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Trader Joe’s

My family has shopped at Trader Joes for as long as I can remember. More than not do they have the food we need, as they provide it in perfect quantity, and more importantly, quality. Furthermore, they also offer creative Trader Joe specific products that we will occasionally buy because they look interesting. We have never left a Trader Joe’s store disappointed: their staff never falters in their ability to serve customers and their products always cover a wide array of choices. With hundreds of stores nationwide, this private chain serves people of all ethnicities and cultures with their seemingly endless line of products.
Dating way back to 1958, Pronto Markets – which was the name that the small store chain went by before it was changed to Trader Joe’s – came into existence. Only nine years later in 1967 did the one and only founder of Trader Joe’s rename the store’s name to just that. With the name change came many other kinds of changes in how they would run their stores. All these changes lie in their concept of “value”. The formula is simple: “great food + great prices = Value.” The way in which Trader Joe’s obtain their great food and great prices is in the way they bargain with their suppliers (they do not even charge them fees!) for the best possible prices. Furthermore, making their own special products and branding them under their own name helps save even more money, for both the store and the buyer. With these strategies, this small business became one of the best-known grocery stores in the nation.
Without a doubt, one of the reasons for Trader Joe’s vast popularity is its transnational appeal. In addition to being on the list of top three grocers nationwide as a result of their “cashier courtesy, store cleanliness, item availability, checkout speed and specialty department service,” they attract many different kinds of customers from varying ethnicities. One reason for this, of course, is the unbelievable prices within each store. No matter what your heritage, religion, or race is, low prices for excellent products are a great thing universally. However, the more important reason for their transnational appeal is that they recognize and acknowledge the significance of certain foods within a particular culture or group of people. Of their seemingly infinite selection of foods, they have specific sections that are each solely devoted to specific kinds of food. For example, they have an Italian section that attracts Italians (or people who just like Italian food) and serves products typical of the Italian culture such as ravioli, lasagna, and fettuccini. Another example is their Middle Eastern section, which serves a middle east feast (and is of particular interest to me) which contains typical Middle Eastern foods such as hummus and falafel. They also offer Asian, Indian, Mexican, and many other types of foods.
Trader Joe’s makes it rather easy for anyone to find what they need. However, in addition to their culturally specific areas within their stores, there is another aspect of this widely successfully food chain that has transnational appeal: their own, creative and branded products (which are particularly intriguing over the holidays). These are not likely to be found anywhere else, as Julie R. Thomson, senior editor at Huffpost remarks, “Trader Joe’s specialty holiday item game is strong, and trust us, you want to play – and quickly, because these items won’t be on the shelves forever.” Not only do these products save both them and us money, but they attract countless people, regardless of their ethical standing. There’s no real cultural label to these products, and allows them to allure people of all backgrounds. This, in essence, transcends any national boundary on food as it throws cultural, ethnical, and religious factors out the window, causing them to become practically irrelevant. Trader Joe’s own branded products act as a common place in the world of food because it is not exclusive to anyone or anything except Trader Joe’s. Some examples of these (limited, creative, and delicious) products are:

Camembert Cheese and Cranberry Sauce Fillo Bites:

Winter Wassail:

Alsatian Style Onion Tart:

Candy Cane Joe-Joe’s

(“Candy Cane Joe-Joe’s > all other Joe Joe’s” ~ Julie R. Thomson)

Trader Joe’s has gained a concrete status, and subsequently, a concrete role in the larger City since they renamed their – now famous – food chain to Trader Joe’s. The key reason for this is in how different they have made themselves from all the other grocers out there, especially in the City. It has a casual and homey atmosphere, as Noam Scheiber, a writer for the New York Times, tells us that they ‘promote an open and honest environment that encourages questions, suggestions or concerns to be raised.’ Furthermore, he continues as he mentions that employees “remain upbeat and create a ‘Wow customer experience,’ which is defined in the company handbook as ‘the feelings a customer gets about our delight that they are shopping with us.’” Thus, from this, Trader Joe’s has developed a reputation of friendliness in the degree of care they have for their customers. Their desire to meet everyone’s needs and (arguably) more importantly, their amazing prices has rightfully earned them the coveted spot of number one grocer in America for the past four years, and a seemingly permanent spot in the top three grocers nationwide.
All in all, although Trader Joe’s has had some bumps in the road, (as everyone has, both individually and communally) they never faltered in providing their customers with support and excellent prices all around. Catering and appealing to specific cultures they organized specific areas within their stores that are solely devoted to one culture. Reaching even farther, they established their own brand to further spread their name and (perhaps unintentionally) create a transnational feel to their business as a result of their brand being their own and not belonging to any culture. All of their efforts over the years combined gave them a reputation, a name, and a (rather large) following, allowing them to take their place in the city, and across America.

Bibliography
• Noam Scheiber, “At Trader Joes, Good Cheer May Hide Complaints.” Nytimes.com, May 14th, 2017. https://www.nytimes.com/2016/11/04/business/at-trader-joes-good-cheer-may-hide-complaints.html?_r=0
• Sarah Whitten, “Trader Joe’s Dethroned as America’s Favorite Grocery Store.” Cnbc.com, May 14th, 2017. http://www.cnbc.com/2016/04/13/trader-joes-dethroned-as-americas-favorite-grocery-store.html
• Julie R. Thomson, “The 15 Best Trader Joe’s Holiday Foods to Hoard Before They Disappear.” Huffingtonpost.com, May 14th, 2017. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/trader-joes-holiday-items_us_58529d31e4b02edd4115eaaf
• “Our Story.” Traderjoes.com, May 14th, 2017. http://www.traderjoes.com/our-story
• “Trader Joe’s Ethnic Foods.” Vegtj.com, May 14th, 2017. http://www.vegtj.com/ethnic-foods/

Mamasushi

America is known as a “melting pot” of cultures and ethnicities, all thanks to immigration throughout the years. As people move here, they either try to hold on to their culture and ethnicity as long as they are able to or try to assimilate into the dominate culture, completely changing from who they were back home to fit in with the crowd. This can cause a fusion of cultures, which is the reason for the term “melting pot”. One of the biggest ways this is fusion is truly evident, is through food.

Many immigrants try to preserve their culture through food but sometimes they unintentionally fuse traditions. This is can be seen in Chinese American food, where it started out as a way for Chinese immigrants in America to have a place to enjoy food from home and talk to other Chinese immigrants while here doing back-breaking labor. Then they started to see that their food from home was starting to become “trendy” and Americans would start to come in. Americans would want the food to be prepared differently, such as having less spices. The Chinese saw how many Americans would come to try the food, so they began changing the traditional recipes in order to please the Americans. They began frying more meats and making their food saltier or sweeter. They began making more “Chinese-American” food such as chop suey and General Tso’s chicken. The Chinese also had to work with the ingredients that they were given, and began using them as a replacement. For example, broccoli is a very common ingredient, even though it is not Chinese and the people there have no idea what broccoli is.

Another example is Indo-Chinese food, which is a common cuisine that is seen in Kolkutta, India. Here, there is a rather large amount of Chinese people emigrating there. Because of this, the two cultures began to combine together. It has only just recently made its way to America.  Indo-Chinese cuisine is a cuisine that features a mixture between the two cultures that includes Hakka lo mien noodles and Chinese idli.

Chinese Idli

Inwood, a neighborhood in the northern area of Manhattan is an area known for their crime rates. This is slowly changing as it becomes more and more gentrified. Now, it is actually one of the safest neighborhoods in Manhattan. After gentrification, Inwood and Dyckman street have become hotspots for new and trendy places to eat, shop, etc.  According to the New York Times, “Inwood is always on the brink of coolness”.  Susana Osorio, a restaurateur, wanted to bring Japanese food and culture to a mostly Dominican populated area. She began experimenting with mixing and fusing the two cultures together. The result shocked them because it actually worked. What she came up with was Mamasushi, a partly Dominican, partly Japanese restaurant famous for their “Hot Mama Roll”. This roll includes plantains, jalapenos, eel and tuna. Other menu items include yucca fries, a rice and bean roll, and popcorn chicarron.Now, their restaurant brings in customers from all over the world, curious as to how two seemingly different cuisines are able to work in harmony.

 

Mamasushi, along with other new and trendy fusion restaraunts try to infuse one culture into another. Sometimes it is by necessity, as with Chinese American food, while other times it is for pure curiosity, like with Mamasushi.

 

Bibiliography

 

Hughes, C. “Inwood: Always On The Brink Of Coolness”. Nytimes.com. N.p., 2014. Web. 1 May 2017.

 

Rude, Emelyn. “A Very Brief History Of Chinese Food In America”. Time.com. N.p., 2017. Web. 1 May 2017.

 

Shaftel, David. “Indo-Chinese Food Is Hard To Find, Except In New Jersey”. Nytimes.com. N.p., 2017. Web. 1 May 2017.

A Symbol of High Class Ethnic Food

By Ryan Cabrera

It is no surprise that the Bronx is busting at the seams with Puerto Ricans. They live there, they eat there and they work there. But for a long time following the first mass migration from that small Caribbean island, Puerto Rican food has not been very different from the other cheap ethnic foods. The biggest distinction being the large population of Boricuas and their high level of integration into American society. Practice makes perfect and few marginalized ethnic groups have been attempting to blend into the melting pot as long as Puerto Ricans. If one were to enter the Bronx, he or she would discover a seemingly endless supply of eateries. Like many Caribbean restaurants, the food is expected to cheap and quickly made since fast food chains are seen as the competition. As a result, taste is deemed less important than the speed in which the arroz con gandules is thrown into inexpensive aluminum tins. So, it is quickly packed, shipped and eaten without much ceremony. Sadly, the aesthetic appeal of the meal is completely disregarded in the process. Thankfully, Don Coqui stepped in to fill the void left in the market for a more presentable Spanish restaurant.

Don Coqui is a Puerto Rican style restaurant on City Island in the Bronx. It has an upscale feel to it that defies the stereotype that ethnic food is synonymous with cheap and somewhat rushed meals. At this not so hidden gem, the atmosphere is lively. The service is polite and bilingual. While the food could stand on its own merits, there are other aspects to consider. The building rests on the edge of the dock with a spectacular few of the water. Whether you sit inside or out, you can position yourself so that the landscape is not wasted. During the time that the fresh food is cooked up, guests are encouraged to work up an appetite by dancing in the open spaces to the salsa music that can be heard anywhere on the premises. A strong appetite is a necessity in the face of famously large portions that regulars are accustomed. Through all this Don Coqui managed to take traditional Boricua cuisine, throw in some American side dishes, and still hold onto authentic Latin flair. Then, when it is time to eat, the food is served on sparkling white plates that makes its guest feel as if they are about to consume some very classy cuisine. It is evident that the food is prepared with consideration, and yet for all the contrasts to the cheap eats inherent in the Bronx, Don Coqui miraculously refuses to sacrifice its optimal flavoring or add much onto the price.

The Rodriguez family that owns the aforementioned establishment has created its third generation of restaurateurs and the entire business has become a family affair. Beyond the city island location, there are two other sites for Don Coqui, and each is run by a different child of the owner (Jimmy Rodriguez). Jimmy, being the proprietor of Jimmy’s Bronx Café, uses his own past experiences to help guide his children in their endeavors. This tradition of restaurant ownership adds to the culture of the Bronx. It is a representation of thriving traditions and rituals being passed down through the years. With all the forces of Americanization pressing down, Don Coqui continues to endure. Victor Hernandez Cruz’s poem “Mofongo” touches deeply on the subject. “How often do I crave / this sweet concoction, / this mixing of heavenly / ingredients… but so difficult to find / this delicacy in these lonely / highways of gringoland” (Cruz ll. 4-12). It connects the ongoing search that all immigrants partake in as they attempt to find or recreate their own culture in America. Foreign lands can be quite terrifying, and small cultural sanctuaries can be quite comforting to a wandering soul. Places like Don Coqui, as a home to Cruz’s beloved Mofongo, would be seen as a beacon for traditions far away from Puerto Rico. The artwork, music and the food are cultural lifelines that teaches not only memorable, but edible traditions. When assimilation and the securing of rituals present themselves as constantly opposing forces, solace can be obtained in the restaurant’s mouthwatering pernil. Don Coqui’s website even confirms its role in the Bronx’s preservation of culture when it states that the establishment “represents several generations of ‘Dons’ and ‘Doñas’ who have paved the way for us.” Acknowledging their forefathers, the Rodriguez family represents the future for Puerto Rican culture in America.

Operating a successful high-class restaurant is followed by a variety of challenges when the cuisine served is ethnic. The language barrier issues are cleverly avoided at Don Coqui so that those of non-Latin origin would be entirely welcomed. All employees that greet costumers are comfortably bilingual to the extent the accents from each language do not bleed through during conversation. This is a remarkable business strategy that does not exclude English speakers. Thus, widening the potential client base for the restaurant. In “Tostones vs Green Banannas”, Paul Stevens narrated the following, “I found myself translating into Spanish” (56), when describing the time he spent in Spanish restaurants. Stevens remarked on how he was often found himself filling a role as translator when language barriers appeared. Even with this issue accounted for, Don Coqui has more to consider. Historically, American nutritionists have tried, for the last century, to alter the diets of Puerto Ricans. Government interference in the rituals of dinning created a certain level of animosity for Puerto Ricans on “the Island” and in New York. Such battles over nutrition have been catalogued in great detail by Joanna Barszewska Marshall in “Boast Now, Chicken, Tomorrow You’ll Be Stew, which is about the memoirs of a Puerto Rican immigrant named Esmeralda Santiago. In it, Santiago proclaimed that, “Demonstrating their ignorance of local foods, the experts have failed to reform the kitchens of Puerto Rico or change the preference for rice and beans…” (51). After multiple generations, the meals that the American government described as subpar nutritionally has continued to be cooked. Through perseverance, many meals have evolved into powerful signs of independence for Puerto Ricans who have lived in circumstances directly resulting from their migration to or the colonization by America.

The Rodriguez family believes that are following a purpose higher than making delicious Spanish food. Their job is much larger than that, but also makes them smaller players in the grand scheme. Especially for Jimmy Rodriguez, Don Coqui is “a great opportunity to continue representing the Puerto Rican community — the music, the cuisine.” He, along with the rest of his family, understands their business venture to be a tremendous chance to further perpetuate Boricua rituals and traditions in an elegant manner.

The Rise of Halal Carts in NYC’s Streets

Nira Rahman

In recent years, it seems as though every street corner in New York City has a halal cart. Although originally created to cater to the city’s large Muslim population, halal carts are also enjoyed by non-Muslims including businessmen, students, children, and even tourists visiting New York. The phenomenon began in the late nineties when there was a huge demand for halal street food which, at the time, was a culinary niche just waiting to be filled.  This resulted in the appearance of halal hot dog stands which provided fast and simple food for people on the go. Soon the hot dog stands were replaced by halal food trucks with the goal of providing a full meal to the city’s taxi drivers whose numbers increased from about 400 to 3,900 during the mid-nineties. These taxi drivers worked late into the night with 12 hour shifts and needed the food to continue their work, and since many were immigrants from Bangladesh or Pakistan, or Muslim majority countries, the halal cart was born.

A number of halal carts scattered throughout Manhattan.

The term halal is an Arabic word that refers to anything that follows the teachings of the Quran, or the holy book of Islam. A Muslim’s behavior and actions can be considered halal and this idea transcends to food or more specifically, meat. When an animal is slaughtered according to the proper Islamic guidelines, it is deemed to be halal. For instance, the animal can be a cow, sheep, lamb, goat, chicken, or camel. If it is a pig, it is not halal. Before and during the time of slaughter the animal must be isolated from the rest of the group and the entire process should be as quick as possible to reduce its pain. Furthermore, a set of prayers should be recited. Once all of these conditions are met, the meat is considered to be halal. All of the meat that is used to create the dishes in the halal carts follow these guidelines. Thus, one of the most popular food trends in recent years can be directly connected to an Islamic tradition or ritual.

Although halal carts are served by Muslims and they advertise the same dishes, there is still a diverse style in the preparation of the dishes that are sold. The most popular ones include chicken or lamb over rice and gyros with white and red sauce to top it all off. These dishes have some Egyptian and Greek influences. For example, the red sauce is comparable to the Egyptian harissa sauce and gyros are a well-known Greek food. Despite this, vendors still experiment with the menu. In Jackson Heights, for instance, there is a large Bangladeshi population, so these same dishes may include a different set of spices such as cardamom and turmeric or cilantro that gets mixed in with the meat. The red sauce may be spicier with an extra addition of chili powder. These variations represent diversity even within the Muslim immigrant population of New York.

Lamb over rice with white and red sauce.

The most well-known halal cart is The Halal Guys, and its popularity developed into what is best described as a franchise. The original founders of the group are Mohamed Abouelenein, Ahmed Elsaka, and Abdelbaset Elsayed who signed a contract with Fransmart, a consulting firm for restaurants. Fransmart is known for creating franchises out of Five Guys and Qdoba. The Halal Guys became popular not solely from this business deal, but also because of the preparation of the food which is different from other halal carts. For instance, the chicken and rice is served in round, foil containers unlike the usually rectangular, Styrofoam containers and the sauces are served in individual packets similar to condiments served in common fast-food chains. Furthermore, the meat is more finely chopped than other carts where the pieces tend to be bigger. The most notable difference of all is the fact that The Halal Guys boast their own logos which mark their carts, shirts, and the plastic bags customers carry their food in.

A Halal Guys street cart on 53 St. and 7th Ave.

The popularity of halal carts has even raised a debate of whether or not halal food, specifically halal meat, should be served in New York City’s public schools. Proponents of this issue, including individuals such as Councilman Rafael Espinal, argue that Muslims comprise a large portion of the student body and many students skip lunch in school because it does not satisfy their dietary restrictions. In addition, schools were losing money because the uneaten lunches get thrown out. This view led to the introduction of legislation that permits schools to add halal food into their menus. On the other hand, those who are against this measure, state that public institutions that fulfill the needs of a group, especially a religious one, are violating the establishment and equal protection clauses of the First Amendment in the Constitution. In other words, by allowing schools to serve halal food, the education system is not separating religion from public affairs and is favoring one religion over another. Since both arguments were sound, later legislation also mandated that public schools also serve kosher food to cater to the needs of multiple groups within the student body.

Rafael Espinal, a NYC councilman who advocates for public schools to serve halal food.

All in all, halal carts began as a means of supporting New York City’s Muslim immigrant population. Its popularity allowed for vendors to experiment with common halal cart dishes and even for some, such as The Halal Guys, to turn themselves into a franchise which serves a wider and more diverse population. The reputation of halal food also raised awareness on the dietary restrictions of Muslim students in New York’s public schools, which prompted city officials to draft legislation that better fit their needs. The most astonishing aspect of this trend is how the food was able to bridge a seemingly obscure tradition with the wider population of New York which contains both Muslims and non-Muslims.

Bibliography

Danovich, Tove. “Street Meat: The Rise of NYC’s Halal Cart Culture.” Eater. Eater, 10 July 2015. Web. 01 May 2017.

Markind, Johanna. “Federal Government Subsidizes Halal Food in Public Schools.” Middle East Forum. The Middle East Forum, 28 Aug. 2015. Web. 01 May 2017.

Vadukul, Alex. “The Halal Guys: Cashing In on Street Cred.” The New York Times. The New York Times, 13 June 2014. Web. 01 May 2017.

 

 

 

Family Owned Restaurants and changing demographics in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn

Jonah Green

 

 

Website Project : Family owned restaurants and neighborhood change in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn

New York City is a city made up of many different neighborhoods and many different ethnic groups. Every neighborhood has a different ethnic makeup and social status associated with it which constantly changes due to factors such as immigration and internal migration. One such neighborhood that this has occurred in is Bensonhurst, which is located in the borough of Brooklyn. Bensonhurst has experienced a change in ethnic composition that can be seen by looking at some family-owned restaurants in the neighborhood.

Bensonhurst is a neighborhood that’s ethnic composition has changed in recent years. Historically, Bensonhurst has been a middle-class Italian-American neighborhood. This neighborhood was mainly Italian-American since the late 1800s, when the neighborhood came into being. Today, even though the area has become much more diverse, the neighborhood still retains a strong Italian-American community and is even known as Brooklyn’s Little Italy. The current demographics of Bensonhurst are “48% white, 36% Asian, 13% Hispanic, 1% Black, [and] 1% Other.” (NYC.gov) with the most prominent ethnic groups being Italian-Americans and Chinese-Americans, but also has significant populations of other ethnic groups such as “Russians, Poles, and immigrants from Latin America and the Middle East.” (Mooney).

Spumoni Gardens is a family owned and operated Italian restaurant in the Bensonhurst section of Brooklyn which opened in 1939. This restaurant was founded by an Italian immigrant named Ludovico Barbati.  Since then, the ownership of the restaurant has been passed down for multiple generations and still maintains its authenticity. This restaurant still stays true to the Barbati family’s Italian roots no matter how many generations they are removed from the original Italian immigrants in their family. From the example of Spumoni Gardens, it is evident that a restaurant can remain successful by staying true to its roots and not commercializing. In addition, Spumoni Gardens is a restaurant that is known for its square pizza by all Brooklynites and most other New York City residents. Moreover, the cuisine of this restaurant represents the historical makeup of this neighborhood because Bensonhurst is a historically Italian-American neighborhood, even though that does not still hold true today. Currently, Bensonhurst is a melting pot of people of many different nationalities such as Italian and Chinese.

This restaurant still has strong ties to the neighborhood of Bensonhurst even though the ethnic composition of this neighborhood has changed. Today, people of all different races and nationalities go to Spumoni Gardens to either get Italian food such as pizza, or desserts such as Italian ices. This restaurant serves as a place where family and friends can either sit down and have a nice dinner or sit in the outdoor section and socialize with friends while eating good Italian food. When you go to this restaurant, you see all different kinds of people eating side by side, and often even at the same table. This is a fine representation of the neighborhood of Bensonhurst because although there was initially backlash by the Italians towards people of other races and nationalities entering the neighborhood, today everyone gets along and views themselves almost like family because they all live side by side in the same community.

Today, Bensonhurst is dotted with numerous Chinese takeout restaurants. These restaurants such as Panda Chinese restaurant in Bensonhurst represent the growing Chinese-American population of Bensonhurst. In these Chinese takeout restaurants, Chinese immigrants serve Chinese-American food to the people of Bensonhurst. Chinese-American foods resulted from a combination of a variety of influences. Throughout the many time periods during which the Chinese were immigrating to America, Chinese immigrants have originated from many different provinces in China such as Guangdong, Shanghai, and Fujian. These regions of China all have distinct cuisines, which is why there are now different forms of Chinese food available in the United States depending on which area of the country a person goes to. In addition, Chinese immigrants working in the restaurant business need to appeal to American audiences, which has led to the creation of American-Chinese food, which differs, significantly from traditional Chinese cuisine. Instead of cooking traditional Chinese dishes, Chinese restaurants often make food that appeals to the culinary tastes of Americans. For example, Chinese restaurants in America serve dishes like Chicken and Broccoli, which are food items that would never be found in China. Also, many Chinese-American eateries will serve foods that have absolutely no Chinese influences, such as fried chicken and French fries, simply because that’s what they believe that their American consumers would like to eat. This Chinese-American food also represents a large portion of the current demographics of Bensonhurst because Chinese-Americans are the second largest ethnic group in Bensonhurst after Italian-Americans, and the neighborhood even houses one of Brooklyn’s many Chinatowns.

These Chinese takeout restaurants are also of great value to the community. These Chinese takeout restaurants provide a quick and inexpensive option for either lunch or dinner for many people in the neighborhood.  Also, these Chinese restaurants provide a source of income for Chinese immigrants that they might not have been able to attain through other businesses, and has helped the Chinese-American community fit in the neighborhood. These Chinese takeout restaurants have helped Chinese-Americans fit into the neighborhood because if you frequently attend a restaurant owned by people of a specific ethnic group, and you enjoy the food as well as the price of the food, then you will most likely be happier about having people of this ethnic group living in your neighborhood. By cooking tasty inexpensive meals for the families that live in the neighborhood, it’s almost like they have become part of the “family” of the community.

A neighborhood’s ethnic makeup changes throughout history especially in a city as diverse as New York. Family-owned restaurants are a good indicator of the ethnic makeup of a neighborhood because they are usually owned by families that live in the neighborhood, and the type of food served will tell you something about their ethnic background. The restaurants that I have chosen to look at in Bensonhurst (Spumoni Gardens and Chinese takeout restaurants) really exemplify the ethnic background of this changing neighborhood which was historically Italian-American, but is now mainly Italian-American and Chinese-American with smaller sprinklings of other ethnic groups. These restaurants become large parts of the communities since they are places that families eat, hang out in, or both which allows ethnic groups to gain ground in the neighborhood through the serving of their ethnic food in restaurants.

 

 

Citations

“Bensonhurst Two Albanians and a Jew Go to 86th Street.” Bensonhurst. N.p., n.d. Web. 15 May 2017. <https://eportfolios.macaulay.cuny.edu/peoplingofbensonhurst/>.

Mooney, Jake. “Real Estate Accessible, From All 4 Corners of the World.” The New York Times. The New York Times, 18 Nov. 2011. Web. 15 May 2017.

Robins, Liz. “With an Influx of Newcomers, Little Chinatowns Dot a Changing Brooklyn.” The New York Times. The New York Times, 15 Apr. 2015. Web. 15 May 2017.

United States of America. Department of Health. COMMUNITY HEALTH PROFILES 2015, Brooklyn Community District 11: BENSONHURST. N.p.: n.p., n.d. Web. 15 May 2017. <https://www1.nyc.gov/assets/doh/downloads/pdf/data/2015chp-bk11.pdf>.

Food Fusion in Chinatown

In New York City, Chinatown, is the hallmark neighborhood for diverse and traditional Chinese cuisine ranging from won tons, Peking duck, Shanghai buns, dim sum, etc. It is located in Lower Manhattan bordering the Lower East Side, and contains one of the largest Chinese populations in the Western hemisphere.  The neighborhood began growing in the mid-eighteenth century when Chinese traders and sailors began to settle, they mostly lived in the neighborhood temporarily, but a few did remain to settle down permanently. In the mid-nineteenth century significant numbers of Chinese immigrants arrived due to the California Gold Rush and the building of the Transcontinental Railroad. Historically, Chinese immigrants faced racial discrimination from other groups since they were willing to work for cheaper prices. Thus, other ethnic groups believed Chinese immigrants were taking away their jobs and livelihood. Chinese immigrants often times were pushed out of west by mob violence and discrimination to larger cities in the east. The discrimination made Chinese ethnic enclaves like Chinatown to be more self-serving, and the members in the neighborhood all worked together to provide services to each other including businesses, economic aid, jobs, social services, and protection. Chinatown continued to grow even through the end of the nineteenth century by providing contracts living arrangements like two room apartments that housed 5-15 people.

The Chinese Exclusion Act (1882-1943) halted the growth of the Chinese immigrant population since the federal law barred further Chinese immigration to the United States. In addition, Chinese immigrants living in the United States could not become citizens, Chinese laborers in the United States could not be reunited with the wives and children abroad, and only merchants with special working permits would be permitted entry. The law was only repealed to mend relations during World War II (1939-1945), because China allied with the United States against Japan. Once the act was lifted the Chinese immigrants were given a small immigration quota, and the population steadily began to grow in the 1940s and 1950s. Immigrants took jobs involving restaurants, the garment industry, and the hand-laundry business. As the quota was expanded in 1968 more Chinese immigrants flooded in from mainland China, and the population in Chinatown expanded. Members of the neighborhood also bought buildings with cash for the garment and business industries, and the neighborhood stretched towards Little Italy in the north. As a result, Chinatown is the tightly packed neighborhood it is today serving as a residential area and tourist attraction with its many restaurants, medicinal shops, fish and fruit markets, and other businesses that sell Chinese products and goods.

In recent years (2015-2017) there have been new store fronts that have opened in the area, and these stores all concentrate in fusion desserts. Fusion cuisine fuses two culinary styles from different cultural backgrounds to produce new culinary innovations. It is no surprise that these new dessert store concepts emerging in Chinatown are fusing Asian dessert elements such as matcha, black sesame, purple yam, mocha, Pocky etc. with more American elements like Fruity Pebbles, Coco Puffs, marshmallow, Teddy Grahams, etc. Some notable new dessert attractions include Eggloo, Soft Swerve, and 10Below. Each location respectively offers ice cream on a Hong Kong Waffle Cone, special Asian inspired ice cream flavors (purple yam, matcha, and black sesame), and Thai rolled ice cream. The desserts from these locations made a huge splash on social media as patrons shared their purchases on Facebook, Instagram, and food blogs. These food sites have also received extensive media coverage from newspapers and online magazines.

Green Tea Thai Rolled Ice Cream with Lychee, Condensed Milk Drizzle, and Whipped Cream

Most patrons spend on average 1-3 hours on line depending on the location and dessert they wish to sample in order to capture an ‘Instagram worthy’ shot. News outlets such as the New York Post call the Thai rolled ice-cream from 10Below “whacky” and Eye Witness News declared that the purple ice-cream from Soft Swerve was “winning people over in NYC.” However, it is evident from the interviews and missionary statements that the owners of these sites were not merely looking to building their businesses purely for profit by creating these ‘aesthetically pleasing’ or as some would say ‘exotic’ desserts. Mike Tan, one of the co-founders of Eggloo, had grown up around the corner of his new business on Mulberry Street. He reminisced over the memories of his mother taking him to the only Hong Kong egg waffle cart on Mosco Street. The waffle maker from his childhood never showed up again after a one-day absence, and Tan says it “left a void” because it was his favorite treat. He experimented with his friends David Lin and Jessica Tam to create their three flavors of Hong Kong waffles, homemade ice creams, and topped them off with a different colorful toppings including American breakfast cereals. After successfully gaining popularity in street fairs they opened up shop in February of 2016, and soon hope to expand to savory waffles with Chinese sausage or pizza. Tan had hoped to bring an uncommon street food he valued to the streets of New York, and although most patrons may see the dessert only as ‘Instagram-worthy’ the Hong Kong waffle holds a greater sentimental meaning him.

Eggloo’s Hong Kong Egg Waffle Cone with Vanilla Ice Cream, Chocolate Drizzle, and Strawberry Pocky

One of the co-founders of Soft Swerve, Michael Tsang, shares a similar thought process as Tan when developing the concept for his dessert fusion shop. Tsang and his friend Jason Liu took inspiration from the roots of their neighborhood, and developed their first dessert Mott and Mulberry. The fusion dessert holds great sentimental meaning since both the owners were born and raised in Chinatown. The matcha soft serve with crushed Oreos represents the cross section of Chinatown (green tea/Mott Street) and the Little Italy since the shops there are known for their chocolate (Mulberry Street). Patrons can customize and fuse Asian dessert elements like red bean paste, mochi, matcha, purple yam, etc. with Western elements like dark chocolate cones, red cinnamon cones, American cereals, and American sweets. Other desserts on the menu were also coined names inspired from the neighborhood, and initial popularity after their grand opening on December 2nd of 2016 forced the shop to close the next day.

Soft Swerve’s Black Sesame Ice Cream with Toasted Coconut on a Dark Chocolate Cone

Despite the social media frenzy over these fusion desserts for the perfect ‘Instagram-worthy’ post, the founding stories of these fusion dessert places illustrate that the desserts are not merely invented for a pretty picture.  The founders of these concept stores were not purely set out for profit, but rather they wanted to share with other New Yorkers street foods that are uncommon in America. They also developed fusion foods that represented the cross-cultural upbringing of Chinese American individuals, and took inspiration from their neighborhood which has been historically important to Chinese immigrants. The dessert places also provide exemplary sweets from other Asian countries like Japan and Thailand, thus the cultural fusion is not merely Chinese and American. Hence, the founders of these fusion dessert places have successfully managed to connect with patrons that may come from a different cultural background by introducing them to their fusion desserts. Meanwhile, at the same time the founders may also help re-connect patrons from the same cultural background with sweets that they might have enjoyed as a child as well.

Sources

Goldberg, Haley. “The Freaky New Ice Cream People Wait Three Hours For.” New York Post. N.p., 28 Aug. 2015. Web. 13 May 2017.

 

Hobbs, Allegra. “Soft Swerve Now Serving Up Locally Themed Cones on the Lower East Side.” DNAinfo New York. N.p., 05 Dec. 2016. Web. 13 May 2017.

 

Kravitz, Melissa. “Eggloo Is Rolling and Scooping Up NYC’s Newest Ice Cream Waffle Craze.” Am New York. N.p., 08 Feb. 2016. Web. 13 May 2017.

 

Glassberg, Lauren, Eyewitness News, Wabc-Tv, Channel 7, Abc 7, 7online, New York city. “Purple ice Cream From NYC Is Latest Dessert Trend.” ABC7 New York. N.p., 21 Apr. 2017. Web. 13 May 2017.

 

Waxman, Sarah. “The History of New York City’s Chinatown.” The History of New York City’s Chinatown. N.p., n.d. Web. 13 May 2017.

Introduction: Cultural Traditions and Rituals

New York is an amalgamation of cultures and communities that are brought in by the migration of people, domestically and internationally. This creates an environment where multiple cultural traditions thrive, especially through restaurants, food vendors, markets and other food related sites. The traditions change depending on where the locations are and how they are presented. Some food sites stick to tradition and allow the rituals to reach out into other parts of society, while other sites commercialize and change the traditions of culture.  

Puerto Rican and Islamic culture, which are largely prevalent in New York City, are an example of adhering to traditions. The Puerto Rican restaurant Don Coqui takes the typically cheap eat, and presents it in a way that raises the value of the cuisine. Aesthetics are taken into account in a way that is rarely incorporated into Puerto Rican food. Tradition foods are displayed next to more American style food cooked up with Latin flair and seasoning. La Marqueta, a Puerto Rican food market, on the other hand, is a more casual site located in Harlem, where people go to buy Spanish food, traditional Hispanic medicines, recordings of latin music, and supplies for charms and curses. Though not as popular as it once was, the Hispanic community still sees it as an incredibly important place in New York City.

Islamic culture is prevalent in the various halal carts found in almost every corner of the city. These food trucks began as a way to serve street food to the city’s large Muslim population while still fulfilling the religion’s dietary standards. The popularity of halal food not only serves food to non-Muslims but also began the debate of whether or not public schools should offer halal food to its Muslim students. On a more domestic level, soul food allows for the African Americans of New York to connect back to their roots. These roots are based in southern traditions that have been adapted to not only someone’s personal taste but also their environment. This can be seen through the ever popular Sylvias in Harlem which maintains the heart of soul food while adding their own spin. The main spin that Sylvia’s accomplishes is through the unification of several soul food dishes. Through this it represents the whole of soul food so anyone who decides to eat it will understand a wider view of the south instead of the specialties of a region.  

The Italian food market, Eataly, displays a commercialized and mass produced version of the traditions in Italy. In Italy, people typically buy food from neighborhood bakeries, butchers and other small food markets. Eataly, which has multiple locations, two of which are located in NYC, is multiple floors of food vendors that sell Italian products. These products, advertised by Italian celebrity chefs diverge from Italian traditions. The assortment of food offered appeals more to the the customers Americans tastes than appeal to those who search for Italian tradition.

Introduction: Transnationalism/Migration

New York acts as a cosmopolitan city, which brings together cuisines from all over the world. This is manifested through the prevalence of transnationalism, as seen both economically and socially. This phenomenon occurs when a melting pot of different cultures and ethnicities and their corresponding foods are brought together. This is frequent in specific foods that are used in different ways as well as certain stores than incorporate varying foods.   One example of the former is Rice, a staple in multiple cuisines, specifically, how rice is used in ethnic countries vs. how it is used in New York. Additionally the economic process behind importing and exporting the product is different based on where it comes from and where it is sent. Therefore, it shows the way transnationalism plays both socially and economically through both food and the prices behind it.  An example of the latter is the nationwide store chain Trader Joe’s.  While some individual stores are smaller than others, each makes sure to cater to specific ethnicities within the neighborhood they are in.  This is reflective of the trans-nationalistic nature of America because of the fact that this food chain procures food for a wide array of groups of people that go beyond the boundaries of the United States.

Early migration in New York has foreshadowed the modern-day variety of people and foods that continue to mix and integrate. Originally Chinatown was a very popular area that belonged to mostly Chinese people, now it seems like more white and Spanish people live in the area. This concept highlights the importance behind time and change in different areas. Revisions of the neighborhoods evoke response from local businesses in order to adjust to the new ethnicities in the area. The Jing Fong restaurant is the perfect business that demonstrates the migration of Chinese and non-Chinese people in and out of the area. The restaurant offers the authentic Chinese food and the American version of Chinese food on its menu. This symbolizes the effect migration has on the local areas and its businesses. Similarly, the history and culture of the United States and Mexico have long been intertwined since long before the two countries came into their modern borders. Chipotle is an American chain of fast food specializing in Mexican food. Though it is Mexican-style food, it is also an American version of authentic Mexican food. Since the restaurant chain began from a man of non-mexican descent, the topic of appropriation versus appreciation of a culture arises.

Ethnicity and Fusion – Introduction

Food is a component of one’s cultural identity, and it can be used as a medium to represent one’s ethnicity. Much of one’s identity is formed through culture, and a major aspect of one’s culture is food. Ethnic identities are expressed and maintained through dietary choices, celebratory dishes, and ingredients predominantly used in their cultural group. The food that one eats strengthens ties to his/her ethnicity, because certain customs, rituals, or childhood memories are usually food related. Similarly, it also instinctively reinforces a sense of identity when he/she is in another cultural environment. Often, people pass their traditional food to future generations to preserve their culture. As much as immigrants assimilate when they come to a new country, it is important to continue to carry out their traditions. Food, although differs between cultures, is a universal element that binds all humans together regardless of their backgrounds.

New York has historically been known as a “melting pot” of different ethnicities or cultures. The city enables immigrants to introduce their ethnic foods through interactions with members outside of their ethnic group or through the food industry (i.e. restaurants, supermarkets, farmer’s markets, bakeries, etc.). In recent years ‘fusion’ restaurants have been sensationalized  in the city, and social media has aided in popularizing these places. These ‘fusion’ restaurants and storefronts end up with lines up and down the block, and these ‘unique’ foods are intentionally sought after. Restaurant patrons in New York City have the ability to sample foods from all kinds of cultures and sometimes the dishes are cross-cultural or hybridized with American foods.

 

Food & Family NYC Intro

Food is an important aspect of nearly every culture on this planet. When traveling to other countries, one first things people try is food from a local street vendor, or that highly recommended dish on a menu from a restaurant a country is famous for. Food allows you to experience the history of other cultures both past and present in addition to giving you clues about the geographical location, socio-economic status, and cultural norms of a certain region. Essentially, food is a living (and sometimes still breathing) textbook for our pallets that give us readily accessible and interesting information about a culture. Especially if the food is authentic *cue record scratch*…
But what does that casually tossed around word, “authentic” really mean? Is the Chinese food we know as “authentic” actual, genuine Chinese food? As we learned this semester it is only reminiscent of authentic cuisine in fact, and the food you get at your local Chinese restaurant is unique to American culture, so perhaps it is authentic Chinese American food? Okay that’s fair, but what about the Bronx-based Mexican restaurants owned by Mexican immigrants with meals on the menu prepared in the same way it is in their native land, but that same menu now has Chipotle burgers? Can the Mexican restaurant still say they serve “authentic” Mexican cuisine? What about the generational gap between the original immigrants who owned the store and the grandchildren who don’t really want to keep the business in the family? Family plays an important role in all cultures, especially with regards to food, and that is the focus on this portion of our website. Family plays a central role in food preparation, food history, culture, and family owned restaurants provide us with a unique and sadly rapidly increasingly rare glimpse into the intricate balance between the “old” food world and the “new” one.

Victoria, Isaac, Jeremy, Jonah