Ma’s Deli and Grocery is a tiny delicatessen/convenience store hybrid located on the corner of 103rd Street and Lexington Avenue, part of the larger East Harlem neighborhood otherwise referred to as “El Barrio,” whose name derives from the predominantly Hispanic populace residing there. Researching the neighborhood of Harlem through its history, its politics, and its demographic shifts has helped to paint a clearer picture of the context in which the business operates.

Ma’s Deli and Grocery is run by Peter and his partner, two relatively recent immigrants to the United States. Peter was born and raised in Nepal, and moved to the United States around ten years ago, where he began working at small convenience stores and later 7/11, where he met his current partner. He currently resides in Queens, and greatly enjoys owning his own business. Ma’s Deli and Grocery has been in Harlem for over forty years, with Peter and his partner taking ownership about six years ago. While discussing the nature and success of his business, Peter alluded several times to East Harlem’s unique ethnic identity, singling it out as an important reason for how Ma’s Deli and Grocery manages to keep operating in the face of gentrification; its business has sustained itself despite the encroaching business of large chain stores such as 7/11.

When asked why 7/11 was not a large threat to his business, Peter responded by saying his products catered to those in the area, specifically the large Hispanic population. “The people who shop there don’t really shop here. We have three generations of people shopping here.” Whereas 7/11 may cater to the larger American public, it does not cater to individual neighborhoods. The typical “all-American” feel of 7/11’s generic products is not quite the selling point in East Harlem that it may be in other areas of the United States and even New York City itself. Ma’s Deli and Grocery continues to do well as they provide products, such as special foods, specifically tailored to the tastes of those who live there. Rather than selling typical “American” products, Ma’s Deli and Grocery caters to the dominant ethnic group in the area. 

Particularly noteworthy are the special sandwiches one can only order from their counter; the sandwiches are prepared and cooked right in front of the customers. These special sandwiches are the cornerstone of the business, what separates Ma’s Deli and Grocery from other small convenience stores, and helps to give Peter and his partner an edge over local businesses and chain stores alike.

The demographics of East Harlem largely support Peter’s business strategy. Currently, the population of East Harlem is 55% Hispanic, though this has not always been the case. Historically, East Harlem was Italian, until the end of World War II when Italians moved out and Puerto Ricans and African Americans moved in. This migration led to the rise of “Spanish Harlem,” otherwise known as “El Barrio” (“New Directions”).  Since the arrival of these new immigrants, and particularly since the Nuyorican movement, East Harlem’s identity has become attached to a Latino ethnic identity. The “Nuyorican,” a portmanteau of New Yorker and Puerto Rican, artistic renaissance, serves as an important marker of cultural identity.

The Nuyorican artistic renaissance movement last from the late 1960s and early 1970s, and was led by primarily first and second generation young Latino adults. During this time, a variety of plays, songs, and poems were produced celebrating Caribbean and Latin American culture and heritage. “We were coming out of the 60’s, and there was a switch from self-hate to self-love,”said Sandra María Esteves, one of the founding poets of the Nuyorican movement (Navarro 2012). “That was an important marker for us. Embrace who we are. That was very different from the messages I got when I was growing up.” In a time of intense racism and xenophobia, non-white Americans were discriminated against. Immigrants, particularly non-white immigrants, were ostracized for their identity and forced to assimilate. However, the Nuyorican movement was important in celebrating the culture and identity of Caribbean and Latino immigrants. Rather than assimilate and feel embarrassment or hatred for their culture, the younger generation fought back with words, pictures, and songs.

  This move towards cultural celebration was an important moment in the history of East Harlem’s identity. Rather than leave their culture behind and assimilate, many continued on their traditions with pride. These feelings are still present today; East Harlem is a markedly Latino neighborhood, though demographics are changing and how much longer East Harlem will be interchangeable with the moniker “Spanish Harlem” remains to be seen. As it stands right now, however, East Harlem is still predominantly Hispanic.

Also worth noting are the many beautiful murals decorating the walls of East Harlem buildings. These murals are distinct and reflect the communities in which they are found. Many feature prominent Latino political activists and important individuals. For example, “Soldaderas” by Yasmin Hernandez features Frida Kahlo and Julia de Burgos, two prominent women activists of Mexico and Puerto Rico respectively. The mural serves to tie the two communities together, providing a united front and acting as a symbol of Latino pride. Other such Latino activists depicted in murals include political revolutionary Ernesto “Che” Guevara and Puerto Rican nationalist Don Pedro Albizu Campos. These murals represent the communities in which they are found and also act as important cultural markers.

Ma’s Deli and Grocery caters to Latino immigrants and the children of these immigrants. By serving food and providing products popular with those of the Caribbean and Latin America, this business has managed to thrive despite the impending gentrification of East Harlem. Ma’s Deli and Grocery serves a loyal customer base on the fringe of mainstream American consumerism. As it currently stands, Ma’s Deli and Grocery business strategy is well-adapted to serve their clientele. However, this dependence on a loyal, Latino consumer base has some weaknesses. As stated earlier, East Harlem is gradually becoming more and more white. “The U.S. Census population data suggests that Puerto Ricans and Latinos are following the traditional migratory pattern of leaving East Harlem” (“New Directions”). Ma’s Deli and Grocery’s business depends largely on customer loyalty. However, as traditional customers are priced out and gentrifiers move in the business runs into a problem. While the sandwiches are delicious and the products affordable, Ma’s Deli and Grocery does not quite fit into the high-end retail and chain stores that accompany gentrification. What satisfies the residents of one neighborhood may not necessarily satisfy another. Ma’s Deli and Grocery’s abundance of popular Latino products and foods serve it well in Spanish Harlem, but may not have the same popularity in a newly-gentrified East Harlem. When discussing business, Peter admitted to seeing a slight decline; although the numbers are not yet a cause for concern, the trend is worrying and one which threatens storefronts in all neighborhoods of New York City. Ma’s Deli and Grocery currently operates at a crossroads: East Harlem is undergoing the beginning steps of gentrification, but still maintains a predominantly Hispanic identity.

East Harlem is a vibrant and dynamic neighborhood in New York City, with a rich and extensive history. First inhabited by predominantly Italian immigrants, by the end of World War II Puerto Ricans and other Caribbean and Latino immigrants made “El Barrio” their home. The Nuyorican artistic renaissance movement, which celebrated Caribbean and Latin American culture, was a key factor in the formation of East Harlem’s identity. Currently, East Harlem is predominantly Hispanic, and maintains its “Spanish Harlem” identity. This identity has allowed businesses such as Ma’s Deli and Grocery, which cater to the largely Hispanic population, to thrive. However, faced with the first steps of gentrification, Ma’s Deli and Grocery operates at a crossroads. East Harlem is in transition from “El Barrio” to a gentrified neighborhood. Although Ma’s Deli and Grocery’s business strategy has worked well so far, there may be trouble ahead in the future. This impending gentrification is a concern not only for this small business but all small businesses in East Harlem.

East Harlem is one of the last bastions for Latinos in Manhattan. It has been a traditionally working class neighborhood, and many of its people live well below the poverty line. But the status quo is at jeopardy, and its people are endangered by an encroaching threat.

Puerto Ricans have customarily dominated the ethnic background of East Harlem. This has been true for a very long time, ever since a large wave of Puerto Ricans during the Second World War migrated to New York (establishing “El Barrio” as a place for themselves). As a result East Harlem–one cemented as a latino cultural center in New York City–was created. But Puerto Ricans are losing that time-old “dominance” in East Harlem.

Of each census tract, the overall percentage of Puerto Ricans has fallen quite significantly. The trend is somewhat bizarre, but likely attributed to a host of common issues: increasing rents, the influx of new immigrants and young urban professionals, strickening poverty and a lack of opportunity. The population is changing drastically–as suggested by the mass displacement of an essential ethnic component–it is a wonder how long the neighborhood’s character will remain until another group converts the neighborhood entirely.

The New York City Community Health Profile for East Harlem remarks that “[a]bout one in eight East Harlem adults ages 16 and older is unemployed,” or about 12% of the eligible working population (King, et. al). Unemployment remains one of the issues that plagues and influences the East Harlem community. The lack of opportunity for the people of East Harlem is severely harming the community.

In 2015, a family of two making less than roughly $15,900 annually could be classified as falling below the poverty line; the same is said of a family of three making less than $20,000 (“2015 Poverty Guidelines”).

In the same year, the economic prosperity of East Harlem has been grim. Above 119th Street roughly 44% of all households fall within the bracket of earning less than $15,000 annually, furthermore, the majority of household at an average of slightly over 50% earn less than $20,100. This section remains the most concentrated area of households earning less than both extremes, but the surrounding census tracts all fall within a similar range of those above 119th Street. From this data alone, it would be difficult to determine the number of households that would be classified as economically burdened, but the Community Health Profile also alleges that 31% of all residents fall below the poverty line (King, et. al).

All the while, as land values in New York continue to skyrocket the lure of redevelopment calls to many property owners. In many circumstances the potential profit from selling their property drives these land owners to simply keep their housing vacant:

[L]andlords are “warehousing” apartments for the moment that a deep-pocketed developer comes along, as has happened in the blocks just north of 96th Street, East Harlem’s southern boundary. In still other cases, it is simply mystifying that apartments would be left vacant for decades, particularly since East Harlem has been a magnet for Mexican and other Latino immigrants, as well as young strivers looking for cheap space. (Berger)

A New York Times exposé delved into the practice of keeping rental spaces completely abandoned. Fundamentally, the idea is to remain unoccupied so that there are no additional hurdles impeding the sale of property to an enterprising developer. However, the drive for immediate wealth harms the community altogether. Low income housing is disproportionately affected by vacancies, working class people are especially hit hard by this trend. And it is no coincidence that the majority of these vacancies are found in East Harlem.

While an influx of an affluent community is a component of gentrification–creating a whole host of new issues for the original community–the process begins with the expulsion of current residents. “Warehousing” apartments is but one manifestation of that process of expulsion.

Economic affluence on the south side of 98th street, and disparity upon its north side. The luxury condominium on one, the housing project upon the other. Upper East Side and El Barrio; Spanish Harlem; East Harlem. This is the stark divide of two neighborhoods, and perhaps even to the extent of calling it a tale of two cities.

But how does the highly gentrified area of the Upper East Side affect East Harlem? Both communities are fundamentally isolated from one another, despite their close proximity. Very few residents of the Upper East Side interact with East Harlem, and conversely, members of East Harlem will likely travel into the Upper East Side solely for employment. Both neighborhoods border each other, but it is as if they were worlds apart. The Upper East Side does not exert an active influence on East Harlem. That being said there is vast economic disparity between the members of each community. The mere presence of gentrification is a threat to the existence of East Harlem.

As the Upper East side continues to flex its political muscle, redevelopment of the surrounding areas will be the policy and motivation for developers and property owners. The conversion of low income housing to luxury condominiums; local enterprises catering to a high income clientele; public services being redirected to accommodate a more affluent community. As gentrification ramp up its efforts and turn its target onto East Harlem then there will be a shift away from a separation of these two communities and towards integration of one unified affluent group–all at the expense of the foundation of the neighborhood.

Will Spanish Harlem become a footnote in a long history of a vibrant neighborhood, as commercialism and corporatism take root through a vicious gentrifying cycle? Or will there be a radical change in public policy–demanding an end to aggressive redevelopment and settling by an affluent community–ultimately protecting economically and politically disadvantaged neighborhoods from exploitation. Perhaps, perhaps not, but for the current inhabitants and local business owners, the future does not bode well.

“2015 Poverty Guidelines.” ASPE. 3 Sept. 2015. Web. 9 May 2016. https://aspe.hhs.gov/2015-poverty-guidelines

Berger, Joseph. “In East Harlem, ‘Keep Out’ Signs Apply to Renters.” The New York Times. 30 Oct 2011. Web. 30 May 2016. http://www.nytimes.com/2011/10/31/nyregion/east-harlem-landlords-keep-apartments-sealed-up.html?_r=0

“Hispanic or Latino: Puerto Rican, 2000.” Map. Social Explorer, n.d. Web. 9 May 2016.

“Households Earning Less than $15,000, 2014.” Map. Social Explorer, n.d. Web. 9 May 2016.

“Households Earning than $20,000, 2014.” Map. Social Explorer, n.d. Web. 9 May 2016.

King L, Hinterland K, Dragan KL, Driver CR, Harris TG, Gwynn RC, Linos N, Barbot O, Bassett MT. Community Health Profiles 2015, Manhattan Community District 11: East Harlem; 2015; 11(59):1-16. Web. 9 May 2016. https://www1.nyc.gov/html/doh/downloads/pdf/data/2015chp-mn11.pdf

Navarro, M. “The Poetry of the Nuyorican Experience; Writers Following in the Literary Tradition of Miguel Piñero Thrive in a Poets’ Cafe.” The New York Times. 2 Jan 2002. Web. 30 May 2016. http://www.nytimes.com/2002/01/02/books/poetry-nuyorican-experience-writers-following-literary-tradition-miguel-pinero.html?pagewanted=all

New Directions: A 197-A Plan for Manhattan Community District 11. http://www.east-harlem.com/cb11_197A_history.htm

NYC Planning: Census FactFinder. Census Tract 166, East Harlem South. 2010 Census Profile. http://maps.nyc.gov

“Persons of Spanish Origin: Puerto Rican, 1980.” Map. Social Explorer, n.d. Web. 9 May 2016.