Tecautl Collection, 2020 – Rick Owens
Throughout human history, our sense of fashion has been a major part of our story that, throughout societies and generations, has changed and molded itself around the attitudes and cultures of its time. What we wear isn’t just about how we want to look, rather it is about what we want others to see about us. Whether or not that interpretation comes across, is left to the eyes and minds of others. Understanding this has led many to look at art and fashion as the same, as models walk down runways wearing designs that make statements about everything from global issues to subtle expressions of appreciation. Rick Owens’ 2020 Tecuatl collection is an example of this subtlety through unique fashion design and small references to both cultures and issues that he cares about.
While at the Food and Fashion exhibit at the FIT Museum, an ensemble from Rick Owens’ Tecautl Collection caught my eye. The ensemble was a dark outfit showing off a mix of formal and practical attire that blurs the line between being a statement and an outfit anyone could wear for a day. A beige United Farm Workers (USW) shirt is tucked into a black utilitarian jumpsuit zipped only up to the waist, leaving the rest to hang, while atop said shirt is a black blazer. When reading the description for the ensemble, I learned about Rick Owens’ inspiration for his aesthetic and what he values, which is the Native-Mexican heritage that led him to use the UFW shirt to articulate the significance of immigrant farm workers. Although quite abstract, the ensemble, to me, did come across as representing these things. The utilitarian jumpsuit is something that a laborer might wear every day, and the UFW shirt features an Eagle Mark logo that references Aztec design. The blazer was a confusing addition to me, but I interpret it as an antagonistic piece to the jumpsuit that emphasizes success and power. The commentary this piece offers then seems to be about not just Rick Owens’ heritage and bringing up immigrant farm workers, but truly wants to represent both their heavy labor and great success, since they have contributed greatly to our society in making sure that food is available in our markets.
Rick Owens Tecuatl Collection is just one example of how fashion can express cultural representation since many cultures tend to wear certain styles or things that fit them well. Laborers tend to wear more utilitarian clothing, and successful people almost always wear blazers as part of suits. The combination of cultures, especially through a unifying factor as used by the UFW shirt, can show a designer’s origins and who they are, stating their story.
I found your interpretation of Rick Owens’ design choices to be very interesting. I agree on many aspects including the one where you mention the juxtapose between the casual shirt and the jumpsuit. Overall, I found it interesting how you combined the overall message Rick Owens was trying to convey with the design choices made.