Sandwiched between a barber shop and a residential building is a newly opened small Indian restaurant (also caters Bangladeshi and Pakistani cuisines) “Khana Peena” which literally translates to eating and drinking in English. Located on Broadway and 64^th Street, Woodside, this restaurant is so small that if it didn’t have a couple of poster of chicken biryani and kebab on the window, most people would just pass by it considering it an extension of the barber shop. Restaurant businesses thrive near cosmopolitan area, where there is a constant flow of people and in that sense Khana Peena is an anomaly- for it functions much like the grocery store on the corner of streets, relying more on dwellers of the neighborhood than on outsiders.

From the inside, the restaurant is not very flamboyantly festooned either. There are four tables, a refrigerator by the corner for cold beverages, and a counter upfront. There is a simple clock above it. No religious symbols decorate the wall to testify its halal status; no Islamic art or paintings hang on the wall. Apart from the front counter, the three walls are covered by mirrors. The wooden chairs and the interior are designed to provide food for people on the go or so I thought. Behind the counter there are trays of food, some common to all sub-continental cuisines like aloo gobi, beef karahi, chicken makni, but some of the dishes piqued my interest. For instance, bitter gourd with beef, okra with potato, and spinach with goat. They were tempting choices, but I ordered my regular, two kebab rolls to go.

I waited for over half an hour, for something that I was expecting to be served within minutes. The clock struck 1 PM, and there were no guests in the restaurant. Naturally, the owner observed my fidgeting, so he consoled me with this remark, “My food is different. It will take some time,” he said. After I got home, my morose mood still clinging on to me, I was delighted to see some coriander sprinkled on the kebab. On the side, he had given me chutney that was far too thick. Well versed with the tradition and custom of this food, I had a vague feeling that this was prepared by a feminine hand. It was presented more aesthetically. Imagine my shock; it was the first time that I had eaten an Indian dish made by a female cook. Here was a restaurant that steadfastly replicated the very miniscule detail of the recipe and preserved it from any adaptation. It truly symbolized authenticity.

Curious as to my claim, I went back and asked the owner if a female cook had prepared the food. And it was no surprise to me when he said yes. What was even more intriguing to me was that he didn’t have any official menu. Apart from some common Indian dishes like pillow, haleem and other such dishes, he said they prepared dishes that are not on the menu everyday. Because the owner, Mr. Sohail, relies solely on the tenants of the neighborhood, his enterprise is geared towards satisfying them. If they demand a native dish that’s not on the menu, he cooks it for them. There seemed a contradiction to me and I just couldn’t wrap my head around it. I was deceived by the appearance of the restaurant. There was nothing in it that would let one to extrapolate its cultural background; no incense, no tapestries on the wall, no elaborate lightning; nothing inside the restaurant gave it its unique identity. Yet here it was catering food that had its unique taste.

More than just a way to assimilate to the new environment, restaurants are the backbone economy of most of the immigrant population. This statement was reflected in his answer when I asked Mr. Sohail why did he take so much pain to cook food in a traditional manner? He told me he couldn’t afford to hire people, so his wife managed most of the cooking. Saddened, but also delighted by his comment for if it hadn’t been for his wife’s cooking, it would have been just another restaurant to me.

Many people have their own version of authenticity. Some believe exotic food to be most authentic, while others would argue against it. When cuisines from one foreign culture crosses over to another culture, they often go through some change. One can claim that that adaptation gives rise to another dish, which has every right to be termed authentic. But for some odd reason, I can’t fully accept this definition, even though I have arguments supporting it.

Although I had to wait to get my food, in the end, I was very satisfied. I would have liked to see some Indian paintings. Maybe even some music so as to have a clear distinction of its identity. But the food was pleasant change and for that, I award it 4 out of 5 stars.

I walked into Vanderbilt Hall on March 8^th seeing Japan Week banners and glowing red lanterns and filled with booths run by travel agencies, airlines, technology companies, food and beverage companies, and more. A theater was set up showing videos pertaining to various topics including landmarks, stories of Jewish refugees, and food. Japan Week was an event held in Vanderbilt Hall of the bustling Grand Central Terminal from March 6^th to 8^th. I visited the booth for Azuma Foods International Inc., U.S.A., a company that strives to mix traditional Japanese food with other food traditions, to try its food.

The booth featured ready to eat packages of calamari salad, seaweed salad, and sweets that looked like sushi.  A man offered samples of the salads to visitors. I took a sample of each salad and tried them in a less crowded space in front of the theater. The calamari salad had small pieces of calamari and slices of mushrooms. It was chewy and sour. The seaweed salad had thin slices of seaweed covered with sesame seeds. It tasted sweet and tangy. There was also a presentation board showing images of sushi sweets, which were mochi, a gelatinous rice flour treat, in the likeness of sushi and sashimi, which usually consist of raw fish and rice. I took a bite of each but I cannot give an unbiased description because I have an aversion towards mochi’s pasty texture and flavor. If the booth had an argument, it would be to buy Azuma Foods’s featured products.

The salad samples were not amazing but not terrible. They had enough flavor but not enough to make an impression. The seaweed salad looked like an unnatural green, and I figured out why once I read the ingredients. There was Yellow #5 and FD&C Blue #1, both synthetic food colorings. Even though the ingredients included red pepper, there was no red pepper in my sample. The crunchiness of red pepper would balance the sweetness of the seaweed. Likewise, the ingredients for the calamari salad included bamboo shoot but there was no bamboo shoot in my sample. The idea to make mochi that looked like sushi was clever. Many New Yorkers are familiar with sushi and sashimi because of their availability in buffets, supermarkets, and restaurants. However, they might have not tried mochi. Thus, they would be interested in eating these sushi-shaped treats.

It was very smart for Azuma Foods to provide pamphlets with the ingredients of the salads to inform visitors that may have food allergies. In addition, visitors who do not buy the salads that day will have something to remember them. Having the pamphlet might convince visitors to buy their products another day. It is interesting how the photographs of the seaweed salad and the calamari salad in the ingredients pamphlet are accompanied by forks rather than chopsticks. The choice to use forks, not chopsticks, in the photographs shows how Azuma Food is incorporating Western food traditions with traditional Japanese food, thus tailoring to its target audience, New Yorkers and other Americans.

People who appreciate Japanese culture will enjoy reading about Azuma Foods. They will learn how the company is introducing Japanese food to other cultures by making it a part of other cultures. Azuma Foods adds to public discourse about authenticity and assimilation by bringing in the perspective of someone who wants to spread the food of its culture to other cultures and make money from that goal. Theirmission to mix Japanese food with other food cultures demonstrates how people can be introduced to another culture by experiencing it with something familiar.

The salads and the sushi sweets are examples. Japanese have side dishes that have vegetables in them but they are not called salads. Azuma Foods produced packages of seaweed salad and calamari salad so people could incorporate it with their food. People can mix the salad with noodles, rice, or even a sandwich. Azuma Foods’s website gives suggestions how to use a product such as placing some calamari salad on a martini. The incorporation of Japanese food with other kinds of food can create a mix that is not completely Japanese. In addition, the sushi sweets bring something unfamiliar in the form of something familiar. Sushi-shaped mochi can be fun to eat. However, authentic mochi is usually round, not in the shape of raw seafood and rice. Even though the salads and the sushi sweets are not extraordinary, I recommend them for the experience of eating and tasting them.

-Virginia

Review of Akbar Restaurant

Akbar Restaurant ★ ★ ★ ★ ☆
Location: Garden City, NY

Food and cuisine often reflect the variety and beauty of cultures. The preparation of ethnic dishes reflects subtle nuances of taste and also provides insights into the culture and traditions of a community. As I entered Akbar restaurant, I was reminded of these various themes. With the aromas of tomatoes, spicy red peppers, and red curry in the air, complemented by the sweet and subtle hint of basmati rice, it was as though I had entered the motherland. With its yogurt-marinated meats, butter-and-cream-enriched sauces, and intoxicating perfume of saffron and tandoor-roasted meats, the Mongul style cuisine offered insights in the foods of traditional Indian culture. While the crystal chandeliers, ornate wall carvings, traditional plates, and carpeting of this Indian restaurant provided an ambiance of sophistication and elegance, it also reflected various family traditions with a highly seasoned northern flair.

To start the meal, a friendly server brought a platter of papadum, a thin, disk-shaped side appetizer made of flour, and garnished with tamarind sauce and mint chutney. Although the service was slow, and it took approximately twenty to thirty minutes for the main course to arrive at the table, it was well worth the wait. As the chicken makhani that I ordered glistened on my plate, its vibrant red color, garnished with green basil leaves over moist white rice taunted my taste buds. As its soft, creamy texture soothed my appetite, it left me craving for more. Pita bread, made from flour and grilled on a skillet, served as the perfect complement to the chicken makhani dish. It served as a neutralizer, clearing the palate from an otherwise spicy dish. Equally inviting was palak paneer, a vegetarian dish. This fresh spinach dish, bathed with cubes of soft cheese, also counterbalanced the strong spices of the main course. Other notable vegetarian dishes included alu gobi (cauliflower with lots of fresh ginger and coriander), and bhurta (mashed, garlicky eggplant). The desert menu also proved to be surprisingly refreshing. The kheer (rice pudding flavored with cardamom) followed the traditional recipes used by many amachis (grandmothers) in India. The soft, white, delicate texture was prepared to perfection. The gulab jamun was equally tasty. These fried balls of condensed milk in honey would have satisfied any person with a sweet tooth.

Combining a complex alchemy of herbs and spices, Akbar provided newcomers with an authentic taste of north Indian cuisine. With contrasts in color, texture, and spice, Akbar provided a delicate balance of flavors, ranging from hot and spicy to cold and sweet. Food was served on beautiful golden platters decorated with elephants (symbolizing Lord Ganesha, the Hindu deity of strength and wisdom). In an effort to embrace the cultural roots of their new restaurant, the owners of Akbar also incorporated intricate carvings of the Indian Banyan tree on wall hangings and on plates in the restaurant. Known for its strength and longevity, the Indian banyan tree is a symbol of immortality and serves as an integral part to the myths and legends of Indian culture. Furthermore, while the food of Akbar remains authentic in terms of its flavor and preparation, it is also the overall ambiance of the restaurant that contributes to its authenticity. The inclusion of the Banyan tree carvings and decorative plates highlights religious and familial traditions, thereby creating an enjoyable experience of Indian cuisine as if it was from the homeland itself.

Akbar’s tradition of fine dining also has interesting historical roots. Originally founded in Manhattan in 1976, Akbar later branched out to Garden City, NY and Edison, NJ, while achieving international acclaim. As Mr. A. N. Malhotra, the original owner, imported chefs and centuries-old recipes from Bombay, he made it possible for immigrants to enjoy traditional specialties that were virtually unheard of in the U.S. until the late 1970s. Through Mr. Malhotra’s commitment to gracious hospitality in the tradition of grand Mogul Emperor Akbar, he created a restaurant that not only catered to the needs of specific immigrant groups but also provided an authentic dining experience. An appreciation of the authenticity of food is important for restaurant patrons. Although authenticity may refer to the quality of food from the mother country and the traditional utensils used to prepare them, it also refers to the interaction between the chef and consumer. As the chef brings his knowledge of traditional customs, ingredients, and methods in food preparation, he shares them in his cooking through delicately prepared dishes. The consumer, on the other hand, brings their own knowledge, based on personal and prior dining experiences, to assess the quality and authenticity of their dining experience. In this regard, it should be noted that the concept of authenticity is one that is fluid. It involves not only the characteristics of food but also the experience of the consumer within the restaurant.

Cultural identity is another important aspect that relates to authenticity. Located in a community predominantly populated by Irish Catholics, Akbar has continued to flourish while maintaining its own cultural roots and identity. By adhering to its traditional menu of foods (not altering it to satisfy the needs of the surrounding community), Akbar has gained a strong reputation for its unique cultural appeal, attracting many newcomers to experience traditional Indian cuisine. In this regard, it is clear that Akbar has not sacrificed cultural identity for economic capital, as evidenced by its variety of food options and interior decor. Furthermore, for the avid food-enthusiasts looking to try new spicy and savory ethnic dishes, I urge you to look no further than Akbar. Although its mouth-watering dishes may cause you to break into a sweat, you will not regret your experience there. The intoxicating fumes of curry and unique blends of spices will leave you craving more. This is a dining experience that should not be missed.

“If our benchmark for Americanness is apple pie, you should ask yourself, how often do you eat apple pie, versus how often do you eat Chinese food?” asks Jennifer 8. Lee as she stumps her audience in her TED talk, “The hunt for General Tso”. Jennifer 8. Lee, a reporter from the New York Times and author of The Fortune Cookie Chronicles, gives a riveting speech on the origins of what Americans think of Chinese food, bringing her research on Chinese food to the table while incorporating history in a manner that captivates her audience.

Lee reaches out to a wide audience, ranging from scholars and academics whom are familiar with the subject to both scholars and non-scholars whom are not familiar with the topic. She approaches her wide audience by discussing well-known Chinese food items such as fortune cookies, General Tso’s chicken, and chop suey and uses them as a medium to discuss the evolving perception of Chinese immigration since the 1850s into America and the acculturation of Chinese food into American culture.

Lee makes it clear that the purpose of her talk was “to make people think twice” when they eat Chinese food, but ultimately ends up proving more than that. She takes into account the experiences of Chinese and Americans’, both past and present, and their takes on present-day Chinese food to show the relationship between Chinese assimilation/immigration to America and the changes in Chinese food. She covers the details behind each of the food items she talks about, using historical evidence, such as fortune cookies and their Japanese origins, anecdotes, chop suey as a defense mechanism for anti-Chinese immigration during the late 19^th and 20^th century, and interviews, such as displaying the reaction of the creator of General Tso’s chicken on his product today (in short, he was very disappointed). From there, Lee analyzes how each influenced the other to form our perception of Chinese food today by connecting the lack of authenticity in Chinese food to the acculturation of Chinese people in the United States, changing their traditional food ways into something Americans would find more acceptable, like fortune cookies, General Tso’s chicken, and chop suey.

Lee makes her argument very strong and very clear while providing interesting and compelling evidence. As mentioned earlier, the content of her lecture is easy to understand and easy to follow, with each of her points discussed completely and structured logically. She also does a great job of discussing Chinese immigration and food acculturation both vertically and horizontally; she analyzes both the historical aspects and implications of Chinese food in America and also ties in the present day Chinese food in other countries (virtually every country) as evidence for the Chinese food revolution that not only changes the way people view Chinese food, people, and culture, but also changes the eating habits and culture of different groups of people.

Although her argument and lecture overall is very powerful and succinct, I feel that she overlooked another aspect that could’ve made her argument even more interesting.  She spent the lecture proving and showing her audience that the Chinese food they think is Chinese is really not Chinese at all; she interviewed people in China and showing them what Americans (or rather, everywhere else in the world) think is Chinese food and showing their shocked expressions, debunked the origins of American Chinese food and brought up the different versions of Chinese food in different countries (fried ice cream in Italy, very Chinese!). What if she were to show her audience pictures of authentic Chinese food? If she did, her argument would be even stronger; the audience would experience the shock factor that she displayed with her interviews and learn about authentic Chinese food in the process, ultimately providing a “solution” to the lack of knowledge China’s original food products.

“The Hunt for General Tso” took Chinese food past the initial level of human consumption. It serves as strong evidence for the dichotomy between authenticity and assimilated cultures, with substantial evidence on the differences between the two. It gives the average American an eye-opening opportunity to realize not only the influence of other cultures on their own, but also their own culture on other people. Lee gave Chinese food an identity and showed how the identity of Chinese food changed based on the timeline of Chinese immigration in the United States. Initially, Chinese food was despised in popular American culture, something that was very much influenced by the anti-Chinese attitudes of Americans during the 1850s, to the point where advertisements, academic works, and other media were used to convince the US government to create policies banning Chinese migration. Over time, the Chinese (and Asians in general) became viewed as the model minority and looked upon as favorable to the United States population, and thus influenced the identity of Chinese food. Because the Chinese were now favorable, Americans took Chinese food and made it favorable to their tastes, creating a new Chinese food for the non-Chinese, a strong example of acculturation and assimilation.

Overall, I would rate “The Hunt for General Tso” a 4.5 out of 5 stars; she discussed a topic that others may deem not educational or worth learning about and brought in substantial evidence and research, including things that would be considered taboo, in a stimulating and eye-opening fashion, a seminar worth watching.  Potential viewers should be familiar with both Chinese food and immigration history and should keep an open mind and a healthy appetite on Chinese food and its functionality past the dinner table.

Click here for the link to “The Hunt for General Tso” TED talk 

Samantha Chiu