Salwar Kameez

Salwar Kameez

By: Neha Mehta

Similar to the sari, the salwar kameez is one of the most popular traditional wear of women throughout India. The salwar refers to loose trousers that stem from the belly button to the ankles, which narrow down like skinny jeans. The salwar is topped by the kameez, which is a tunic top that usually ends right above the knees. A crucial part of the outfit not included in the name is the dupatta or veil, which is draped around the neck or bosom and hangs from the sides of the dress. The style of the salwar kameez has transformed much over time, moving to a more contemporary yet still traditional look. Some of these changes entail varying the length of the kameez, incorporating more elaborate designs and quilted handwork or embroidery, etc. The salwar kameez is fitting to the weather in India because it is the most comfortable form of cultural attire under the fluctuating climate conditions. Compared to the sari, the salwar kameez is suitable to wear both day-to-day and during formal events. It is also much easier to travel and walk in, allowing the outfit to accommodate to varying external conditions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

However, when Indian immigrants arrive in NYC, it becomes tougher to wear the salwar kameez here due to the colder weather, Western fashion trends and styles, and the lack of availability of such garb here in the states. Unlike saris, which remain hidden in the back of most Indian’s closets until the holidays roll around, the salwar kameez have actually successfully been adapted to NYC fashion. In predominantly Indian or South Asian neighborhoods, such as Jackson Heights, women can be spotted wearing traditional Indian garb, with a Western twist. In order to accommodate for the colder weather and Westernized fashion trends, Indian women choose to pair jeans, dress pants, and leggings with the kameez portion of the salwar kameez. Because the salwar or trousers are often thin and incredibly light, they cannot withstand cooler temperatures and often allow cold air to seep through. However, jeans, leggings and dress pants, all Western clothing items, have been created in response to the ever-changing weather patterns, making them a more ideal fit for Indian immigrant women. However, the kameez is made of thicker material and is often similar to conventional hipster clothing in the US. Thus, Indian woman began wearing the kurti or kameez with Western trousers to adapt their cultural wear to NYC weather, allowing them to better assimilate.

This past weekend of 5/1/15 I visited Roosevelt Avenue/Jackson Heights, which has been notoriously called “Brown Town” within Queens. My visit illuminated how the Indian shops and market places that have been established in NYC cater to the varying needs of immigrants and first-generation Indians. For example, many stores that I entered had mannequins wearing jeans and a short kameez on top, reflecting the fused style that many local immigrants wear. A lot of businesses offered only the kurti as an item to wear on other bottoms because it was often the case that the kameez was more in demand than the Indian trousers. In addition, because the kurti is often paired with jeans or Western pants, there are prospects for better profits if a store only sells this part of the salwar kameez.

Interestingly enough, although Indian people love watching films and soap operas, they hate being recorded, so to respect the wishes of the storeowner I spoke to, I translated the interview on paper. Ashish Patel, born and raised in India, came to Queens, New York

in 1985 when he was around 23 years old. For the first few years, Ashish “wandered around looking for a stable job, which was often hard to find because he was an immigrant.” However, his move to Jackson Heights and Woodside provided the impetus for better economic opportunities. Ashish noted that, “In the early 1990’s, there were so many Indians coming into this neighborhood left and right; they began settling down together and soon enough there was a strong South Asian presence in the neighborhood.” When I asked him what motivated him to open up an Indian apparel store he remarked that, “With a growing Indian population, there was a greater desire to move from having cultural items, like clothes, foods, medicine, shipped from India to having these things readily available here.”

For Ashish, clothing was one of the most fundamental aspects of culture and tradition that Indians desired to retain, so for him it only made sense to open up an Indian apparel store on 74th Street. After Mr. Patel elucidated why he thought the garment industry was the best to head into, I asked him to explain to me how he thought clothing functioned in the lives of Indian immigrants. He remarked that, “You can never really separate an Indian person from their traditional clothing. During the holidays every Indian, no matter what age, what part of India you’re from or whether you’re foreign born or born here, can be seen wearing the traditional clothing. And Indians have a lot of holidays, so it gives people here a lot of chances to express parts of their culture. But even during the off-holiday season, you can see people wearing some of the traditional Indian clothing. Like, kurtis are worn all-year round with different American-styled pants. This is not even exclusive to older women and immigrants because there are a number of young women who also come in to buy the traditional kameez to wear. That’s why it’s so easy to stay in business.” My conversation with Mr. Patel, indeed very cute, reinforced certain conclusions that were mentioned before but also provided new insight. He was able to effectively illuminate why Indian clothing stores began to emerge in Jackson Heights and how traditional clothing had been retained in America, more during the holidays but continuously throughout the year.

(For more about how Assimilation for Indians Differs Between Generations, visit: Indian Culture: Differences in Older and Younger Generational Assimilation)