Sugar Hill is a sub-neighborhood in Harlem’s Hamilton Heights. It is bounded by 145th street to the south, Amsterdam Avenue to the west, 155th street to the north and Edgecombe Avenue to the East. The first non-native settlers in this area were farmers from France, Sweden, Germany, Denmark, Belgium and the Netherlands who were offered the land as a grant by The Dutch West India Company.
With the construction of the New York State-financed Croton Water Aqueduct in 1842 and the growth of New York City, especially the construction of new transportation links such as railroad stations at 135th street and 145th street in 1879, this region began to lose its rural character and was rapidly urbanized. Several rows of houses built in a variety of styles such as Beaux Arts, Queen Anne, Dutch, Romanesque Revival and fashionable apartments described as “French Flats” span across this neighborhood. Soon, it was considered one of New York City’s most beautiful neighborhoods. These buildings attracted middle-class and professional people, mostly Irish, Germans and Italians.
However, during the 1930’s when the Harlem Renaissance was in full swing and an increasing black population occupied Harlem’s housing, many affluent African-Americans began to discover Hamilton Heights. Part of this area became known as Sugar Hill, reflective of the sweet and expensive lifestyle that was enjoyed there. The neighborhood’s most elite addresses were 409 and 555 Edgecombe Avenue where famous African-Americans such as Aaron Douglas, the great muralist; W.E.B Du Bois, founder of the NAACP; Thurgood Marshall; the first African American Supreme Court Justice, legendary musician Duke Ellington and a host of others lived.
Nonetheless, during the 1950’s and 1960’s, flight to the suburbs, poor building maintenance, and abandonment of property contributed to this neighborhood’s decline. However, it still retained its beauty; and in 1974, the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission designated a significant portion of the neighborhood a historic district. In 2000 – 2002, the Landmarks Preservation Commission designated the Hamilton Heights/Sugar Hill Historic district, which honored the architectural heritage of this neighborhood as well as the important cultural, and historical role sugar Hill has played in African-American History (“Neighborhood”).
The total population of the Hamilton Heights neighborhood between 2007 and 2011 was 51,069 with about 12,000 living in the Sugar Hill section; this makes up 3.2% of Manhattan’s population (Lobo and Salvo 60). As of 2010, out of the 12,000 residents, 45.7 percent are black, 10.6 percent are white, 38.6 percent are Hispanic and the remaining 5.1 percent are from countries such as Guyana, China, Jamaica, Haiti, Barbados, Ghana, Guatemala and others (Gregor, par 5). Considering this neighborhood’s Irish, Italian and German population in the 80s, its African-American dominated population during the Harlem Renaissance and its mixed population now, one can rightly say that this neighborhood’s ethnic makeup has changed significantly over the years.
The residents of Sugar Hill today are mostly working class citizens and young adults who take advantage of the neighborhood’s accessible transportation system to get to work and or school. One man, Joseph Moore, who recently moved to this neighborhood from Long Island, said that the easy and quick transportation to his workplace in downtown Manhattan was one of the reasons why he moved to Sugar Hill. He continued that with the express train, he can travel downtown to work in “just 15 minutes.” These workers mostly occupy apartments in the neighborhood with their families. Since such residents leave to work early and return late, the neighborhood is less active during the weekdays. Also, The school age residents in this neighborhood are generally levelheaded and as such, are barely seen when school is in session. Brett Robinson, a family man who grew up in the neighborhood said that all the three children he raised in Sugar Hill have graduated or are in college today. As an African American, he attributed most of his and his children’s successes while living in Sugar Hill to the precedent left by the successful and famous African-Americans who once brought life to the neighborhood. Living where they once lived and hearing about them, he said, encourages you to become more and achieve more in this country where Whites dominate because the lives the lived show you that it is possible to achieve success as an African American.
Housing in this neighborhood is quite affordable, Typically, studios range from $1,350 to $1,700 a month; one-bedrooms from $1,500 to $2,000; two-bedrooms from $1,800 to $2,500, and three-bedrooms from the low $2,000s to $3,500 (Gregor, par 8). However, most houses and apartments are in need of serious renovation. Moreover, there are several buildings in this neighborhood that are being renovated as part of the New York City Affordable Housing project. This should make housing in this neighborhood both up to standard and even more affordable in the near future. Aside from the major roads that run through Sugar Hill making for the easy movement of vehicles to and from this neighborhood, MTA buses Bx6, Bx19, M3, M100, M101 and trains A, B, C, D are available in this neighborhood. The 1 train also runs nearby along Broadway. With his accessible transportation, one can travel from Sugar Hill to almost all parts of New York City within a reasonable amount of time. Furthermore, the neighborhood school P.S/I.S 210, which serves about 468 kids from pre-k to grade 8, was given an overall grade of A by the New York City Department of Education (NYCDOE) in 2013. A dentist office, Rent-a-Center, Foodtown and an assortment of small restaurants, dry cleaners, laundromarts and specialty shops that brings this neighborhood close to self-sufficiency are scattered throughout Sugar Hill. “Almost everything we could possibly want is right available here in the neighborhood or at least close by,” said Mr. Moore.
In terms of appearance, many, including Mr. Robinson, have identified Sugar Hill as one of the most gorgeous sections of Harlem. Marked by graceful row houses and elegant apartment buildings, Sugar Hill’s classic townhouses dripping with Victorian details are a sight to see. A walk through the streets of Sugar Hill takes one on a walk through European architectural history. The houses are built in a variety of styles such as Beaux Arts, Queen Anne, Dutch, Romanesque Revival, Victorian Romanesque Revival and Renaissance Revival (“Neighborhood”). The 12.8-acre Jackie Robinson Park, which has a recreation center, a swimming pool, ball fields, playgrounds and a band shell serves as a major source of relaxation for this neighborhood’s resident. Isaac Johnson, a retired 68-year-old man who was born and raised in Sugar Hill said that his major source of enjoyment living in the neighborhood is this park where he usually goes to swim. Commenting on the neighborhood’s jazz history, he mentioned that several jazz concerts are hosted at this park during this summer to remind the neighborhood of its rich past. Two smaller parks where residents usually sit and relax as well as where kids play basketball and such are also present in this neighborhood.
The neighborhood is also home to the Dance Theater of Harlem, which has classes for residents and also hosts performances. Also, a newly built museum, The Children’s Museum of Art and Storytelling is scheduled to open this year. Some historic and notable buildings in this neighborhood include the Bailey House on 10 St. Nicholas Place, which was built for James Bailey of the Barnum and Bailey Circus, 409 and 555 Edgecombe Avenue apartments where famous personalities such as Babe Ruth, Thurgood Marshall, and W. E. B Du Bois lived and other architectural beauties.
The culture of this neighborhood is really a unique one. Just like Mr. Johnson who said that his parents were the one’s who originally moved to Sugar Hill during the Harlem Renaissance, most of Sugar Hill’s African-American families have been living there for as long as they can remember. Reflective of the time when Sugar-Hill was vast dominantly African-American populated, about five African-American churches are present in the neighborhood and the residents are extremely religious. However, over the past few years, it appears as if this neighborhood’s demographics is shifting faster than census can keep up. Just between 2000 and 2010, the percentage of black residents shrank from 62.5 percent 45.7 percent, while white residents increased from 2.3 percent to 10.6 percent and Hispanics grew from 31.4 to 38.6 percent (Gregor, par 5). This increasing diversity, “is a very good thing especially when it comes to the foods available in the neighborhood,” said Mr. Johnson. To meet the diet needs of this diverse neighborhood, most local restaurants have diversified their menus. Foreign-based restaurants have also sprung up as well. A prime example of such is Mama K’s soups and salads, a restaurant in the heart of Sugar Hill and Mr. Johnson’s favorite spot. Foods served there ranges from West-African stewed beef to Asian sushi, a truly diverse menu. Another example is Tsion café and bakery, a café whose owner traces her roots to Ethiopia. This restaurant serves the Sugar Hill neighborhood with exotic Ethiopian foods ranging from injera rolls with shiro to sambusa with lentils, another reflection of the diversity within this neighborhood. Moreover, The local school, P.S. 210, not surprisingly, was 97% Hispanic for the 2013 – 2014 school year, according to Insideschools.org; a perfect reflection of the growing Hispanic population in Sugar Hill.
When asked what makes Sugar Hill so special and unique, Mr. Johnson, after a long pause, said, “three things: the history, the people and the architecture.” Being one of the most historic neighborhoods in Manhattan, most of Sugar Hill’s residents are aware of its past, which they allow it to affect how they live. Most parents, especially African-Americans have set high goals for their children and themselves as well solely due to the history of African American successes that brought this neighborhood its fame.
Also, with crime at a low due to frequent police patrols and security cameras installed all around the neighborhood, residents are usually outside deep into the night interacting with each other. Since most of Sugar Hill’s residents have been living there for a significant period of them, most residents know each other and share great bonds. As Mr. Johnson said, the streets of Sugar Hill become very lively during the summer. With most residents sitting on the steps leading to the houses and loud music playing from various locations, life bursts on the streets of Sugar Hill. Despite this internal bond, the old residents are accepting of outsiders who move into the neighborhood especially during this time when most of its buildings are being sold or rented and its diversity is increasing rapidly.
As regards issues facing this neighborhood, the major is the threat of gentrification, especially due to the fact that most of its buildings are in need of serious renovation. As of now, this neighborhood’s gentrification is limited to a few sections between 150th and 155th street. However, residents fear that it would spread to the interior of Sugar Hill and possibly threaten to eradicate these old buildings that embody the rich history of Sugar Hill.
Nevertheless, Sugar Hill remains one of Manhattan’s finest when it comes to beauty, culture, history and demographics and its residents are proud to be living in such a “sweet” neighborhood.
