bleed through during conversation. This is a remarkable business strategy that does not exclude English speakers. Thus, widening the potential client base for the restaurant. In “Tostones vs Green Banannas”, Paul Stevens narrated the following, “I found myself translating into Spanish” (56), when describing the time he spent in Spanish restaurants. Stevens remarked on how he was often found himself filling a role as translator when language barriers appeared. Even with this issue accounted for, Don Coqui has more to consider. Historically, American nutritionists have tried, for the last century, to alter the diets of Puerto Ricans. Government interference in the rituals of dinning created a certain level of animosity for Puerto Ricans on “the Island” and in New York. Such battles over nutrition have been catalogued in great detail by Joanna Barszewska Marshall in “Boast Now, Chicken, Tomorrow You’ll Be Stew, which is about the memoirs of a Puerto Rican immigrant named Esmeralda Santiago. In it, Santiago proclaimed that, “Demonstrating their ignorance of local foods, the experts have failed to reform the kitchens of Puerto Rico or change the preference for rice and beans…” (51). After multiple generations, the meals that the American government described as subpar nutritionally has continued to be cooked. Through perseverance, many meals have evolved into powerful signs of independence for Puerto Ricans who have lived in circumstances directly resulting from their migration to or the colonization by America.
The Rodriguez family believes that are following a purpose higher than making delicious Spanish food. Their job is much larger than that, but also makes them smaller players in the grand scheme. Especially for Jimmy Rodriguez, Don Coqui is “a great opportunity to continue representing the Puerto Rican community — the music, the cuisine.” He, along with the rest of his family, understands their business venture to be a tremendous chance to further perpetuate Boricua rituals and traditions in an elegant manner.
