Saranya Radhakrishnan

5/7/2014

Macaulay Honors: Peopling of NYC

Professor Constance Rosenblum

Jamaica Estates: New York City’s Countryside

Since I could remember, my home was never limited to the four walls of my red house. It extends to my neighbor’s backyard where I climbed their cherry blossom trees and across the street to the house where I played with my friends. Even as immigrants, my parents quickly made a place for themselves in Jamaica Estates.

However, this may speak more about the community than my family’s ability to adapt. We were first welcomed by a family who are a part of the Jamaica Estates Association. The Srivastavas were immigrants from India and initially lived in a small apartment in Flushing as a part of a joint family. With the addition of two daughters, Vijay and Sudha Srivastava decided to branch out from the family and find a place of their own. As Mrs. Srivastava claims, “The house came to us, we didn’t come to the house.” When they visited distant relatives who lived in Jamaica Estates, they were persuaded to look at properties in the neighborhood. They enjoyed the picturesque community and decided to become residents when their children felt comfortable as well. They also decided to look into how this gated community was formed.

Before Jamaica Estates developed at the turn of the 20^th century, it was known to be a hilly area covered by glacial lakes and trees. Surrounding these forests were blooming villages that enjoyed the calm and breathtaking land. It was the perfect place to settle considering the feel of the countryside and the close commute to other major business locations. After the construction of the Queensborough Bridge in 1909, two wealthy businessmen took advantage of the situation and bought more than five hundred acres of wooded land. Ernestus Gulick and Felix Isman formed the Jamaica Estates Company and began constructing Tudor-style houses for wealthy individuals who were looking to escape the congested city.

However in the early 1920’s the Jamaica Estates Company declared bankruptcy and left their dreams unfinished. Fortunately, the two hundred and seventy five homeowners in the community wished to preserve its uniqueness. As a result, the Jamaica Estates Association was formed in 1928. The organization resolved to bide by the original building regulations which included only detached two-story houses with attics, no flat roofs and no house costing less than $6,000. Futhermore, the Jamaica Estates Association took an active role to better the community. In 1934, when the city assessed local property owners for the building of the Grand Central Parkway, the association joined a coalition that succeeded in having Grand Central declared as a major highway, paid for by the state and city.

The Srivastava family appreciated how the Jamaica Estates Association continues to meet the needs of the members of the community and decided to participate. It offers an elite security service that responds to emergency calls for members as well as patrol. Even though these services are optional, about eighteen hundred members pay a total of two hundred dollars worth of annual fees. This service was initiated when there was a spree of robberies, however, the security patrol has tremendously decreased the number of crimes in the neighborhood.

However, history records that the members of the organization have not always had mutual interests. Some new individuals of the community wished to expand and modernize their homes while many older residents believed that this would deplete the trees and take away from the unique character of the neighborhood.

For Isaac Abraham, 2,300 square feet did not fit the needs of his family of five so the Abrahams are adding a bedroom and a basement. Mr. Abraham believed his that the expansion was also needed to upgrade the traditional houses to younger tastes. He said he expected the $350,000 renovation to increase the property’s value to $1.6 million.

Michael J. Degnon, who was an integral designer of the original subway system in New York City, also built his own house in Jamaica Estates. The Roman Catholic Passionist priests bought Degnon’s twelve-acre land, which later became the Bishop Molloy Retreat House and the Immaculate Conception Church and School. The monastery was completed in 1927 and the church in 1962.

The Immaculate Conception School at 179-14 Dalny Road is a Roman Catholic school. However, claims to be accepting of any religious student and currently has 420 pupils in grades pre-kindergarten through 8th grade. Although the Srivastavas do not practice Christianity, they still had all three children matriculate from Immaculate Conception in the belief that the school provided a fantastic education.

Across the street is the Mary Louis Academy at 176-21 Wexford Terrace, a college preparatory school for girls that is owned and run by the Roman Catholic Sisters of St. Joseph in Brentwood, has 950 students in grades 9 through 12. Anjili, the oldest of the Srivastava children, also graduated from this high school. “Mary Louis and Immaculate Conception even worked together to make sure that I could pick up my younger brother on time when I finished classes. They kind of looked after us when they really didn’t have to.”

The community’s private schools include the suburban campus of the United Nations International School in Manhattan. Situated since 1982 at 173-53 Croydon Road, the school has 230 pupils in kindergarten through grade 8. “My daughter went there for a couple of years but it was almost as if I was paying for her college education.” Tuition ranges from $10,500 to $11,000 a year.

St. John’s University, which borders Jamaica Estates to the west, offers a large variety of adult education courses. Sporting and cultural events held at the 105-acre campus are also open to the public. However, the institution has been in disputes with the Jamaica Estates Association. When St. John’s began building its dormitory in the neighborhood, many people disapproved. Many individuals of the community believed that the building would exacerbate the lack of parking, create noise, crime, kill the water pressure, overwhelm the sewage system causing flooding, destroy the quiet residential lifestyle and cause property values to decline. Pamphlets and fliers went around to persuade other members to protest. Furious residents shouted slogans and waved signs outside St. John’s University’s gate. Nevertheless the building was justified under zoning regulations and is currently utilized. “ I told my dad that he needed to take the “Say No to SJU Dorms!” poster in front of our house because we would soon be egged by college students.”

As a microcosm of Queens, the neighborhood is ethnically diverse; 45 percent of its approximately 14,000 residents are foreign-born, according to the recent census.

Although modern orthodox Jews mainly occupied the area, Jamaica Estates has progressively seen the arrival of new South Asian immigrants. However, it still has a sizeable presence of African Americans, which makes up over forty percent of the overall population.

“The diverse and tight-knit community has been everything for us,” said Mrs. Srivastava. “It has been our home for more than thirty-five years and will continue to be.”

 

Jamaica Estates may have been created as a beautiful secluded location for the privileged but the founders would not have expected the tremendous affect it would have on immigrants. Unfortunately, many other immigrants have had a hard time starting from nothing in New York City and working hard to sustain a living. However, individuals who immigrate to Jamaica Estates do not start from nothing. They have the welcome and support of the Jamaica Estates Association as well as those neighbors who are not a part of the organization. It provides a haven for arriving immigrants who need help transitioning to American life. Overtime this help forges strong bonds between neighbors are grateful and wish to help others in the same way.

This pattern that the Srivastavas explain has influenced my parents as well. They had lived in a one-bedroom apartment in Jamaica for a few years before they decided on buying a house in Jamaica Estates. In the apartment, my parents kept to themselves. They went to work and straight home, almost in seclusion while living in the middle of New York City. Living in Jamaica Estates was a bit different. My father always boasted about living a few blocks away from Donald Trump’s childhood home. He claimed that the neighborhood is lucky. However, I do believe it was much more. My neighbors were willing to babysit my sister and I if our parents worked late. My father began spending his Fridays with the “boys” on the block. The women next door would come over to borrow onions or any other ingredient needed to cook dinner that night. Jamaica Estates is a community that is quite different from the expected immigrant life. But maybe that is the beauty of it.

It was already nearing 3 o’clock in the afternoon when I arrived at the corner of Grand and Chrystie. The afternoon sun still shone bright upon the clear, blue sky. All around, the markets of Chinatown emitted a vibrant spirit that somehow never seemed to fade. After a few minutes, my feet had guided me to Hester Street. As I walked further down, my surroundings began to change. There were less and less food stalls, and more and more restaurants. The store awnings seized to read Chinese characters, and soon were completely replaced by Italian words. I stopped, and found myself standing in the corner of Mulberry Street. Surrounded by dozens of white people, I now became the outsider.

Left and right, people were enjoying the great weather as they dined outside. I could not help but question the authenticity of these Italian restaurants. Do they still really serve Italian food? Do they even speak Italian? Why are there so many Hispanic workers? It was difficult for me to imagine what Little Italy was a century ago, but I certainly that it was not like this. The only feature that remained unchanged were the tenement buildings resting on top of the restaurants. These were the homes of the first Italian immigrants settling in New York City in the late 1800s. Surprisingly, the tenements still maintained their original façade with very little damage. Most of the buildings were made out of reddish bricks, each a maximum of five stories. Facing onto the street, the fire escapes still hang above the ground floor, serving more as an aesthetic than an emergency exit.

Focusing my eyes back to the street level, I began to walk past the seated diners. It was evident that most of them were tourists. The only New Yorkers on the block were the ones who were walking in a hurried pace. However, it was more to differentiate the real Italians in the neighborhood. The first few people whom I approached were either non-Italians or newcomers. Eventually, I came upon a restaurant called Il Palazzo. In front was an old man, with a full head of white hair. He was leaning upon a menu stand. He did not seem too busy, so I went up to him.

“Hello, I’m doing a school project on Little Italy. Are you interested in being interviewed?,” I asked unconfidently.

Beaming, the old man replied with a thick Italian accent, “YES! Of course! What do you want to know?”

And so the conversation started.

“Well, how long have you been in Little Italy? And how has it changed?”

“I came here in 1964. Big change! I worked here [points to the Il Palazzo] first. And then I worked over down Mulberry, Mott Street… I worked all over! Back then it was old fashioned. Most of the stores were street carts! Have you watched the Godfather?”

I nodded.

“Yes, we sold wine and cheese from carts. In ’75, Chinese move in and Italians move out. Then neighborhood changed. It’s all tourists. A lot of Italians moved to Brooklyn, New Jersey, Staten Island. I moved to Brooklyn with my wife. Where are you from?”

“Staten Island.”

“Ah, so you know. Italians move to Brooklyn, Chinese follow us. My block – all Chinese people. But I have respect for them. Real immigrants have dream, the American dream. It’s tough, but it’s possible. They [Chinese] work hard. My wife taught at a Catholic school. All my kids went to private school. It’s very expensive, but religion is important. You learn values. You leave school, but religion is still with you. It’s sad how they’re closing down. Private schools all over the city – gone – because of no money.”

I thanked the old man and shook his hand. But before I left, I asked, “What is your name?”

In a deep, thick Italian accent, he shouts, “GIOVANNI!”

I laughed, snapped a picture, and parted ways.

Crossing the street to Grand, I decided to explore a corner store. From afar, I thought it was a deli. Once inside, I was greeted with an assortment of cheese stacked on multiple racks and behind the glass. I made my way towards the back of the store where two men were conversing by the counter. Seeing me approach, one of them asked if he could help me.

“Oh, I’m just here to do a school project. Can I interview you?” I said more confidently this time.

“Yeah, I can help you get an A.,” the man said jokingly.

We both chuckled.

“Okay, so how long have you been in Little Italy? And how do you think it has changed?”

“I’ve been here for 35 years. Little Italy is smaller, but not much has changed. I mean, nowadays you have to be millionaire to live here. Most of the original Italian families have moved out, but they come back. Every holiday and Sunday they come back, and they bring their kids and grandkids with them. They show them around and stuff. The tourists are the ones that keeps the neighborhood alive mostly.”

“So how did you end up here?”

“My great, great grandfather created this store. I’m the fourth generation to own this business. It’s the oldest cheese place in America – 122 years. This actually used to be a bar. We moved here from next door. Back the there was no refrigerator. Imagine they see all of this. They’d be amazed to see the invention of refrigeration.”

“How do you feel about the path Little Italy is going? Are you worried?”

“I mean, I think it’s great… to see shoppers, to see people my age coming in with their sons and grandsons. You know, all of the tiles and ceiling are original.”

I looked around. “Wow, they still look great.”

“Yeah, we make sure to take good care of the place.”

“Well, thank you for everything. What’s your name again?”

“My name is Bob. Bob Alleva, like the name of the store.”

I walk out onto the street. Immediately, I thought about how interesting it was to have two opposing perspectives of the changes going on in Little Italy. The more I thought about it, the more it started to make sense. The opinions of Giovanni and Bob differed because of one reason, and that is because each had arrived in different times of the 20^th century. Giovanni came here in 1964 while Bob came here 35 years ago, which was around 1979. According to Giovanni, this was around the same time when Little Italy started to change. Therefore it makes sense when Bob said that there has not been a lot of change because Little Italy already has changed.

The afternoon sun began to set, and the blue sky started to develop a yellow-orange hue. I walked around the block to Mott Street. I remembered what Giovanni said about once working here. The block was clearly not part of Little Italy anymore; it now belonged to Chinatown. Right then, I thought about the New York Post article that made me choose to Little Italy for this project. What it said was true. Little Italy barely covered three blocks.

I headed back to Mulberry Street, but this time I turned the other way. I came across another man standing in front of a fancy-looking restaurant. All suited-up in front of a restaurant with a wooden exterior, he looked up and down the street for potential customers.

Hesitantly I asked, “Hello, do you mind if I interview you for a school project?”

“Yeah, sure. What do you want to know?”

“Anything you want to say.”

“Okay. This is Il Cortile, which means The Courtyard. Established in 1975. Behind the restaurant, there’s little courtyard. You’re more than welcome to go inside and see it. But c’mon, let’s cross the street. I’ll tell you a cool story.”

We walked across the street.

He points at a name located on top of the restaurant building. “You see that? It says ‘Anna Espositio.’ That’s my great, great grandma. She had 23 kids.”

“WHAT? Whoa, 23!?”

“Yep. My name is Sal Esposito.”

“So, Sal. How do feel about the changes in Little Italy?”

“You know, changes are happening. There are plenty of stores for rent. You see this building behind us? We used to own this building, too. Neighborhood is changing. Little Italy is only two and half-blocks. Now, there’s this new neighborhood called Nolita, short for North of Little Italy. That’s where all the yuppies and younger people start to move in. Rent is going up because the wealthy is around us. They’re closing in more and more. New money is buying old buildings. They’re buying the little guys. The rent used to be 7k. Now they raise it to 17k. How can you expect people to pay?”

“Yeah, that’s a high price.”

“But you know what will end up happenin’? These stores of rent…they’ll end up being owned by an Italian. So everything stays Italian no matter what. There was this recent article in the New York Post about Little Italy becoming extinct.”

“Yeah, I read it actually!”

“They got it wrong. Little Italy is nowhere near extinction. They just did that for publicity, for money. Bam! Front page of the NY Post. You know, what people are saying about Little Italy… it’s not bad news. It’s just a bad story.”

“Wow, you’re right…By the way, can I take a picture of you in front of the restaurant?”

“Yeah, sure. Just make sure you can see the name of the restaurant.”

After I shook his hand, he gave me his business card for reference.

It was already past 6PM when I finished my last interview. The three hours I spent in Little Italy has left me brimming with satisfaction. Hearing the stories of the three men has given me a new hope for this New York neighborhood. Although very small in comparison to the neighboring Chinatown, it still thrives. It is still filled with a rich history, which can be found in the lives of its inhabitant and the bricks of its buildings. People, such as the men whom I met, are the very reason why Little Italy will continue to prosper for many more years. The foundation of Little Italy is based on the American Dream, and just as long as this dream never dies, this neighborhood too shall never die.

Northeastern Manhattan from 139^th Street down to 96^th Street, sandwiched between the East River and Fifth Ave, is home to the neighborhood known as East Harlem, or El Barrio. Walking the streets of East Harlem today, it’s difficult to pinpoint the origin of the community; the streets are lined with bodegas and Mexican fruit stands, but in the midst of the dominant Hispanic culture can be found a prevalent black community, as well as the left-over signs of an Italian past; bakeries, streets named after previous Italian activists and celebrated citizens, and the annual Giglio Society festival. Despite such a conglomerate of cultures, the atmosphere is surprisingly welcoming and peaceful. To be fair, the day of my venture into East Harlem was unseasonably warm and the water on the pond in the northeast corner of Central Park was glistening under the bright sunshine. Everyone was out and about, soaking up this taste of summer along with the ices being peddled on the sidewalk. I take a seat on a bench facing the water, next to a black woman in her early seventies, her name Marie. I asked her if it was always this beautiful, to which she replied, “Honey, I’ve been living in Harlem my whole life, and we’ve come a long way, but it didn’t always used to be like this…”

The origin of East Harlem dates all the way back to the 1800s, but its first phase can be summarized as the fulfillment of housing necessity. The area acted as an extension for public housing and offered many community based programs, which appealed to poor German, Irish, and eastern European Jewish immigrants. The beginning of the Italian history can be traced back to the employment of Italian strikebreakers that labored on the first-avenue trolley tracks, many of whom moved in around the seventies. In fact, this was the first official “Little Italy” in Manhattan. The 1900s held tough times of poverty for many in Italy, who decided to seek greater opportunity abroad in America and moved to the designated Italian neighborhood; East Harlem. The neighborhood peaked in the thirties, crowded with 100,000 Italian-Americans with a strong sense of cultural pride. However, after the wave of Spanish and Latin immigrants in the 1940s and 1950s, Italian dominance fizzled out gradually.

The flood of Puerto Ricans to East Harlem can be attributed to wartime diaspora. Italians began to move into the Bronx, Brooklyn, and upstate, and the Hispanic populace branched out to encompass the entirety of east Harlem.   By 1950, numbers had reached 63,000. The evidence of their prominence wasn’t just in the population, but with the introduction of bodegas and botanicas, restaurants and street stands.

The neighborhood faced difficult times going into the sixties; large areas in Harlem were leveled for urban renewal projects in the 60s, there were race riots, gang warfare, drug abuse, overcrowded tenements, poverty and crime. The turmoil in the neighborhood affected everyone; different ethnic groups battled for dominance both in the streets and in politics. They had come to New York City for better opportunities and to escape war-torn societies back in Latin America only to be faced yet again with similarly destructive conditions. In attempts to rekindle feelings of independence and power, gangs like the Young Lords began to form to bring change into the communities when it seemed like all outside resources were useless. The Young Lords were a nationalist group that came to New York City in 1969 with the goal of empowering the barrios. They sought to gain independence for Puerto Ricans, as well as democratic rights for all [poor] Latinos. They proved successful because the group saw themselves as the “People’s Struggle,” fighting against and providing solutions to everyday injustices faced by the average subjugated citizen; tenement’s rights, police injustice, health care, day care, education, meals for children. The Young Lords were powerful, and very influential all the way into the early eighties.

The fights for Latino self-determination in the community place was an inspiration to many who felt they now had the passion to make changes themselves in the neighborhood. From this instilled pride grew young professionals, political leaders, activists, and artists. Specifically in New York City in the 1970s, this was known as the Nuyorican Movement and is equated to a renaissance of passionate writers, musicians, and artists. Notable names range from singer Marc Anthony, actor Al Pacino, poet Julia de Burgos, congressman Fiorella La Guardia, and writer Ernesto Quiñonez.

Ernesto Quiñonez is a born-and-raised East Harlem Puerto Rican, and also the author of the “Bodega Dream” and is declared a “New Immigrant Classic.” The novel parallels “Great Gatsby” by F. Scott Fitzgerald in numerous ways; a paradigm of life at the time in New York City; a socially-powerful figure with great dreams who enlists the loyalty of a poor everyday citizen who just wants to make an honest name for himself. “Bodega Dreams” is a bit different; it highlights the various aspects of life in El Barrio, including struggles with the dispassionate education system, the drug business, religious prevalence, and the ethnic pride and brotherhood that often conflicts with morals and legalities. Quiñonez attempted to capture a wide-range of experiences faced by those in El Barrio, as well as the struggles with having fanciful dreams that face constant impediment from restrictions due to the oppressed status of Puerto Ricans in New York City. Oftentimes he is asked if the story is autobiographical since the main character faces such realistic predicaments, but Quiñonez says he created an archetype of El Barrio youth. Quiñonez elaborates; “Growing up in Spanish Harlem, you learn that in order to not take a beating everyday, you have to fight sometimes.   ’Should I fight? How do I fight? Is there ever a just cause for violence?’”

A powerful theme in this book is the importance of culture and community in shaping who we are and who we become. The Hispanic community gained that sense of pride and unity after going through such a challenging battle together, and it is one reason many other ethnic groups felt challenged by their power. Marie described the way with which Puerto Ricans entered the neighborhood, “acting like they wanted to run the place, and tried to take it over. But we were here first.” The reality is that everyone living in Harlem faced difficult times, and found resolve in having a culture-based community support system. The bonds they each formed seemed like threats to the other cultures at the time, when everyone essentially just wanted their voices heard and to make impressions and changes. Marie explains that after the sixties, racial tensions were slowly assuaged because “what other choice did they have? We can’t just overpower each other and all try to rule the neighborhood; we have to share and get along.” In no way does Marie believe that we have reached a peaceful status of perfect symbiosis and stresses that Harlem has a long ways to go, but she re-iterates how much better today is than yesterday. “Just look, you and I have been sitting here for an hour and no one has bothered us.” Quiñonez shares this view that the neighborhood is in a far better place than it once was, but stresses the need to not let up. “I think that now the Latin community is more aware of this, but it is still an uphill battle. Though we’ve made some progress, you are basically still talking about a population with very little wealth, one that’s outnumbered and outgunned.”

East Harlem today is simultaneously trying to preserve a past and create a future. The average citizen is low to middle income, first and second generation Puerto Ricans and African American, but with growing Mexican, Dominican, Asian and white populations.   The 2000 census reported that just over half claimed Hispanic origin, 35% non-Hispanic black, 7% non-Hispanic white, and 3% Pacific-Islander non-Hispanic. Another interesting statistic: almost a third of the population is eighteen or under, a larger than normal proportion. Walking along any street in East Harlem, evidence of these reports is obvious in the everyday life; crowds of black children in uniform entering after-school facilities, markets with written signs in only Spanish, Mexican bakeries, Dominican frozen ice stands on the side walk. There are five museums with ethnic themes ranging from African Art to Jazz to El Barrio history, seven cultural centers that inspire people to get involved in social justice, art programs, and music, and a broad range centers for cultural workshops to educate and get people involved.

The late seventies was a culturally active time; there was funding for community projects, and many aspiring youth emerging from the renaissance into a very active art scene. In 1978, Hank Prussing and apprentice Manny Vega painted a mural on 104th and Lexington. Entitled, “The Spirit of East Harlem,” is was the first public mural in the neighborhood, and has become accepted as a landmark. Vega was assigned to renovate the mural, which spans an entire building façade, in 2004 after the Puerto Rican flag had been graffitied. The response was unexpectedly angry; the Puerto Rican citizens loved the mural and what it stood for, and the fact that they became so riled up just proved that the community pride was lying dormant, not deceased. Vega suggested a forum for citizens to come and discuss why they were so upset, and how we can gain a collective of opinions that can be channeled into creating new murals.   “Change is good. We can’t forget who we are,” Vega says. “Collective memory means the imagery that we live through merges us together and creates us as a community.” Clearly the importance of continuing to fight for change, to create a voice, and to ban together is alive today in East Harlem. One can walk through East Harlem and see the thirteen different murals, all colorful, vast in size, and depicting pride for those that helped mold the community, like Julia de Burgos and Reverend Pedro Pietri (historical figure and founder of the Nuyorican Poets Café).

The past is also continued in the infrastructure of the neighborhood. Just as when it stated, East Harlem remains a primary place for those seeking public housing. During the tumultuous seventies, many buildings were subject to arson and destroyed, then renovated and designated by the city as low-income housing. These complexes dominate the neighborhood, blatantly obvious by the thirty-story buildings that stand in groups like twins or triplets. “The neighborhood contains the highest geographical concentration of low-income public housing projects in the United States.”[1] However, with property values rising everywhere, East Harlem has seen a decline in affordable housing, an increase in luxury condos and co-ops, and with that, gentrification and the growth in young professionals. However, according to locals, this has not yet affected the demography or general atmosphere of the neighborhood just yet. According to 2012 Community District Needs for the borough of Manhattan, “East Harlem has the highest concentration of shelters and facilities in Manhattan, with eight homeless shelters, 36 drug and alcohol treatment facilities and 37 mental health treatment facilities. It also has the highest jobless rate in the entire city, as well as the city’s second highest cumulative AIDS rate. The asthma rate is also 5 times larger than national levels.”

The fights and struggles of past passionate and determined activists have helped paved the way for those today to savor the fruits of revolution. It’s clear to anyone willing to stroll through East Harlem that the neighborhood has a covered a lot of ground, but it still has a heavy battle before it. As I sit on the bench with Marie, listening as she rants about her local senior-citizen group’s recent trip to Atlantic City, I can’t help but notice how peacefully diverse East Harlem is, and how, after all my research, I would never have thought I’d ever think that. Marie isn’t surprised by my revelation. “Honey, I am a born-and-raised New Yorker, and have been living in that apartment across the street for thirty years. This neighborhood is definitely changing, but it’s for the better.”

 

Famous and infamous, Harlem is one of New York’s most remarkable neighborhoods. It has an extensive history, a rich, diverse culture, and a limitless future. From its beginnings as a small farming community to the Harlem Renaissance in the 1920’s, then to its fallout in the 1970’s to it’s current gentrification; Harlem is ever-changing, a true testament to the spirit of New York, and a home to many people who love it, myself included.

Whenever I told people in my Buffalo suburb that I was moving to Harlem, I was met with incredulous stares. “Isn’t it dangerous?” They would ask, and I would have to explain that Harlem is an exciting place to live, not to mention beautiful, and most importantly in my case, affordable. The median price for a one-bedroom apartment in Central Harlem is $1,750 a month opposed to $3,000 in the rest of Manhattan (Average Rental). With the rising housing costs in Manhattan, Central Harlem has become a haven for students and the working class. In fact, from 2000 to 2010, there was a 34% increase in the number of people aged 20-24 living in Central Harlem (Manhattan Community). As seen in the Lower East Side and Williamsburg, students are often the ones who pave the way for gentrification.

Gentrification happens when the economic and social nature of a neighborhood changes. Over the last decade, more middle-class families are moving to Harlem, driving up the housing prices. Chase banks and chain restaurants are eating up the no-longer-affordable commercial real estate. With its easy access to downtown, Harlem is becoming a more desirable place to live for young professionals. The rising rent is starting to push out native Harlem residents, and many are not happy. Jeff, an African American man in his forties, told me that he had lived in Harlem his whole life but is considering moving to the Bronx where rent is cheaper. “I live here because I can afford it, and it’s a subway ride from my job. But with all the rich people moving here, people like me will have to move away. That’s just not fair.” While no one misses the Harlem of the 1970’s, some of its rich culture is being lost when residents are displaced.

But perhaps gentrification is only another chapter in Harlem’s vast history. Bordered by Central Park to the south, the Harlem River to the north, St. Nicholas Avenue to the West, and 5^th Avenue to the East (Neighborhood Profile), Central Harlem is an area rich in culture and history. Harlem was originally settled by the Dutch in 1658 and used primarily for farmland. Later on, many wealthy politicians, including Alexander Hamilton, took up residence there in order to get away from busy life in New York City.

As New York’s population expanded, residents started moving north. Apartment   buildings were built and Harlem became a residential district. After the panic of 1893, Harlem faced a sharp decline and landlords couldn’t find anyone to rent to, so they started to rent to African Americans who had just started to migrate north after the Civil War (Chakravorty). From then on, Harlem was a predominately black neighborhood. Today 65% of Central Harlem’s population is black (U.S. Census).

After the end of World War I, Harlem experienced a movement known as the Harlem Renaissance. Notable people living in Harlem at that time included W.E.B. Du Bois, Louis Armstrong, Duke Ellington, and Billie Holliday, among many others. These writers, artists, activists, and musicians truly advanced black culture. Jazz music was created and the Apollo Theater was built to showcase African American talent. Jobs were created through speakeasies and clubs. In a time of severe racism, African Americans fought back through creativity (Julius Mitchell II).  The Renaissance created a new identity for African Americans nationwide.

However, the Renaissance came to a screeching halt during the Great Depression. Harlem was hit hard by rising unemployment and many residents took to rioting in the streets (A Brief History). Harlem became a center of activism during the Civil Rights Movement when African Americans were fighting for equality, better schools, equal pay, and sufficient housing. The peaceful suburbs began to attract middle-class families who were sick of the violence of the city. Those who could afford to leave did, and those who could not were forced into paying higher and higher rent for buildings that were not maintained properly (History).

In the 1970’s, Harlem hit its lowest point. The flight to the suburbs had emptied most of its buildings. During that decade, 30% of Harlem’s population left, leaving vacant lots where crime ran rampant (Sternburgh). This is the Harlem that many people think still exists today. However, in the past twenty-ones years, total crime has dropped 74% in Central Harlem, thanks to a crackdown on crime in the 1980’s (Report). When asked if she feels safe in her neighborhood, college student Kelly replied, “Mostly, I’m no more afraid of this neighborhood than I am anywhere else.”

In the 1990’s, Harlem began to change. A report in the New York Times in 1999 stated, “Central Harlem is being remade, literally and figuratively. On almost every street from 110th to 155th Street, Fifth Avenue to St. Nicholas Avenue, some development is under way” (Siegal). City funds were spent bringing Harlem up to date with the rest of the booming New York. More people began to realize its potential. So began the second Harlem Renaissance.

Today, Harlem is a far cry from what it was forty years ago. 125^th street, still the bloodline of Central Harlem, is alive with shoppers. The fashion-conscious are there to take advantage of the deals that many of the stores on 125^th offer. Niesha Hogan, a local Harlem fashionista from California says she loves Harlem because everyone “understands and loves getting dressed” (Andrade).

Also on 125^th are the Studio Museum of Harlem and other small galleries and theaters. Tourists stop to take pictures of the Apollo. New restaurants are opening on almost every street: soul food to French bistros to Red Lobster to hip bars. Harlem is becoming the new cool place to be. Harlem is getting a better reputation in pop culture. “Harlem” a catchy song by the band, New Politics debuted in 2013 and was played on the radio all over the country. Hipsters are probably reconsidering their move to Williamsburg after New Politics painted Harlem in a welcoming and fun way.

With its many parks and affordable housing, Harlem is also becoming a magnet for young families who want to escape the insanity of downtown, yet they can still get to their jobs quickly on the express trains. There are many more options when it comes to larger apartments the further north you go. It is much easier to find a large four-bedroom apartment in Harlem than in the Lower East Side where rooms are smaller and apartments more compact. Many streets have been named historic districts by the city so the beautiful prewar brownstones still stand in all their glory, carefully cared for by the people who live there today (Neighborhood History).

Through all these changes, there are still some people who worry about the changing neighborhood. On top of housing becoming more expensive, the whole makeup of the community is changing. In 2006, the percentage of white people in Harlem was the highest its been since 1940 (Beveridge). While Central Harlem is still predominately black, many residents are afraid that with the influx of whites, they will lose their traditional black neighborhood and culture that has been so long established in Harlem.

It’s fascinating for me to watch the neighborhood change around me. Yet through all of these changes, Harlem is still a true community. Walking down the street, you can see neighbors greeting each other with handshakes and hugs. Locals stand of street corners on the nice days or play basketball in the park. An old man who lives in the building next door is out all day, every day, playing his guitar. Often, people walking by will stop to chat with him; sometimes they even take a moment to sing with him. Unlike many neighborhoods of New York, the people of Harlem still take the time to get to know their neighbors or to greet people on the street with a smile. It is really the people of Harlem who make it such an incredible place to live.

 

 

Works Cited:

 

“A Brief History of Harlem.” OpenLearn. The Open University, 06 June 2008. Web 04 May 2014.

Andrade, Fritzie. “Fashion in Harlem: A Place of Style and Confidence.” The New York Times. The New York Times, 26 Mar 2014. Web. 06 May 2014.

 

“Average Rental Prices in NYC.” Naked Apartments. Web. 1 May 2014. <http://www.nakedapartments.com/blog/average-rental-prices-in-nyc/>.

 

Beveridge, Andrew. “Harlem’s Shifting Population.” Gotham Gazette: The Place for New York Policy and Politics. 02 Sept. 2008. Web. 07 May 2014.

 

Chakravorty Spivak, Gayatri. Harlem. Seagull Publications, 2013. PDF. “History of Harlem.” Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, 05 Mar. 2014. Web. 04 May 2014. <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Harlem>.

 

Julius Mitchell II, Ernest. “”Black Renaissance”: A Brief History of the  Concept.” American Studies African American Literary Studies: New Texts, New Approaches, New Challenges 55.4 (2010): 641-65. JSTOR. Web. 02 May 2014.

 

Manhattan Community District 10. New York City: Department of City Planning. June 2013. PDF.

 

“Neighborhood History.” Hamilton Heights West Harlem. Web. 04 May 2014.

 

“Neighborhood Profile: Harlem.” New York Magazine. Web. 02 May 2014.  <http://nymag.com/realestate/articles/neighborhoods/harlem.htm>.

 

Report Covering the Week 4/21/2014 Through 4/27/2014. New York City: NYPD CompStat Unit, 05 May 2014. PDF.

 

Siegal, Nina. “Harlem on the Brink.” The New York Times. The New York Times, 25 Sept. 1999. Web. 05 May 2014.

 

Sternburgh, Adam. “What’s Wrong With Gentrification?” New York Magazine. 11 Dec. 2009. Web. 04 May 2014.

 

U.S. Census Bureau. Population Division. Demographic and Housing Estimates 2008-2010. New York City Department of City Planning, Nov. 2011.

 

 

Forest Hills is a neighborhood in Queens with a very unique history. Up to the early 1900s, Forest Hills was entirely farmland. After the Queensboro Bridge was built, developers like Cord Meyer bought privately owned farms to form the neighborhood. Meyer was the one who gave Forest Hills its name. With the help of the Russell Sage Foundation and Margaret Sage, one of the first planned communities in the United States came to exist. Subway lines built from the 1920s to the 1950s modernized Forest Hills even more.

The Long Island Railroad station at Forest Hills divides the neighborhood’s commercial zone and residential community. To the south of the railway station, we found quiet streets full of private homes and beautiful gardens. This section of Forest Hills is known as Forest Hills Gardens and has an interesting history. The Forest Hills Gardens Corporation owns the streets and municipality services. It also makes sure that the buildings are kept to their 1908 Brick Tudor styles. Though this part of the neighborhood is privately owned, anyone can walk or drive in its streets. This community was planned to resemble the Hampstead Garden suburb in London, UK.  

The north of the railway station is a lot different. Between Austin Street and 71^st Avenue, we found lots of different stores. As we walked by and looked around, people were able to tell that we are not from Forest Hills. We were just amazed at the sharp difference between the two sides of the railway station. This side of the railway station had everything that someone may wish to get. Banks are everywhere — some banks are even attached to each other. There are also many fast food and ethnic restaurants. Just outside of the railway station, a small Israeli restaurant fills the street with the aroma of falafels and kebabs. Down the street, there were a couple of McDonald’s chains, Mexican restaurants, and a huge Greek restaurant that caught every walker’s attention.

We also passed by several cellphone stores. Some hire people to hand out flyers to people walking by their store. Bookstores such as Barnes & Noble, eye care stores, pet stores, food stores, and gyms only add to the list of things that one can do in Forest Hills. The only problem is that not everyone has enough money to enjoy the goods and services that each store has to offer. Despite the financial hardships, this section of the neighborhood is still very dynamic and diverse. This made it hard for us to find people who have time to chat. People were either rushing to take public transportation, go to McDonalds or anxiously scratch a lottery card. We actually had to enter stores and walk near a park to find people who have time to talk to us.

This brings us to our first two interviewees in our trip to Forest Hills. Outside of McDonald Park, a very outgoing and friendly fifty-four year old man and his wife were sitting on a bench petting their dog, Sam. As we approached them, we greeted them and said that the weather finally lets us have a nice walk in the park.

We started asking them questions about how it is like to live in Forest Hills. They were able to give us useful answers, because they lived in Forest Hills for more than twenty-four years. They got to see the neighborhood change in its highs and lows. Originally, they are from Philadelphia and came to New York City because of better job openings.

The man said the residents in the neighborhood are mellow, the schools are good, and there are many good restaurants. In his free time, he walks with his wife and the dog. People acknowledge each other.  Every time he walks by, people he knows and doesn’t know say “hi” or “good morning”. Even if they don’t say anything, they still nod.

He complained a lot about the economic situation. He said the prices and rents in Forest Hills are “mind-numbing” but still less expensive than some places in Manhattan. He knows people who moved from Midtown to Forest Hills to seek affordable rent. He also noticed that many young people move to Forest Hills with their newborn children. People starting families need to build themselves up until they are able to afford living in more expensive places. He believes that no matter who you are or where you’re from, you can still make it as long as you have a good idea.

He complained a lot about “homeless behaviors.” There are waves of homeless people that come twice a year and disturb the beauty of the neighborhood. He accused some homeless people of public indecency, because they move their bowels at night on the bushes in the local parks. The residents in Forest Hills could not relocate those “mentally ill” people after many failed attempts. Relocating homeless people is not only a problem in Forest Hills, but in many parts of the United States, as well. He argued that the government must reform the mental health care program and make sure that homeless people do not hurt other citizens and ruin things that people enjoy in their free time. His wife briefly told us about a homeless man who beat a woman leaving the 71^stAvenue/Forest Hills subway station at 11:00 P.M. They said the neighborhood is safe during the day, but is often dangerous at night. They highly recommended walking in groups in case danger is faced. The man said, he would be “half-scared to death if his wife had to buy a milk carton that late at night.”

After we finished talking to this couple, we went to a deli on Austin Street and Ascan Avenue to buy water. As we paid the cashier, we told him that prices have been on the rise lately. He agreed with us and said that over the past three to four months, prices soared more than ever before. He said he lives in the neighborhood only because he owns a store there. He said people leave Forest Hills and other places in NYC to go live in other states. When we asked him about where they usually go, he said that the people that he knows of went to the south to avoid paying New York’s high taxes. After leaving India, he lived in the US for eighteen years. When he first came to Forest Hills, there were many White American Jews. However, over the past years, he saw many Asians (mostly from China) living in the neighborhood.

Forest Hills is home to about 83,728 residents. Of those people, 41,056 people (about forty nine percent) are born outside of the United States. The most common ten countries of origin are China, Russia, Uzbekistan, India, Colombia, Ukraine, Israel, Poland, Japan, and Korea. Forest Hills is home to the largest Uzbek community in New York City. Many Central Asian Jews, mostly from Uzbekistan came to live in Forest Hills in the 1980s. They are referred to as Bukharian Jews.

From the 1920s to 1940s, Forest Hills became the home of many second generation American Jews. In the 1920s, the average rent in Forest Hills was very high- about twenty-five dollars a month. Jews were one of the fewest ethnic groups that were able to pay this amount every month. In the 1940s, Jews became officially recognized as middle class citizens. Without a doubt, the backgrounds of people living in Forest Hills have changed over the years. When we were walking in the streets, we did not find as many Jews as we expected.

After we left the deli, something strange caught our attention. There were two Metro PCS stores one block away from each other. When we crossed the street, there was a vacant store that had a sign with the new address. We walked up the street to the new Metro PCS and asked if we could talk to an employee. The man we talked to grew up in Forest Hills and moved out when he was eight. Despite saying that the community is comfortable, he does not recommend living in Forest Hills. Like the deli owner and the couple at the park, he complained about the economic recession. He said the store is “broke”, because they do not get a lot of customers and the cost of staying open is higher than it seems. When we asked him what happened to the vacant store, he said they had to move because the rent was too expensive. He complained that they had months when the cost of keeping the business open was higher than the store’s income.

After spending a day in Forest Hills, I appreciated the neighborhood more than I ever did before. The different people we talked to told us many interesting stories that will leave a lasting imprint in our minds.

Queens, NY was first settled by the Dutch in the year of 1635.  Over 250 years later, it became a New York City borough in 1898.  Jamaica, Queens, my neighborhood of focus, was established in 1656, following the settlement of Newton (which later became Elmhurst) in 1642, Far Rockaway in 1644, and Flushing in 1645.  Jamaica remains one of the many commercial centers in Queens although there have been changes in demographics.

According to the 2010 Population Census for zip code 11432, Jamaica had a population of approximately 60, 809 people.  That is a 6.06% increase from a population of 57,045 in 2000.  Walking around the neighborhood, one would assume that Jamaica is a predominantly African American neighborhood.  However, according to the same 2010 Census, 12,203 people identified as being African American while 21,601 identified as being Asian, majority of them identifying themselves as Asian Indian.  In an article about Jamaica’s change in African-American predominance, it was stated that currently “blacks are 20 percent of the residents… [And] Asians, many from Bangladesh, Pakistan, India and China, now make up a whopping 30 percent of the population.”  Between 2000 and 2010, the African American population decreased by 8.90% while the Asian population increased by 54.86%.

When I think of Jamaica, Queens, immediately what comes to mind is Jamaica Avenue, or what I think most of Queens’s residents near Jamaica refer to as “the Ave”.  It has been a very active area in Jamaica, Queens for as long as I can remember.  However, I find that the types of people that now frequent Jamaica Avenue are a little different from those that did maybe 5-10 years ago.  I feel like the Ave is more for the younger and older folks who either have less money than others or just don’t want to spend a lot on clothing and other wanted items while the middle aged people are less likely to shop there.  I find that people my age tend to flock to malls, such as Green Acres in Valley Stream, or head over to Manhattan to do their shopping in Midtown or SoHo, for instance.  Don’t get me wrong, though.  The Ave is a great place to find bargain items and even though there is a stigma that cheaper priced clothing is cheap in quality, I have found some staple items that have held up through the years and didn’t cost me no more than $20.

I decided to take a walk down Jamaica Avenue and actually managed to talk to three people who basically confirmed my theory about who shops on the Ave. One person I spoke to was a girl named Tiffany Williams.  She’s 15 years old and goes to Hillcrest High School right nearby on Hillside Avenue.  I was in one of the many beauty supply stores on the Ave when I ran into her and her friends.  She told me that just about every day after school she and her friends walk down the Ave until it’s time for them to go home.  Sometimes they buy things, sometimes they just go to look at clothes or get food at Wendy’s, McDonald’s, or Burger King.

Nonetheless, you’ll always find some young people like them shopping or walking up and down the Ave, and personally I avoid the times of day when they are plentiful.  The young kids are usually a rowdy bunch, and on numerous occasions, although not so frequently now, there have been fights in the street among them.

I also got to speak with an older woman named Sheryl Watson who was stopping by the flea market to look around for some good bargains.  Sheryl is 56 years old and works as a home health aide for a 92-year-old woman.  While we were talking, she let me know that she usually comes to the Ave anytime between 10am and 2pm because she knows “that’s when the kids are away, and I can shop in peace.”  I can definitely see her point.  It’s kind of safe to say that the older folks plan their trips around the times when the younger kids who frequent the Ave are in school.

The third woman I spoke to was on her way to the subway.  Her name is Taylor Morgan.  She is 21 years old and is currently a junior majoring in accounting at York College right nearby the Jamaica Center train station.  We only spoke for maybe three minutes, but I did find out that, like me, she only shops on the Ave when she’s in desperate need of something or she left some shopping until the last minute.  Other than that, “you can catch me somewhere in the city shopping,” she said.  I hope I’m not speaking incorrectly for her when I say that the clothing you find on the Ave is slightly limited and everything, at least to me, looks almost exactly the same from store to store.

Regardless of how limited the choices may or may not be, you will always find people shopping.  That’s always a given, and that’s the very reason I like the Ave.  To me, it’s like the part of Queens that never sleeps (well until 8:00 pm or so when all of the stores close).  And shopping isn’t all that can be done there.  There’s a major movie theater, Jamaica Multiplex Cinemas, where tickets are usually around $12.00 on a regular day for adults but only around $7.00 on Tuesdays.  However, here is a disclaimer before you may decide you want to go see a movie on a Tuesday at the Multiplex: it is almost guaranteed to be crowded and you might be able to be money and win that you won’t get to sit through a movie in peace and quiet, as there will be very active and emotionally invested movie watchers who react to and comment on just about everything going on in the film.

Besides watching movies and shopping, there are also places to grab a bite to eat, although I must say the choices are a bit disappointing.  Starting from the intersection of Jamaica Avenue and Parsons Boulevard working eastward, there are a slew of fast food restaurants that begin with Wendy’s.  Directly across the street is McDonald’s, and along Parsons Blvd but still near Jamaica Avenue are Subway, Popeye’s, Dunkin Donuts, and Golden Krust.  A block or so down the Ave is Burger King and then Taco Bell.  A ways down is a pizza place and then a really good Jamaican food spot called Jamaican Flavors on the Colosseum Block.  Basically, there are a lot of fast food places and the only sit-down restaurant is Applebee’s, sadly.

Regardless of the change in demographics over the years, it still remains that Jamaica is a commercial center although, in my opinion, the target population has shifted.  I chose Jamaica, Queens because it is the closest urban neighborhood to Queens Village, where I live.   I think the liveliness of the Ave on any given day, during any circumstance is perfectly described with the following:

 

Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these Jamaica residents from the swift completion of their material acquisitions at discounted prices.

 

That is a little alteration to the unofficial US Postal Service creed that I created, and I think it sums up the atmosphere of the Ave.  There is never a day when you don’t find people making their rounds through the stores, shopping for the best deals they can find.

 

WORKS CITED

Boone, Ruschell. “Queens Week 2014: Jamaica No Longer Predominantly African-American Neighborhood.” Borough Spotlight. Time Warner Cable Enterprises, 15 Apr. 2014. Web. 25 Apr. 2014.

“JAMAICA, NY 11432.” 2010 Census for ZIP Code 11432, Population Demographics, JAMAICA NY, 2010 Census. Zip-Codes.com, n.d. Web. 18 Apr. 2014.

“Jamaica, Queens, NY.” FindTheBest.com, n.d. Web. 14 Apr. 2014.

“Queens (borough, New York City, New York, United States).” Encyclopedia Britannica Online. Encyclopedia Britannica, n.d. Web. 14 Apr. 2014.

Red-stained rooftops define the signature landscape of Forest Hills. They can be seen right outside of Station Square. It’s the first thing you see when you step off the Long Island Rail Road at Forest Hills Station. Station Square’s red brick road and antique façade are representative of the private community that makes up the southern half of Forest Hills, known as Forest Hills Gardens. Looking around the private neighborhood of Forest Hills Gardens, you would think it was a suburban town in London. You wouldn’t be wrong in thinking so. Forest Hills Gardens was designed and built in the 1920’s, led by renowned architects Fredrick Law Olmstead Jr. and Grosvenor Atterbury. This private community was designed to be a cottage town, mimicking the English Village atmosphere found in England. The houses in this area are very well ordained, with roof tiles the color of red wine, cobble stone foundations, and elegant dormers designed with wood bracing. All of the buildings and houses in this private community are based on Tudor and Georgian style architecture. The uniformity of design adds a sense of a close-knit community for the residents who live here. This private community is the oldest section of the neighborhood, as well as the first to be developed into what is current day Forest Hills.

Forest Hills has had a long history of Jewish residents. This was a result of the relatively high mortgage prices ($25 per month) of the housing in Forest Hills Gardens. Working class and lower middle class families clearly could not afford this. This unintended side effect of the Forest Hills Gardens project kept lower-income citizens from living in the area, reserving it for the middle and upper middle class. At this time, second generation Jewish families were increasing in socioeconomic status, rising to become a significant member of the American middle class. This was due to a combination of factors, including the degradation of the large extended family, lower birth rates, and overall modernization of living patterns. Grandparents lived in the same house as their children, and took on the job of raising grandchildren while the parents took this time to focus on careers or education. This ultimately culminated into a significant growth of Jewish middle class families, with Jewish men taking on managerial and official positions, and Jewish women getting jobs as teachers and clerks. This also allowed many young Jews a chance to take advantage of the free college opportunities and studying to become doctors, lawyers, pharmacists, and accountants. This ensured a spot for the Jewish population in the middle class.

The Jewish community in Forest Hills began to develop, with the founding of the Forest Hills Jewish Center at Kessel St. and 69^th Ave in 1929, as well as the construction of several synagogues. The influx of people to Forest Hills was catalyzed by the completion of the LIRR Forest Hills Station and the electrifying of the rails in 1909. Commuting to Manhattan now took only 20 minutes. This was especially important to Jewish families. Unlike other ethnic groups, the Jewish middle class were “more willing to leave home and live independently.” This meant that the Jews were more inclined to commute to work and live independently from home than other ethnic groups. This, along with the atmosphere of the private housing project in Forest Hills and growing Jewish community, persuaded many Jewish middle class professionals and families to move into the neighborhood.

Later, in the 1980’s, a large number of immigrants from Europe and Asia moved into Forest Hills. A significant population of Russian Jews from the region of Bukhara in Uzbekistan (Also known as the Bukharan Jews) immigrated to Forest Hills exclusively. The already-established Jewish community, along with the immigration of other Russian Jews probably influenced the decision of the Uzbekistani immigrants to settle in Forest Hills. This immigration event led Forest Hills to have more Uzbekistani people than any other neighborhood in the City of New York today. Along with the Russian and Uzbekistani Jews were the Chinese, who moved in large numbers to both Forest Hills and neighboring Rego Park in the 1980’s. The Chinese and the Slavic Jews together make up 40% of the forty-one thousand foreign born immigrants that currently reside in Forest Hills. In total, Forest Hills has a population of eighty-three thousand residents, with roughly 50% of residents being foreign-born immigrants.

As I walked down the Forest Hills station platform with Fadi and Stelios, we noticed the stark division between the northern and southern side of the tracks. The LIRR literally divides the neighborhood of Forest Hills, with Forest Hills Gardens on the south side, and the commercial district of Austin St. to the north. Beyond Austin St. is the throughway of Queens Blvd. and the residential apartments and offices that lie on the north side of the Boulevard. The Forest Hills – 71^st Ave. subway station is located along Queens Blvd. Ascan Ave. This station has both express (F and E) and local (M and R) train service, making it a major stops in Queens. Beyond Queens Blvd. is residential housing between 71^st Ave. and 62^nd Drive. You can find many Russians and Asians living in this area. Forest Hills High School, a major high school in Queens, is situated on 67^th Ave. and 110^th Street. The area north of 71^st Ave. looks very much like a populated suburbia, with single and two-family houses on every block, and the occasional apartment housing. They’re not as lavish or majestic as the cottages in Forest Hills Gardens, but they are nevertheless homely and comforting.

The commercial area of Austin St. is where many people, both locals and visitors, come to shop and hang out. Austin St. is very busy compared to the quiet and calm streets in Forrest Hills Gardens. There are many cafes, restaurants, delis, eye care stores, banks, and various shops of all kinds along this road. Greek eateries, Jewish bakeries, and Mexican cafes are just a few of what can be found on Austin St. We took a walk along this road to get a feel of the people that shopped and lived here. It was a Saturday morning and everyone was out and about. We saw Joggers, mothers and fathers with their children, elderly couples, and young adults on the sidewalks, talking and chatting with each other. To me, it almost felt like a small town with the people of a city. In fact, according to the Forest Hills Chamber of Commerce, the motto for the store merchants in Forest Hills is:” We are large enough to serve you and small enough to know you.”  This motto clearly reflects the sense of strong community in Forest Hills.

While perusing the commercial district, we met a storekeeper of a convenience store a block away from Ascan Ave. along Austin St. He was a Southeast Asian immigrant who came to Forest Hills in 1996. When he arrived, he noticed that the majority of those that live in Forest Hills were white and Jewish. However, in recent years, there has been an increasing flux of Asians moving to live in Forest Hills, a growing trend in Queens. Another resident of Forest Hills added to this, saying that, in general, newlywed couples and young families of all ethnicities have been moving in to Forest Hills. The reason for this is no surprise. One fifth of the population is over the age of sixty five, which lends to the neighborhood a “calm constancy” that growing families look for. Families want a place where they can settle down and have a constant and steady life as they foster a child into adulthood. The low crime rate, good value of rent, and middle class community, along with local access to great public schools like Forest Hills High School, all add to the desirability for expecting families. It’s like a pocket of suburban comfort and tranquility in the middle of a city.

Despite this, the economic situation in Forest Hills has been getting worse. In recent months, the price of living in Forest Hills has risen, resulting in price increases of all goods and services. Another man, who worked at a nearby Metro PCS shop, agreed with this, saying “People are broke, man.” In fact, every person I talked to in Forest Hills agreed that the financial situation in Forest Hills is the most prevalent and problematic issue affecting the community. One man went as far as to say that the prices in Forest Hills are “mind-numbing”. The rising property values threaten the current residents who don’t have the financial security to take on the rising expenditures. The security of a good neighborhood comes with the price of paying for the value of it. Although the prices in Forest Hills are bargains compared to equally valued neighborhoods in Manhattan, it is growing to be more than what the residents can chew.

The people that live there now are mostly progressive in their beliefs. We met a heavyset man with his wife and dog, Sam, at McDonald Park along Queens Blvd., and we got into a discussion about gay marriage and economic entitlement. He supports gay marriage and opposes welfare states. Although this is just one person, various reports on Forest Hills agree that Forest Hills is leaning towards progressivism. This may be due to a large variety of factors, but the most prominent one may be the influx of younger people into the area, as well as a progressively minded elderly population. Remember that the elderly populations that currently live in Forest Hills are the children of the Jewish middle class that were the first among many to adopt a modern lifestyle of independence and living away from home. These progressive ideals carried on for years after, up to this day.

It’s clear that Forest Hills has remained relatively constant in its makeup and texture since its conception, a distinctly unique trait of this neighborhood. Unlike other neighborhoods like Harlem or the Lower East Side, Forest Hills has kept its original settling population, the white middle class Jews. Also, unlike other neighborhoods, the ethnic diversification in Forest Hills is gradual and smooth. People of all races and backgrounds are moving in to Forest Hills, and there is no noticeable ethnic tension between the ethnic groups. In addition, the gentrification process that is causing major transformations in some neighborhoods like Park Slope and Bedford-Stuyvesant is non-existent in Forest Hills. The neighborhood was already gentrified at its conception. Given this, the current trends in New York City as a whole only serve to further support the gentrified community in Forest Hills to continue its constant direction.

One thing that stuck with me as I left Forest Hills was that the sense of community and comfort I got just by standing on the street of Austin St., the heart of Forest Hills. The man in the park confirmed this, saying “People who I know and who I don’t know say ‘Hi!’ when I pass by. It’s a very friendly community.” It’s certainly the type of community to start a family in. One co-op and condo newspaper, The Cooperator, even called Forest Hills “The Queen of Queens”, citing its rich community and culture. Above all, the safety of the neighborhood is unparalleled in the city. One of the residents told me “If my wife has to go out to buy a carton of milk at 11 o’clock at night, I won’t be scared for her life at all”. It’s no wonder why they call the 112^th Precinct in Forest Hills “The Snooze Precinct”. All in all, the community in Forest Hills is surprisingly strong. The man in McDonald Park gave a final word of advice for anyone who wishes to move to Forest Hills: “It doesn’t matter who you are or where you’re from, can make it in if you have a good idea. This neighborhood is welcome to anyone”.

Catch a glimpse of the gardens hidden within the buildings’ parameters and you know you’re there. Walk into a restaurant where ceviche is the first item on the menu and you know you’re there. Don’t feel like having Ecuadorean food? Just go outside to the restaurant next door for some Chinese take out, or better yet, stop by Mama’s Empanadas and order a few pieces of carne molida. If the weather is nice, you can enjoy them on a bench at Travers Park, while watching the local kids play baseball in the same field where Jackie Robinson once practiced.

This is what it means to live in Jackson Heights.

Lined with verdant trees and hedge-adorned co-ops on every block, Jackson Heights is a neighborhood that brims with its own charming personality. The neighborhood was initially planned by the Queensboro Corporation, for middle- to upper middle-income families in the early 1900s—right after the 7 train arose between Manhattan and Flushing—and was intended to be a community where those working in Manhattan could raise their children away from the crowded bustle of the city. Because of this, Jackson Heights is known for its slight suburban feel, as there are numerous blocks of private homes in addition to famous “garden apartments” such as the Greystones, Hampton Court, and The Towers. To this day, it remains a very family-oriented community, with a total of eleven schools, 7,482 trees, over fifteen playgrounds, and ten indoor play areas. Also, because 62% of the residences were built before 1950, it’s no surprise that the neighborhood was named a New York City Historic District in 1993.

However, much has changed in Jackson Heights since its early beginnings. The majority of the first immigrants to come to Jackson Heights were Italian, and a strong Italian American presence had been held until the 1960s, when many Colombians and other Latin American immigrants began to arrive. This wave of Hispanic immigrants continues to have a standing in Jackson Heights today, along with the more recently arrived Asian immigrants. As a result, the current population of foreign-born residents is at 40,370 out of 66,235 and rising. This number accounts for the fact that 54% of residents speak Spanish at home, whereas only 17% of residents speak English at home. In a survey, it was found that countries like Ecuador, Colombia, Mexico, Bangladesh, the Dominican Republic, China, and India are the most common places of birth for foreign-born residents. This being so, cultural and ethnic diversity is a prominent feature of Jackson Heights, and one of the main reasons why immigrants choose to live in the neighborhood.

When asked about how and why she settled in Jackson Heights, Sunita Chawla, an immigrant from India and proud mother of two, replied, “We wanted to stay with our own people.” She also mentioned the low cost and convenience of the neighborhood, as public transportation and business (cheap restaurants, delis, electronic stores, etc.) is just a short walk away from most homes. After a long interview on a beautiful day at the park, I got to know more about Sunita and her transition from growing up in a poor, rural village in India to living in a New York City apartment building shared with Bangladeshis and Dominicans.

Sunita’s story is a classic representation of the Jackson Heights foreign-born population. From a northwest Indian town known as Nagpur, her family could barely afford to put food on the table, and any money that was earned went into getting an education. In this way, she grew to appreciate all opportunities that helped lead to a better life, as well as value the importance of education. After graduating college with a degree in fashion and earning a job in clothing manufacture for American designers, Sunita got a job offer that required her to travel to America. In 1972, she moved with her husband to her employer’s house in New Jersey, making the travel to New York’s Garment District five days a week, where she did quality control for clothing.

The perception of gender roles changed drastically for her upon arrival, because most women in India are housewives and the men are usually the ones who work. Despite this, Sunita was now the primary source of income for not only her family but her extended family too, since she would send money to her relatives in India. Another change was the difference in social attitudes; according to her, “In India, there’s a lot of problems with gossiping—also because I came from a small town. But here, everyone minds their own business.” She took comfort in knowing that the abundance of opportunities meant less societal interferences. In other words, no one judged. However, this New York state of mind came with its own obstacles. Sunita found that, although people tended to mind their own business, this could often be taken too far for her comfort zone. The freedom of expression sometimes made her uncomfortable, especially seeing sexualized advertisements or young women in revealing clothes, which weren’t acceptable for the public eye in India.

After supporting the rest of her family’s move to America by sponsoring them, filing their visa applications and other paperwork, and eventually finding a house for all of them to live in, she, her four siblings, and their mom, stayed under a four-family house in Newark. In 1994, they decided to branch out to New York for commute reasons. Because everyone worked in the city—and also because everyone was starting to raise their families—it only made sense to move closer to their jobs. First coming to Woodside, Queens, the large family of extended relatives decided that, after two years, they wanted to be part of a bigger Indian community where their children could grow up in. And Jackson Heights in the mid-90s was a perfect place to find this. Finding a decently priced building with three available apartments on the corner of 76^th and 35^th Avenue, Sunita’s family thought the neighborhood to be safe, clean, and quiet—exactly what they were looking for. Sunita lived on the sixth floor, along with her two kids, husband, mother, and sister. Meanwhile, her brother lived just two floors down with his own family, and her other sister lived on the third floor with her family.

Originally, the building had been predominantly Indian with a small white population. But a great amount of Bangladeshi immigrants have since occupied it. To her family, the change has created a sense of loss and nostalgia for the past, as Sunita remarks, “I miss the feeling of belonging in a community of my own.” Even the neighborhood surrounding the apartment building itself is no longer Indian, and instead, mostly Colombian and Dominican. When asked about her family’s attitudes toward the other immigrants that currently live in the building and nearby residences, she said that they like that Hispanics are family-oriented and keep to themselves, however, cultural (mostly religious) tensions do exist between the Indians and Bangladeshis.

Like many other foreign-born residents who have spent most of their life in America, Sunita no longer considers permanently living in her country of origin. According to her, the culture is very conservative there, and arranged marriages are rather common. “In India, silence is considered beauty,” she observes pensively. At the same time, India is a stark contrast from the comfort and stability of America, since the government there is relatively corrupt, the quality of the air and food is not as great, and the economy is much worse. In her opinion, no other place in America has the same extent of convenience as Jackson Heights, and that the proximity to both Manhattan and Long Island makes it worth the stay.

For Sunita, Jackson Heights is the soil on which she grew the American Dream. It was there, not New Jersey, and not India, that she felt as though her happiness was truly achieved. “If you come here and you work hard, anything is possible. I believe that is the American Dream and I have accomplished that because I am satisfied. I have all the necessities of life. I’m happy. I only want the same for my kids,” she said to me as a final reflection. She has sent both of her kids to Catholic school because private schools are considered disciplined and structured. Another reason is her own experience attending British private schools in India, which were Christian and helped her to learn English better. In hopes of letting her children diversify their experiences in a similar manner, Sunita thinks that Jackson Heights will contribute much to her family, as well as future generations. With so many cultures in just one area, the neighborhood has impacted them in a positive, cultivating manner. And it’s unlikely that such an impact will cease to have its presence in the residents of Jackson Heights for years to come.

Imagine a busy Saturday afternoon in any crowded neighborhood in New York. How many people would honestly take their time out of their busy day to stop and talk to you? As I walked along the street with Fadi and Carl the only think that came to mind was how bad of an idea this was. I mean…. Who tries to talk to a New Yorker at 11 A.M? The events that followed still surprise me.

My first impression of Forest Hills was simple. A neighborhood split into two parts by a small plaza, and the LIRR. The first part is the business area. A small town teeming with restaurants, delis, clothing shops, and anything else you can imagine, all lined across Austin Street. After a small glimpse of the town we decided to start our day in the residential district. As soon as I crossed to the left of the LIRR it felt like I was teleported to whole different world. It stopped feeling like New York City altogether. Lining the streets, were gorgeous, spaced out houses 1900’s style buildings that looked like they belonged in the suburbs, not a town in the heart of New York with almost 35,000 people per square mile.

It is safe to say that our shocked expressions told every person that passed us that we weren’t from the area. One woman in her twenties who was jogging laughed and said “Welcome to Forest Hills Garden” as she passed by us. This was the first time that I realized that I was in a special part of New York. I realized that maybe trying to talk to people wasn’t as bad of an idea as I had first thought.

Forest Hills Garden is hardly where the marvels of this neighborhood end. Only a short walk away is the pride of all Queens parks, Corona Park. This 1,300 square foot park has just about everything in it, from soccer fields, to the Queens Museum, to the Ice Rink. Dotted throughout Forest hills are numerous parks and squares, including the Yellowstone Municipal park. A park that always seems to be filled with kids playing basketball, and handball. Several small plazas provide areas where you can take a rest from a walk, or you can just admire the scenery throughout. It was in one of these plazas that we met a middle-aged couple who were out for a stroll with their dog.

Originally from Philadelphia they moved to Queens twenty-four years ago. They have been lucky enough to witness the changes that have occurred in Forest Hills. They have seen friends move into and out of the neighborhood. They were witnesses to the highs and lows of both the middle school systems, and Forest Hills High School. Once parents that devoted their lives to their two children, they now devote their lives to their one dog Sam. They treat him as though he truly was their own child, wanting him to experience fun, while still attempting to shield him from some of the darker parts of the neighborhood.

Forest Hills is famous for having one of the best school systems available. The couple agreed with our statement, mentioning how many things have changed in this area, but the great quality of the elementary, middle school, and of Forest Hills High School hasn’t changed at all. The Ohio website report card gave the Forest Hills school district an A. This is something that almost everyone we talked to liked to brag about.

Although many of the buildings in the neighborhood are old, by walking through the streets you can’t help but see the lack of history. This modern town seems to have no remains of the place that once held speeches by presidents Jimmy Carter, and Theodore Roosevelt. Some neighborhoods may have kept pictures of important events such as this, yet Forest Hills seems to be ever changing, and never looking back. There isn’t much that remains from the once small, rich, mostly Jewish community. In the 1920s and 30s, these Jews were the only ones that could afford to pay the expensive rent of 25 to 30 dollars at the time. Yet even this has changed. The two constants that have remained in this area was that it was, and still is home to many wealthy people, whom a large number of are still Jewish, but not to the extent that it once was. The second constant and one of the only forms of history are two monuments that were erected to honor the victims of World War 1, and of the shit Columbia. No more do you see signs of the U.S Open that was held in this area until 1977. Instead, the large amount of people moving into Forest Hills seem to have brought along with them their own history, one that is rapidly replacing the old.

Not everything in Forest Hills is as rich and wealthy as they were originally imagined. In the 1970s the first low- income apartment complex was built on 108^th street, and from that time on several other high rise apartment buildings have popped up in the neighborhood. Although they haven’t lowered the quality of the area, certain people such as the couple were a bit ashamed of it. For a neighborhood as friendly, and as popular as Forest Hills, they didn’t think that this was the kind of housing that should have been placed in the area.

A local deli owner (located on Austin Street), a middle aged Indian man who had come to the U.S eighteen years ago and immediately settled into Forest Hills was more than eager to talk to us. Although his original plan was not to become a deli owner, he chose to come here to the U.S mainly because of money. “This town isn’t what it once was, although people still have money you see new stores coming and going constantly. The neighborhood is slowly going broke, but then I guess that’s every neighborhood now.” Through these words, the deli owner let us in on some little secrets that we would normally have never been able to know about the neighborhood. Although considered by many to be an upper- middle class neighborhood, the financial troubles have hit them just as hard. In an attempt to forward his argument the owner told us: “The prices of everything has gone up by like 25, 50 cents! People just don’t have the money to spend on things anymore.”

Almost as if on queue we met a man who had a much different story: “I came here cause I’ve gone broke man. I lost everything I had, and just couldn’t afford to live in Manhattan anymore.”

Although their smiles told one story of their lives, the eyes of the people around the neighborhood told another. As the couple in the park told us, people are quickly migrating to Forest Hills, and often times from Manhattan. Why? The main reason that people said was cause they just didn’t have the money to afford the prices in the City anymore. Although expensive, Forest Hills is nowhere near as expensive as Manhattan is now. The lady from the park who we talked to, told us that, “majority of my newer neighbors now are young people with kids. It’s really a great sight to see. There’s also a lot more Asian people moving into the neighborhood which is nice, these streets could always use some more diversity.” This last sentence was pretty shocking to me considering that there are over 40,000 immigrants residing in the area. Almost 49 percent.

Although Forest Hills is considered one of the safest neighborhoods in New York, to the point where the local 112^th precinct was nicknamed the “snooze precinct,” many people have started having problems with homeless people. The couple told of their anger after seeing several homeless people late at night attempting to hassle them. One instance in particular that really bothered the couple was of seeing a man urinating in a public park. The couple both chimed in almost perfect unison when they talked about their disgust: “I understand that you may not be as privileged at the moment as others, but there are certain sets of principals that I just feel every person should have to follow. Urinating in a public place is one of those principals.” Aside from the problem with the homeless people, and the fact that the police aren’t allowed to bother them in any way possible the man said, “if my wife had to go and buy milk in the middle of the night, I’d absolutely feel safe letting her.”

Although every person has had different experiences in Forest Hills, no matter who we talked to, even tourists just visiting family, all seemed to agree that this was a wonderful area. In many ways, they are right. Although in a time of hardship, the people in Forest Hills just seem to find a way to enjoy their time. Whether it’s a walk through the park, going shopping, or just simply hanging out in the beautiful neighborhood, people just always seem to have a smile on their face. Leaving Forest Hills, it’ll be hard to forget the feel of having random people smile, and say hello to you as they pass. It is truly a neighborhood like no other in New York City, and one I look forward to spending more time exploring.

Painting the portrait of a neighborhood as vibrant as Flushing using a little over 1500 words is no easy task. However, Gautam and I tried to at least get a mental picture by strolling through the area and conversing with several of its members. The overall portrait described in words may end up being a bit blurry, but considering it’s a portrait of Flushing, it should still be beautiful and dynamic.

We can start sketching our portrait by looking at Flushing’s origins. Flushing was originally land purchased by the Dutch from a group of Native Americans called the Matinecocks. The settlers named the land Vlissingen, which translates to “flowing water.” Later, when the British took over the area, they Anglicized the name Vlissingen, giving the area its current name, Flushing. Flushing was one of the first areas to petition for and later obtain religious freedom. The petition, called the Flushing Remonstrance, was written in 1657. The petition was written in response to a law passed by Governor Stuyvesant that prohibited Flushing residents from receiving Quakers into their homes. At the time, the occupants of Flushing were primarily Dutch and English. Later, in the 1800’s African Americans, attracted by Flushing’s tolerance of Quakers, began settling in Flushing.

As time went by, Flushing’s development served to make it even more appealing to outsiders. In 1843, a local newspaper was put into circulation and a secondary school opened. The school’s population included students from other parts of the U.S., Europe, South and Central America. In 1854, a railroad was set up that connected Flushing with New York City. After the Civil War, the population of Flushing increased significantly. This increase can be attributed to trolley lines and railroads, which facilitated commuting in and out of the area. The population would see another increase in the early 1900’s. New developments in Flushing corresponded with this increase. A subway line was developed that connected Flushing with Manhattan and apartment buildings began replacing houses.

Later in the1900’s, large groups of Asian immigrants began making Flushing their home. Most of these immigrants were Chinese, Korean and Japanese. Their arrival at this time can be partially attributed to the 1965 Immigration and Nationality Act, which got rid of the quota system that severely limited the amount of Asian immigrants that could immigrate to the U.S.. A second wave of immigrants came in the 1980’s. This time, the immigrants came from a wider variety of countries, including China, Korea, India, Colombia, Afghanistan, Guyana, the Dominican Republic, Pakistan, the Philippines and El Salvador.

With our sketch of the past complete, we can begin adding some color using current demographics of Flushing. Flushing has the seventh largest immigrant population in New York. 67.7% of residents in Flushing are foreign-born. Of those foreign born, 80% are from Asia, giving Flushing the largest concentration of Asian immigrants in Queens. That means that about 54% of Flushing currently consists of Asian immigrants. This is a very different picture from 24 years ago when the largest population in Flushing was White Non-Hispanic, which made up about 58% of the population. The Asian population at the time represented only about 22% of the neighborhood. The current Asian population consists primarily of Chinese, Koreans and Indians. The immigrant population of Flushing also includes people from Colombia, Pakistan, the Philippines, Malaysia, Ecuador, the Dominican Republic, and Bangladesh, as well as other countries. While Flushing’s Chinese population has increased over the years, most likely taking in Chinese immigrants that left the Chinatown in Manhattan, its Indian population has actually declined by 23% since 2000.

To finish of our picture, we need to add a personal touch in the form of personal experiences. I had never been to Flushing before, so I was not sure what to expect. When I got off at the last stop on the 7-train and walked out into the sunlight, I was immersed in a raging sea of people. Everyone had somewhere to be and seemed to be in a hurry to get there. I felt intimidated, wondering how I was going to find the courage to stop such seemingly busy people for an interview. I went to the corner, and waited for Gautam, who lives in the area, to arrive. When he did, we went to a nearby public library to discuss our game plan. I was surprised to see so many people in the library on Saturday. It was so packed that we could not find a seat. Planning our day did not take long, so we departed soon after.

We decided to stay away from the busy Main Street and instead walk the less-crowded streets and visit several parks in the area. Away from Main Street, the residential houses brought a sense of calm compared to the congested buildings in the main street area. Something that surprised me as we walked was the variety of religious institutions we passed by while covering a relatively small area. We saw a Sikh temple, a synagogue, and a Korean Christian church. While walking along one street, we looked into one yard to see what looked like a yard sale. Several people, all Asian, were perusing a table covered in a vast collection of clothing, and pulling out what they thought they might like. A few feet away from the table stood a lady who appeared to be in charge of transactions. In front of her were several boxes, one of which said “Donations.” I decided to walk over and ask her what the donations were for only to find out that she did not speak English. Instead, she called over another woman who greeted us and asked us what we needed. I told her I wanted to know what the donations were for. She explained that they were collecting donations for the homeless. The yard they were in, and the building behind it was used to house the homeless and the clothes the people were perusing were meant for the homeless. Unfortunately, the owners of the building were no longer allowing the homeless to reside there. As a result, the people, who I found out were a part of the Jesus Love House Mission, were giving away the clothes, partially in exchange for donation. Essentially, the clothes were free and for anyone who needed them. However, it was deeply appreciated if those who took clothes could donate as well. The money used would go to help the homeless. I did not want any clothing, but I decided to put a dollar in the donation box. The woman was grateful that I did so and told me “You got good love.” I was honestly surprised. I did not expect that just a few blocks away from the bustling main street there would be a quiet community working to help the homeless.

After leaving the yard we walked on to visit several parks. In total we visited about five. Of those, the three that I remember the most are Bowne Park, Kissena Corridor Park, and Kissena Park. As we traverse to and from each, I notice that the areas between displayed trees blooming with exquisite flowers, all pink, but of three different types. The buildings looked fairly modern. We passed by an elementary school, which Gautam told me had not been there six years ago, and soon we were at our first park. We were looking for people who had some spare time for an interview. It was interesting to see the different activities that took place at different parks. Some boasted large jungle gyms where children tried to enjoy their weekend as best as possible while their parents watched, relaxing, but keeping an eye out to make sure their children were safe. Other parks were smaller, and rather than children, had groups of elderly people playing, or watching others play go (a Chinese board game). Others still included baseball fields, cricket fields, basketball courts, and tennis courts.

While visiting the tennis area of Kissena Park, we stopped to watch some of the residents play. Each court had players of various skill levels. We decided to watch the group we considered to be most skilled and began discussing our own experiences, or lack of experience, playing tennis. While we were talking, a gentleman a few feet away from us came over and gave us some tips on how to become good tennis players. His name was Jack Amiot. Of the many helpful tips he gave us, one that I found most interesting was that he said the Flushing sector of the USTA (United States Tennis Association), a tennis instruction institutions based in Flushing, “sucks”. Apparently, if one wants to get good tennis lessons, they need to head over to Randall’s Island. He told us that if we wanted to play at this particular court we would need to pay $20. Apparently, a tennis permit at the park used to cost $60, until Mayor Bloomberg altered how pricing works. Now, a permit costs $20 for students and seniors, but $200 for everyone else.

After discussing improving our tennis skills, we started talking about his life. He was born in Cuba and came to the U.S. when he was two years old. While he is Cuban by birth, by heritage he is a mix of races, none of which include Cuban. His father came to Cuba from London when he was three years old. His mother came from Spain to Cuba when she was four years old. Both wanted to immigrate to the U.S., but due to the immigration process, it took some time to actually make it over. In Jack’s case, as he said, it took “an entire generation” to do so. Jack was raised Irish Catholic, but when he researched his heritage a few years back he discovered that he was a descendent of one of the first Jewish families to live in France and later England. As a child he went to Catholic school, though he apparently did not learn much there, became an artist after attending Adelphi University, raised a family, and gave tennis lessons. A severely sprained Achilles tendon ended his tennis instruction career, but his art career continues and he is currently trying to open a non-profit organization with the goal of helping people of all ages learn to read and write in English.

After bidding Jack farewell and departing from Kissena part, we walked to Sangas Pizzeria. Sangas is different from most pizza places I’ve been to because they sell snack-sized whole pizzas as opposed to slices or large pies. There were several families there. While they ate, or waited for their orders, they attentively watched the movie displaying on the T.V. screen in the corner. After eating, we went to Gautam’s house to go over our findings.

Flushing is a diverse area not only when it comes to ethnicity, but also culturally and historically. As with any neighborhood in New York, painting a portrait that captures all the important aspects of Flushing, while also adding a few interesting little details, is not easy for an unskilled artist. However, I hope that the portrait I painted does justice to the intricate design and vibrant color that defined my experience of Flushing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Works Cited

 

“Flushing: Queens Neighborhood Profile.” About.com Queens, NY. N.p., n.d. Web. 07 May 2014.

“History of Flushing Meeting.” History of Flushing Meeting. N.p., n.d. Web. 07 May 2014.

“The History Of Flushing.” The Peopling of New York 2011. N.p., n.d. Web. 07 May 2014.

“Leaving So Soon?” Security Alert:. N.p., n.d. Web. 07 May 2014.

“The Peopling of New York 2013 W/ Professor Berger Macaulay Seminar 2 @ CCNY.” The Peopling of New York 2013 W Professor Berger RSS. N.p., n.d. Web. 07 May 2014.

“Repeal of the Chinese Exclusion Act, 1943 – 1937–1945 – Milestones – Office of the Historian.” Repeal of the Chinese Exclusion Act, 1943 – 1937–1945 – Milestones – Office of the Historian. N.p., n.d. Web. 06 May 2014.

“U.S. Immigration Legislation: 1965 Immigration and Nationality Act (Hart-Cellar Act).” U.S. Immigration Legislation: 1965 Immigration and Nationality Act (Hart-Cellar Act). N.p., n.d. Web. 07 May 2014.

“A Walk Through Queens . History | Thirteen/WNET.” A Walk Through Queens . History | Thirteen/WNET. N.p., n.d. Web. 07 May 2014.

“The New New Yorkers: Characteristics of the City’s Foreign-Born Population, 2013 Edition”, 07 May 2014.

http://www.nyc.gov/html/dcp/pdf/census/nny2013/nny_2013.pdf

Marble Hill is a small, intriguing neighborhood just above the northern tip of Manhattan, where the neighborhood of Inwood is located. While it is officially a part of the Borough of Manhattan, it seems decidedly Bronx in both feel and aesthetic. It is quickly becoming a commercial hub with one commercial development built in 2004 that houses a Target, a Starbucks, and a Marshalls on 225^th Street and Broadway and another commercial development underway around 227^th St and Broadway.

With a population of 9,481 and an area of 0.145 square miles, it is considered a densely populated neighborhood at 65,410 people per square mile when compared with the average population density of the Bronx, 31,709 people per square mile. Yet when you compare the population density of Marble Hill with that of Manhattan, 70,629 people per square mile, it is slightly below average. These comparisons speak to something greater about Marble Hill, how it is not quite Manhattan or not quite the Bronx, it is its own entity and has an identity altogether separate than that of either Borough.

To begin, a brief history is in order. Marble Hill has been occupied since the Dutch Colonial period. On August 18, 1646, Governor Willem Kieft, the Dutch director-general of New Netherland, signed a land grant to Mattius Jansen van Keulan and Huyck Aertsen that now comprises the neighborhood of Marble Hill. At this point in Marble Hill’s history, it was still a part of Manhattan with the Harlem River (Spuytent Duyvel Creek is the name of the portion around Marble Hill) weaving around it as shown by the map below:

1885 map of Northern Manhattan

When hostilities broke out at the start of the Revolutionary War, the Continental Army constructed a fort on Marble Hill. By November 1776, the fort had been taken over by Hessian Forces. In 1817 Curtis and John Bolton purchased land in the area and built a mill where the Metro North station is now situated. In 1891, Darius C. Crosby conceived the name of Marble Hill from the local deposits of Dolomite marble, a relatively soft rock that overlay the Marble Hill and Inwood communities. In 1895, the Harlem River Canal was constructed in response to an increase in commercial shipping traffic thus severing Marble Hill from mainland Manhattan. Marble Hill remained its own island until 1914 when Spuyten Duyvil Creek was landfilled:

Map of Marble Hill from 1900

Saint Stephen’s Methodist Church, a fixture of the Marble Hill community, was built in 1898 on Marble Hill Avenue and 228^th Street. It is one of the oldest religious institutions in the area. By the roaring twenties Marble Hill had acquired its current street layout.

In 1901, the 1 Train (formerly IRT Train) was extended from 145^th Street to 242^nd Street with a stop at 225^th Street right in the middle of Marble Hill. This development sparked interest land speculators and six-story apartments were quickly constructed. By the late 1950s, urban renewal came to the are and the Marble Hill Houses were constructed between Exterior Street, 225 Street, and Broadway. John F. Kennedy High School, 99 Terrace View Avenue, opened in 1972 and overlooks the Harlem River.

Marble Hill was formerly a bastion for the Jewish and Irish, but now has become around 33 percent Black and 75 percent Hispanic. Whites only make up 8 percent of the population, and in recent years the neighborhood has seen and influx of both Asian and Hispanic immigrants. When speaking with some of the residents, I found out that the Hispanic immigrants come primarily from three countries, the Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, and Mexico. While more and more immigrants poor in from Puerto Rico and Mexico, the Dominican population has begun to dwindle in what was formerly a popular Dominican neighborhood. Marble Hill is now 36.4 percent foreign born compared with the New York City average of 22.2 percent.

Of the population of Marble Hill, 3,903 are males and 5,577 are females. Of the households, 49.1 percent are family households, 23.9 percent contain married couples, 10 percent contain married couples with children, and 26.5 percent contain single mothers with children.  The median age of males in Marble Hill is 33.1 years old for males and 41.0 years old for females.

Of the 9,481 reported residents, 3,433 live in the Marble Hill Houses, a project in the center of the neighborhood. The project is composed of eleven buildings, fourteen to fifteen stories high. There are approximately 1,682 apartments throughout the 16.64 acre complex. Like most other projects, its appearance was a bit grim and dystopian with its dull-brown bricks, dilapidated windows, and menacing size relative to the other buildings in the neighborhood. While heading north on the 1 Train, it appears on your right, east of Broadway. It is bordered by two shopping centers, one finished and another in progress. It is at the foot of what I assume the Hill that Marble Hill is named after. On the western edge of Broadway lie both storefronts and residential apartments.

After exploring east Marble Hill and Broadway I was severely underwhelmed by the neighborhood. Perhaps there was nothing unique about the neighborhood I had anticipated to be enthralling as I began to head west. I was thoroughly disappointed as I walked a long 225^th Street, looking out onto the Hudson River. It was at this point that I looked to my right and discovered a shabby-looking art-deco apartment building. Although the apartment was in a state of decay, it had a dusted beauty that offered hope and redemption for the neighborhood in my eyes. I turned onto Marble Hill Avenue, hopeful once again, and was greeted by a magnificent sight. The winding street snaked its way through a series of gorgeous twentieth-century homes that each glowed with a different, magnificent aura. I made my way down the street, each home appearing more impressive than the next. Trees accented the sidewalk, and each house had its own separate lawn garnished with beautiful landscaping and gardens. This was the Marble Hill I had been searching for. Marble Hill suddenly became the place where you could own a lawn in Manhattan.

I walked back to Broadway and approached some residents with questions on the neighborhood. Most of my interviewees were either reluctant to talk or had nothing to talk about. I asked a young, Middle Eastern man behind the cash register in a deli what he thought of the neighborhood. He gave me a succinct answer, “It’s fine,” he said. I inquired about what he did in his free time in the neighborhood and he said that he played soccer and that the majority of younger people living in the neighborhood either played soccer or basketball in their free time. I then approached an elderly Black woman exiting the Marble Hill Houses and asked her what she thought of the neighborhood. She said that she thought it was fine as well, and that she enjoyed going to church. What church she was talking about, she never specified. She continued by saying that a lot of the older people in the neighborhood went to church and that was where they interacted. So, I began to form an image of Marble Hill as a community of reserved people that went about their business the day without much interaction before returning to their homes.

I then approached two Black street-vendors, a man and woman named Edward and Tanya. I asked them what they thought of the neighborhood, where they lived, etc. Edward’s eyes lit up, it was as if he had been waiting for someone to ask. “It’s ok,” he said and then he looked up at me, “People mind their own business, there isn’t a lot of crime, it’s home you know?” I inquired further about Marble Hill and asked if there was any sense of community. He said, “Like I said before people mind their own business, people wake up, go to work then come home, and stay in their apartment.” He immediately validated the image of Marble Hill I had had in my mind. Edward lived in the Marble Hill Houses and he said that as far as projects go, the Marble Hill Houses were pretty good. He said that Marble Hill was not in gang territory so crime was not much of an issue, he then continued and said, “I’ve been stuck up,” he paused for a moment, “and I’ve returned the favor.” He laughed casually and then got up from his seat and helped a browsing customer. He returned and I asked him who lived in Marble Hill to which he replied, “mostly Blacks and Hispanics.” I then asked if people gor a long for the most part and he said, “of course, people just mind their own business.” Edward then mentioned how a lot of people in Marble Hill were now moving to the Pocono Mountains for cheap homes. I asked him if there was any other explanation for the migration to the Poconos but he did not have one.

The sense I got talking to Edward was that Marble Hill, apart from the occasional robbery or shooting, was not crime ridden or ripe with racial tensions. It was a relatively peaceful neighborhood with cheap rent and good business. One of the only issues it faces is its school, John F. Kennedy High School, which has suffered from over-crowding, poor leadership, and abrasive restructuring for a while now. Aside from the school and purely looking at the statistics it seems that families do not really exist in the traditional sense in Marble Hill. It has a high percentage of single mothers, which is a common issue but a poignant one nonetheless. Marble Hill also lacks the pride and sense of community that other NYC neighborhoods have in abundance. However, no neighborhood is without some problems.

John F. Kennedy High School

In conclusion, Marble Hill is a wonderful little neighborhood just above the northern tip of Manhattan. What it lacks in community it makes up for in architecture. Perhaps the most striking thing about the neighborhood is its diversity in everything, people, houses, streets, etc. While it may feel like the Bronx at first it does not have the isolation and urban decay typical of many Bronx neighborhoods. Its identity remains hard to pin point, not quite the Bronx and not quite Manhattan, it is simply Marble Hill.

The Untrendy Trend

It was time. The sun was directly overhead. I hurried towards the agreed rendezvous point. Time was of the essence. Eventually, I ended up in front of a dump of a restaurant. The sign was cracked and weathered, and the door was covered in grease. City Café, I thought to myself, what a quaint place for a meeting. I cracked open the door and was blasted by a mix of steam and smoke. The odor of fried shrimp wafted throughout the restaurant. I saw my informant at the table in the far right of the room. With a single hand motion he singled me to sit down and for the waiter to take his order. As the waiter took my order, my informant leaned over and asked “do you have it?” I nodded as I showed him the book. “I do but will you uphold your end of the bargain and tell me about Eighth Avenue, Uncle?”

I have come to Eighth Avenue, Sunset Park for two reasons. The first is to give an old SAT book to my uncle so my cousin can use it. The second is to learn how Eighth Avenue has changed since I moved to Queens. Of course, I had done some of my own research on how Eighth Avenue came to be beforehand.

There is no question that New York City is a magnet for immigrants. The promise of riches and opportunities are just as widespread today as they were in the past. These promises were what drew in the Chinese immigrants, specifically the Cantonese immigrants from Guangzhou. They quickly established Chinatown in Manhattan as the central hub of all Chinese immigrants. Most Chinese immigrants moved to Chinatown because they wanted the security of being with their own ethnicity. However, not all of the immigrants settled into Manhattan. Others sought to be different, there are always the nonconformists, and began to seek a neighborhood outside of Manhattan. Their search led to Eighth Avenue Brooklyn. For the Chinese this was stroke of good luck. They were in the right place at the right time. Before, the avenue was strictly Scandinavian. However, the local economy later collapsed. The Brooklyn Waterfront, the source of not only water but most of the Scandinavian resident’s jobs, had recently closed. 90% of the original Scandinavian storefronts were left vacant, afterwards.[1] The Chinese quickly seized opportunity and dethroned the Scandinavians. Everything was just right. The rent was low. It was just a quick train ride to Manhattan Chinatown. Even the avenue number was a sign of good fortune: the number eight is a lucky number in Chinese. The abandoned properties were replaced, practically overnight, with restaurants and Asian groceries stories. The garment factories followed the immigrants like a shadow. They desired the cheap labor immigrants provided. Eighth Avenue still continues to expand due to immigration. The continuing gentrification of Manhattan Chinatown, that started this decade, is raising rents and forcing immigrants to seek refuge in Eighth Avenue. The same gentrification turned away the recent surge in immigration from Fuzhou, China and guided (forced) them to Brooklyn. Now Manhattan Chinatown is more akin to a tourist attraction than an ethnic community. Due to that, Eighth Avenue has become the largest, both in size and population, and truest Chinatown.

Before, I met my Uncle, I wanted to walk across Eighth Avenue and examine its demographics. In terms of appearance, Eighth Avenue can be called a dump, in a nice way. There are trashcans full of garbage and the streets are narrow and packed. There are no decorative buildings like in the other Chinatown. There is no gilded image to appeal to tourists. Instead Eighth Avenue looks just like a simple suburb full of immigrants. The buildings are older and almost extraordinarily plain. There are no signs of the big city. Nothing exceeds three stories in this avenue. It almost as if Eighth Avenue is in its own bubble.

There is a noticeable immigrant presence on the streets as well. Small watch fixing or shoe shining stands run by elderly immigrants populated the sidewalks. This used to be commonplace in Manhattan Chinatown, as well. However, the sight has become rare in Manhattan Chinatown due to the increasing gentrification. Kids, no older than five years old, ran carefree through the mobs of people trying to avoid stepping on them. These were all the kids of immigrant families that recently moved into the neighborhood as the pharmacist I used to visit kindly told me. The immigrant community is also tightly woven. There are small stands covered in slips of paper with addresses of rentable apartments that people gather around. The community reaches out to help others whether they are strangers or friends. These gatherings are not to be confused with a cultist ritual like what I first thought.

As I devour the beef tripe noodles I ordered, my Uncle begins to point out all that has begun to change. The first thing he does is ask if I saw anything peculiar on the streets on the way here. My mind immediately points out the guttural yells of Fuzhounese I heard. There racial slur that Fuzhounese never talk but only yell, and after today I can see why. Uncle nods his head in agreement.

These new immigrants are predominately from the Fuzhou province in China. They started to arrive in the tens of thousands during the 1980s; this is what originally caused Manhattan Chinatown and Brooklyn Chinatown to expand. Now, there is still a lot of immigrants from Fuzhou, so much that the Fuzhounese have begun to outnumber the Cantonese in Brooklyn Chinatown. This is especially true where most of the people on the sidewalk are either Fuzhounese elderly or immigrants with their first generation children in tow. Even most of the fare is now Fuzhounese. The savory dishes of the Cantonese have now been phased out by the slightly sweet and sour dishes of the Fuzhounese. In fact City Café was one of these new Fuzhou restaurants.

There is also the gentrification of Manhattan Chinatown that is forcing many Chinese Americans to move to out. One of my family’s friends is always complaining about her increasing rent. She may be exaggerating when she says “ The rent is practically flying. I might as well give them my kidney now”. But there are many others in her situation. More and more people are moving to Brooklyn Chinatown as a result. “Sunset Park is now New York’s largest Chinatown, with 34,218 Chinese residents, up from 19,963 in 2000, a 71% increase. Bustling Flushing ranks second, with 33,526 Chinese, up from 17,363, a 93% increase.” (Beekman,2011)

The local economy is booming as a result. New restaurants are opened each day and each time further away from Eighth Avenue. The produce is of better quality and cheaper as well. Ironic since people who lived in Brooklyn used to go to Chinatown for groceries due to the better quality and prices. Now the alternative has become the . There are new trendy restaurants opening as well. Now there is an influx of Fuzhounese cuisine, and trendy Asian foods like bubble tea. There is even a stand selling takoyaki, a Japanese street food that is a ball of fried dough with a bit of octopus tentacles inside, which was crowded by college students all following the recent Japanese food craze.

This led my uncle onto his point. With all of these people moving in, and the boom in the local economy, Eighth Avenue has become more exposed. In fact, I even saw college students walking down the street, a sight I nearly gasped at. No one besides Cantonese immigrants ever ventured into Eighth Avenue when I used to live in the area.

As my uncle explained, this is all because Eighth Avenue is starting to become trendy.  Eighth Avenue used to be untrendy because it only had to appeal to immigrants. However, sometimes something can become so untrendy that it ends up becoming a new trend. Before, Manhattan Chinatown was the trendy place; many people flocked to it for its unique smorgasbord of Asian culture not previously found anywhere else. However, that attention eventually petered out because it is now too well known. There is no more excitement or feeling of venturing into the unknown. Now the trendsetters are looking for a new place and this just so happened to be Brooklyn Chinatown. My uncle is glad that soon his real estate will become valuable, as developers will soon poach onto the area like vultures. He also convinced me to buy an apartment there for when the prices eventually go up. Most of the people I did interview on the streets also complained about the increase in immigrants and tourists. It is great that they have more people to talk to but it also annoying to have some many people crowding the small blocks, markets, and restaurants. Especially the white people, as nicely as I can translate the Cantonese slur they used.

I finished my meal, thanked my Uncle for his time and promised to tutor his son in return for the help today. As I walked out of the restaurant I reflected on the conversation. In short, Eighth Avenue is quickly becoming the third, and biggest Chinatown. It has gone from a small neighborhood only the local immigrants ventured into to the site of the newest trends. It is only a matter of time before Brooklyn Chinatown gains the fame, Manhattan Chinatown had. This then leads into the question of what is afterwards? There are always the other Chinatowns are forming. For example there is a Chinatown forming in Avenue U. There is also an emerging Chinatown in Elmhurst. However that is all in the future. Right now, Eighth Avenue is the Chinatown of New York.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

References

1)     A Bluer Sky: A History of the Brooklyn Chinese American Association. Brooklyn Chinese American Association, 2009.Web. May 1, 2014.

2)     Beekman, Daniel “The Changing Chinatowns: Move Over Manhattan, Sunset Park is Now Home To The Most Chinese In NYC.” Daily News. Web. 5 Aug. 2011 Web. May 2, 2014.

Twenty Miles from Times Square

 

When people think “the Big Apple,” huge skyscrapers and bright billboards come to mind. Although the nickname refers to the collective New York City as a whole, Manhattan rules when it comes to making impressions on visitors or other people foreign to the Empire state. But New York City has five boroughs – everyone knows plenty about the ever-changing frontier of culture and technology that is the big city, but what about the quieter, less commercial, more isolated areas of NYC? Or, more specifically, for example – what about Staten Island?

            Founded in the 17^th century but recognized as part of New York in the 19^th, Staten Island is the smallest borough and also known as the borough of Richmond County. Three still-standing historic landmarks of Staten Island include the small neighborhood of butter churns and brick houses known as historic Richmond town, the Alice Austen house (now a museum showcasing the female photographer’s life) located in Rosebank at the beginning of the borough-long Hylan Boulevard, and the rumored-to-be-haunted Dutch Colonial Conference House located at the end of Hylan Boulevard.

Staten Island, with its total population nearing 500,000 (a number only a fraction, of, say, Brooklyn’s 2.5 million), accounts for a mere 3 percent of foreign-born citizens of New York City. This has many implications, but the real truth is most people have either lived in Staten Island for decades or have simply moved there from another part of the city. I discovered that the latter is common in the traveling patterns of the people around me: Joseph of eastern Dongan Hills, a 44-year-old Puerto Rican originally from Brooklyn, decided that he was fed up with the crowded streets and terrible parking in his home borough and swore to his months-old son that the family would be living in spacy suburban Staten Island by his first birthday. As for the former case, I learned that Gabriela, a teenage aspiring artist of northern South Beach, is currently living in the house her father lived in as a child. Regardless of Staten Island’s deep roots, however, it has seen a 36% increase in immigrant population in the decade after the turn of the millennium, the largest increase of any borough.

Since Staten Island is so small, natives often divide the borough colloquially by using the terms South Shore, North Shore, West Shore, and East Shore, because, of course, it is an island. To understand even more the appeal and characteristics of suburban life, I took a walk around the upper East Shore, specifically Dongan Hills and South Beach.

Wide streets, quiet residential neighborhoods, a boardwalk, and a beach – the East Shore in a few words.

Slater Boulevard, which transitions Dongan Hills into South Beach, sees many passersby looking to travel along one of Staten Island’s main roads, either Hylan Boulevard or Father Capodanno Boulevard.

 

The first thing a newcomer would notice in the East Shore residential neighborhoods is the space. There is always a level sidewalk to be found running parallel to a noticeably large street, already making leisurely walks a very real possibility. On a spring day the greenery is easy to spot, from the sidewalk patches to the lawns of the residents to the trees growing between the electrical wires. The houses, either years old or springing up as of late as houses always seem to be doing in South Beach, look beautifully similar as if from a cartoon depicting a “perfect” neighborhood. With a pool in their back yards and a car or two in the front, residents live homely lives in this Staten Island neighborhood very compatible with families.

Caucasians make up the largest percentage of the demographic of Staten Island. From Irish Americans to Polish Americans, the percentage of Caucasians is roughly a whopping 70%. Looking at the overall demographic, Hispanics such as myself make up a mere 7%. However, Rob Fortunato of Dongan Hills, his wife, and their three girls represent the most prevalent nationality on Staten Island – Italian Americans. Totaling 35% of the demographic, Italian Americans have made their presence on Staten Island very evident. Dongan Hills and South Beach combine for at least 6 Italian restaurants, some shockingly in close proximity. The Catholic and private schools on Staten Island, although currently diminishing, have been dominated by Italian Americans.

There are several small businesses along the shore of South Beach – a deli here, a small restaurant there. Most of the space of this area is taken up by residential homes, and it is an area where builders of homes focus their attention because of the large, plain-like area of plant life. The bigger businesses, however, can be found by taking a walk west to Hylan Boulevard running through Dongan Hills. Hylan Boulevard is the busiest street on Staten Island, yet the traffic only gets bad during rush hour – another facet of suburban life. Small businesses also undoubtedly have a presence: A small, worn down Italian deli called Ariemma’s with an outstanding chicken salad sits across from a florist with the same name – the two have been run by the same owner for a few decades now. During the winter months and spring months the people living in or driving by Dongan Hills get a real treat: Towards December 25^th, Ariemma’s florist is beautifully lit up with Christmas decorations, including both huge, modern inflatable snow globes and also more traditional wreaths with lighting. And once spring comes around, Ariemma’s showcases gorgeous flowers that shine just as brightly – from carnations to chrysanthemums. It is also important to note when considering work on Staten Island that Staten Island is largely considered a “bedroom community,” that is, a place where people who work elsewhere live for convenience and close proximity to the heart of New York City.

As far as education in Dongan Hills and South Beach, there are several public schools; however, most high schoolers on the island aim to attend Staten Island Technical High School in New Dorp, ranked in the top 50 schools in the country, and most younger kids attend private or Catholic schools including St. John Villa Academy and St. Joseph Hill Academy, located just eight minutes from Dongan Hills (making for one short but stressful ride for parents). If you aren’t driving around Staten Island, as approximately half of its residents own registered vehicles, you’re likely taking the bus – both the s78 and s79 stop at Dongan Hills. South Beach is more for drivers, as Father Capodanno is the main road and also pleasantly paved and broad, and at night sometimes residents of Dongan Hills can hear the groaning engines indicative of the illegal racing habits of young people in South Beach.

South Beach is a term literally used to refer to the scenic beach looking out at the Atlantic Ocean where the famous Polar Plunge has been held, but there is much more to this area than some small businesses and a beach – The Franklin Delano Roosevelt boardwalk, for one thing.

The view of the boardwalk from Father Capodanno Boulevard – if you look closely, you can see a small collection of lightposts, which is a circular resting place for boardwalk bikers, runners, or walkers.

Athletics, both recreational and competitive, have a huge presence on Staten Island – here some boys can be seen playing soccer in a field parallel to the boardwalk in the background and also Father Capodanno Boulevard.

This leaping dolphin fountain is located at one of the main entrances to the boardwalk, and has been a staple in the childhood memories of natives such as myself. In the hotter summer months, the water will emerge and create a constant elaborate array beneath the dolphins.

 

The boardwalk is a place of recreation and relaxation. Fields, parks, bike routes, food vendors – everything you could ask for on a nice day by the beach is present here. The Vanderbilt hall, located right on the boardwalk, is a snazzy place for a large celebration with dancing and catering – catering, perhaps, by the South Fin Grill, a steak and seafood restaurant attached to the Vanderbilt that receives many positive reviews from its patrons. A flea market will pop up now and again, but the real special gatherings are the “Back to the Beach” Festivals, the first one occurring at the start of summer in June: Performers, food vendors, merchants, and people looking for a fun night gather at the boardwalk to hear music, eat, and have a good time in preparation for the night’s main attraction – the fireworks. People cover the beach with blankets and wait in the dark with anticipation for the heart-pounding, sky-brightening, colorful light show to begin.

All seems quiet and settling in this small area of the East Shore. However, there is a downside to living here that only rears its ugly head once every few months – the flooding. With most homes sitting just five feet above sea level, the sewer system holds great responsibility in filtering rainwater from the streets of Dongan Hills, and it simply doesn’t make the cut. Basements throughout this neighborhood have felt the inadequacies in the piping – in other words,, many residents have had the misfortune of rainwater and sometimes even sewer water entering their homes in everything from puddles to unstoppable streams and have found that they are in charge of preventing this due largely to the sewer system’s weaknesses. This issue has been addressed by the fire department and even the local news on New York 1, but it continues to cause hardship.

Related to this issue, something massive happened recently in this area’s history that led it to show a lot of character. This something was Hurricane Sandy, and living up the street from a beach can cause huge problems when a wildly powerful storm hits. Essentially, living in this area after the storm you were guaranteed several days without electricity, and if you were especially unlucky as my family was, your home would be hit with a four-foot-high wall of ocean water. The water could easily render your car useless, your garage ruined, and your backyard in disarray. The neighborhood in the wake of the storm looked like something from an apocalyptic movie – cars and trees strewn about, people roaming the streets or putting many of their belongings out on the curb for trash collection. Some lost little, some lost everything.

 

 

 

 

 

But, the people banded together – and even though the government wouldn’t always offer this neighborhood compensation money directly or buy out homes that shouldn’t be lived in any longer, food was easily found and often generously given and volunteers to help with your cleanup process were plenty. Large dunes were built on South Beach to attempt to keep the ocean water where it belongs. During this time signs such as the one above appeared around Dongan Hills and South Beach and remain there, showcasing some character for the neighborhoods. Now, residents live their quiet suburban lives and hope that a tragedy such as this never happens again, and that the peace and harmony of the East Shore remains.

 

 

 

 

Bibliography

 

1. Tumarkin, Laurel, and Jonathan Bowles. “Home | Center for an Urban Future.” Home | Center for an Urban Future. Staten Island Economic Development Corporation, n.d. Web. 04 May 2014.

 

2. “Staten Island History.” Staten Island History. Staten Island Historian, n.d. Web. 04 May 2014.

 

3. Lobo, Arun P., and Joseph Salvo. “The Newest New York.” Nyc.gov. Department of City Planning, 2013. Web. 04 May 2014.

 

As Dane Fearon and I began to walk down Bowne Street, one of the oldest roads in Flushing, we saw a small fenced courtyard filled with old shirts, old pants, old socks, old books and other miscellaneous items. As we wandered in, we saw a Korean woman sitting on a chair with a money box in front of her. Apparently, the items displayed were for sale, and whoever bought them had to put their payment inside the money box. Dane started to talk to the Korean lady, but as the lady couldn’t speak English, she motioned to another lady within the courtyard who knew English. This other lady initially greeted us sternly, with a sharp “How can I help you?” Once we asked her about what was going on, she relaxed her attitude, and said warmly, “We are part of the Jesus Love House Mission. We are hosting a fundraiser to help homeless people living in the buildings close by”. She pointed at the one behind her as an example. They were part of a Presbyterian Church, and this was one of their acts of service. She asked us whether we wanted to buy anything, and when we said no but donated money in the money-box anyway, she bid us farewell saying “You Got Good Love”.

During the 1970s, the economic downturn in the US had an adverse effect on Flushing. Almost 40% of the early immigrants, mostly Irish communities, left to look for better neighborhoods (“NYC2010”). This created a population gap in Flushing, which people from Korea rushed to fill during the 1980s. The first Koreans came in large numbers in search of low rent, un-crowded streets and a close access to Manhattan via subway. Flushing was their natural choice for settlement because it contained all three criteria within one neighborhood. Therefore, the Korean population rose from almost nothing to around 64,000 in a city of approximately 200,000 people – a solid 32-36% percent of the total (Junaid et. al.). The majority of the Korean immigrants are not blue-collared workers as some would think, but are middle-class with a decent education. Yet, their lack of ability to speak English seriously hampered their economic mobility in the ‘80s and ‘90s. Many of them became self-employed, started a whole range of Korean businesses along Union Street, a road in between Bowne and Main Streets. They formed credit unions (‘Gyeh’), a group of business owners who pooled their money into a central community chest, which they could withdraw from if in need of money. This particular practice stems from the East Asian value of filial piety, a sense of giving to the community. For more examples of Korean businesses, I personally remember a Lee’s Tae Kwon Do martial arts school on Union Street, where many children in the neighborhood used to congregate for lessons 10 years ago. It was an example of a small business, teaching local kids Korean martial arts for a fee.

Most of the Koreans who immigrated to Flushing were Christian, which caused the proliferation of Korean Protestant churches during the ‘80s and ‘90s. These churches, to this day, are powerful centers for people to congregate (also a cause of many traffic jams). These churches also provide a variety of services like fundraisers (such as the fundraiser we bumped into), food distributions or English classes for people who don’t speak the language very well. The Korean-town neighborhood of Flushing is located mainly in Union Street and Bowne Street, east of the famous Flushing Main Street.

The Korean population of Flushing is notable in the area just mentioned. Instead, if you go down Kissena Blvd, we get a number of residential buildings with a vibrant South Asian community. Its biggest subgroup is from India, which constitutes around 62% of the total South Asian community (Salvo et. al.). The next biggest subgroup is from Pakistan, constituting 25% of the South Asian group, while Bangladeshis constitute 12% of the group. This group is not as vibrant economically as the Koreans in terms of small businesses, but Indian businesses like Patel Brothers, Chandigarh Fashion, and Dosa Hutt do exist. Patel Brothers is the only place in Flushing to get South Asian food items, South Asian spices, and other commodities. Dosa Hutt serves small scale South Indian food while Chandigarh Fashion sells formal Indian clothing. These two businesses form the commercial spine of this community. Yet, during the early 2000s, based on personal experience, many more Indian shops and restaurants would be open to the public in the area near Patel Brothers, but they all slowly moved away and got replaced.

However, the Indian religious community is very vibrant, thanks to the Hindu Temple in Bowne Street and Holly Ave – a great congregating institution for Hindus not only in Flushing but around New York City (Bloom et. al.). Several other Hindu temples have also sprung up nearby, which become congregation places for their devotees. With these institutions in place, immigrants have a solid way to pass on Hindu traditions to their children. In my case, I have learned Indian Classical Music through a teacher I had gotten to know through the Hindu Temple. These congregations are not limited to the religion of Hinduism. Many Sikh temples and mosques also exist in Flushing, where South Asian Sikhs and Muslims can congregate. In fact, there was a New York Times article in 1983 about a Sikh resident of Flushing who combined his old culture with the new culture he acquired (“INDIANS…” ).

Indian activities, such as the sport cricket, are often held at different parts of the neighborhood. When I was walking with Dane across Kissena Corridor Park, we saw a group of South Asians using the provided field to play cricket amongst themselves. Several times, I have seen cricket being played on the playground next to my building, where small children ran around with toy cricket bats and tennis balls (Although cricket, strictly speaking, is not an “Indian” sport, I consider it to be one in this case because Indian people are usually very, very obsessed with cricket).

It turns out the name Flushing was a mispronunciation of a town in the Netherlands called Vlissingen. The area, during the 1600s, was initially named Vlissingen, after a seaport town in mainland Netherlands, but when the English took New Amsterdam over to make it New York, they named the small town Flushing. But before then, during the time of Peter Stuyvesant, Flushing was known as the home for persecuted Quakers who couldn’t practice their religion freely due to Stuyvesant. Even at that time, Flushing was a symbol for religious freedom. Its 200+ places for worship within a 2.5 square mile area prove that to this day.

During our walk in Flushing, Dane and I managed to get one full interview with a person living in Flushing (and even used to play tennis to prove it) who wasn’t part of the three main ethnicities of Flushing today. His name was Jack Amiot, and he was raised as an Irish Catholic. He moved to Flushing at age 2 during the late 1940s. Interestingly, he was born in Cuba, where his parents were staying for an interim period before coming to America. But since he was raised Irish Catholic, I would like to think of him as a representative of the old immigrants of Flushing – the Irish and Jewish populations. He was a big tennis player and coach before he severely sprained his Achilles tendon, which put him out of action for many years. His ancestors were Jewish – they were one of the very wealthy Jewish Barons of England at the time of King Henry VII. So, was he Jewish too? It was interesting to meet such a person of mixed ancestry in Flushing, as the ethnic groups today traditionally don’t mix in a large scale. More than 2/3rds of the entire population in Flushing are foreign-born, but it is very clear which country they came from and what ethnic group they belong to. To meet a person of mixed ancestry living in Flushing was an interesting experience.

This paper cannot qualify as a neighborhood portrait of Flushing without an assessment of the largest racial group in Flushing now, the Chinese population. The Chinese population is the most recent growth trend of today, and it has brought many changes to Flushing recently. Many of these changes have been good. For example, many new malls have sprung up displaying Chinese food courts, Chinese fashion, Chinese music, etc (Roleke). Many Chinese restaurants have also opened up near the junction between Kissena Blvd and Main Street. At the same time, some changes caused controversy. Many Korean and Indian shops and restaurants were displaced and replaced by giant Chinese supermarkets. The Chinese influx has caused its own “gentrification” of sorts, which have caused problems such as overcrowding and steadily rising rent prices. Korean and Indian populations have recently been declining, at rates such as 33% and 23% respectively. This type of gentrification is not really economic in nature, since Flushing still contains a major proportion of low income residents, indicating that Flushing is not an expensive neighborhood. Yet, this still remains a problem as small Korean shops, Indian Shops, and even (interestingly) American retailers are being replaced by Chinese supermalls.

The Chinese population brings their own flavor into the ethnic mixture of Flushing. Their passion for their children’s education is reflected by their many test prep centers and tuition center that exist around Main Street and Kissena Blvd. The most notable one stands next to my building. Named “ABC-Math”, it took students from all backgrounds to coach them for the SATs, AP courses and other high school classes.

I believe that the concept of Flushing, what Flushing means to those who live there, is a microcosm of New York City in general. Within barely 2.5 square miles of space, we find three major ethnic groups and dozens more minor ethnic groups living together in relative harmony. Yes, there do exist ethnic clashes when a sudden drastic change occurs, such as the dramatic Chinese influx into Flushing, but for the most part, we all get along, and that is the magic of Flushing. What makes Flushing unique is the proliferation of different institutions for different groups built and mixed together in this small space. Flushing has been promoting tolerance and integration ever since the 1600s, when John Bowne opened up his home to allow members of the Religious Society of Friends (Quakers) to practice their religion. In short, “We Got Good Love”.

 

References

“INDIANS IN FLUSHING BLEND 2 CULTURES.” The New York Times. The New York Times, 17 Dec. 1983. Web. 07 May 2014.

Junaid, Muhammad, Sharon Richardson, Annaliisa Gifford, and Patrick Lempert. “Flushing Koreans.” The Peopling of New York. N.p., n.d. Web. 07 May 2014.

Roleke, John. “Flushing Chinatown in Queens, New York: A Neighborhood Tour.” About.com Queens, NY. N.p., n.d. Web. 07 May 2014.

Bloom, Thalia, Shi Giang Ng Tong, Himanshu Pandey, Choong Ye, and Jason Zheng. “Flushing.” The Peopling of New York 2011. N.p., n.d. Web. 07 May 2014.

Salvo, Joseph J., Arun Peter Lobo. The “Newest”  New Yorkers. New York: , 2013. Document.

NYC2010. Population Growth and Race/Hispanic Composition. New York: 2010. Document.

 I decided to deviate from my original plan of creating a neighborhood portrait of the (Jewish) Lower East Side because I felt I had become too familiar with the territory and its history. It dawned on me that I knew more about a neighborhood I only visited a few times than my own. When Professor William Helmreich said, “You don’t know your neighborhood as well as you think you do” because you develop patterns of walking, I realized that I did not know my neighborhood at all. Because I live on the border of Dyker Heights and Bay Ridge and take the train on Borough Park, I have even more unexplored territory to uncover. Therefore, I decided to create a neighborhood portrait of Bay Ridge.

“To walk a city is not to run a city,” Mr. Helmreich said during his lecture. I realized that I had been running through New York this whole time. I quickly embraced the fast-paced New York City lifestyle and lost sight of the beautiful, culturally rich details that make each neighborhood unique. If I saw a woman sitting on her stoop, the most I would do is smile and hurriedly walk to my destination. If I saw a young man wearing a t-shirt that displayed the title of my favorite television show, I would not even consider approaching him and starting a conversation. If I saw an Asian man in his thirties dressed in a business suit, I would not dare ask him where he was going or what his occupation was. Yet, because of this project, I did just that. I learned to step outside of my comfort zone and submerge myself into Arabic/Muslim culture, learn about my neighbors (even if they are a few miles away), and explore semi-familiar territory in a new light.

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“Bay Ridge is Brooklyn’s hidden gem,” Diane enthusiastically says while sitting on her stoop on a hazy spring afternoon. Not even the foggy, cold weather could dampen her passion for her beloved neighborhood. Diane, a proud Brooklynite, has been living in the largely middle-class, southwest area of Brooklyn for over fifty years. While she celebrates her birthday with her beloved family each year, she also commemorates another wonderful year spent in her favorite neighborhood. “My family moved around quite a lot when I was younger, but I always called Bay Ridge my home. It’s filled with familiar faces and love. That is more than I can ask for,” Diane joyfully recounts. She is one of roughly 59,265 Bay Ridge residents in a family household—living with her husband of over forty years in a two-story house on 82^nd Street (2010 NYC Census).

Among the 57.5% of senior citizens living in the neighborhood, Diane notes that over the past twenty years, there have been plenty of fresh faces moving in. Slowly, young families and hopeful entrepreneurs are starting to see the beauty and convenience of living in Bay Ridge. “I have noticed a growing trend of expanding Middle Eastern restaurants and businesses—especially in 5^th Avenue,” the Bay Ridge veteran notes. Although the majority of residents are Caucasian, as accounted in the 2010 New York City Census, Asians are the second largest minority group—comprising of 13.3% of the neighborhood population. The largest minority group—Hispanic origin—account for 15.9%.

Ellen Freudenheim, in “Muslim Immigrant Communities in Brooklyn: From Egypt to Pakistan” corroborates Diane’s observations by noting not only an influx of Middle Eastern immigrants, but specifically Muslim immigrants since the 1990s. “This once largely Irish neighborhood [Bay Ridge] now has mosques, halal butcher shops, halal restaurants, and Muslim educational institutions,” Freudenheim reports. Perhaps Bay Ridge should be named “The melting pot of Brooklyn.” With at least seven churches, three synagogues, and two temples, Bay Ridge represents a community living in spiritual and cultural harmony.

The Islamic Society of Bay Ridge, located at 6807 5^th Avenue, is a safe haven and place of education and worship for many Muslim residents in what some have coined the “Borough of Churches.” (This one of Brooklyn’s many nicknames inspired Tom Seghini’s The Borough of Churches: A Novel About Brooklyn in the 1970s.) Right near the mosque and in front of the Alpine Cinemas stands a young Middle Eastern man with short, black hair, wearing a ‘24’ T-shirt. Considering ‘24’ was my favorite television show, I think initiating a conversation about it would be a good segue to learning about how he came to live in Bay Ridge.

After I boldly approach him and spark a conversation, I discover that Yousef is a native of Morocco and moved to the United States fifteen years ago. I tell him that I will be visiting Morocco in November with my “Jews of Morocco” class and ask him more about how he came to Bay Ridge. Although he was born in Fes, Morocco and seems interested in my trip, he is unable to tell me more about his birth country. After he moved to New York with his family, he never went back to visit Fes and only vaguely remembers it. Although he has lost ties to the location of his birth, he hasn’t lost touch with his culture and religion.

Similar to Diane, when I ask Yousef where he considers his home to be, he says “Bay Ridge”—not Brooklyn. When I ask him why he specifically said ‘Bay Ridge’ and not ‘Brooklyn’ or ‘New York’, he replies, “My brothers are here—right in this mosque.”

I was taken aback by his beautifully articulated words. As he pointed to the mosque, I understood that this neighborhood meant more to him than statistics and demographics. Yousef found a loving, tight-knit community that made him feel comfortable and accepted. “The population — from Lebanon, Palestine, Syria, Egypt, Yemen, Morocco and elsewhere — has mostly settled in an area bounded by 65th and 77th Streets to the north and south, and Seventh Avenue and Colonial Road to the west and east,” Kirk Semple of the New York Times notes. United by culture, ethnicity, and religion, these individuals have formed their Arabic, Middle Eastern, and/or Muslim identity in the upper portion of Bay Ridge.

As I pass by the Islamic Society of Bay Ridge, I smell shawarma and lamb soup from several Middle Eastern restaurants such as Yemen Café and Sally’s & George’s Restaurant. I see hookah lounges and tobacco shops, along with convenience stores with Arabic-speaking customers. Middle Eastern women are running ethnic clothing stores—selling decorative dresses and headscarves. Such surroundings and familiar faces make Bay Ridge residents like Yousef feel “at home.”

Despite the ethnic enclaves, ‘mom and pop’ shops, and close-knit communities, Bay Ridge is slowly succumbing to gentrification. “The median price-per-square-foot of new development in Bay Ridge jumped 7.4 percent over the past year, to $558 from $517, with the median home price jumping 14.5 percent to $655,498 from $560,037…” Amy Zimmer of DNAinfo New York reports. With the soaring housing costs, it is not surprising that chain-restaurants and big businesses are moving in. 86^th Street has been home to several large businesses, such as McDonalds, Century21, Starbucks and Payless Shoe Source. Over the past few years, TJMaxx has joined the corporate take-over, as well as the recent grand opening of a Wendy’s fast-food restaurant. In the past month, Thor Equities announced that Chipotle, the restaurant chain, would open its newest restaurant at 463 86^th Street in Bay Ridge (Real Estate Weekly).

Although Bay Ridge is not becoming the “new Williamsburg” just yet, its gentrification is attracting a younger, wealthier crowd. A young gentleman in his early thirties, William, and his fiancée are the perfect representation of this new demographic. As an attorney for a well-respected law firm in Midtown Manhattan, William recently moved to Bay Ridge in hopes of starting a family with his soon-to-be wife. Although money is not an overly significant issue in choosing a place of residence, the comparatively less expensive housing in Bay Ridge is a definite bonus. The neighborhood has a good balance of affordability, nightlife, and education for a young upper-middle class couple.

William was attracted to Brooklyn’s “more laid back” nature—in comparison to Manhattan. “There’s more room to breathe and relax from the stress of the cut-throat corporate world,” William claims, “it takes a toll on you after a few years.”

Bay Ridge is especially appealing to young couples due to its dining and nightlife. Along 3^rd, 4^th, and 5^th Avenue, there are numerous restaurants, coffee shops, bars, lounges, and dance clubs. With seven public schools and approximately eleven private schools in the area, the neighborhood makes finding a good school in the area much easier. With nine parks in close proximity, leisure activities and family outings become more convenient to host and attend. When considering what neighborhood to settle down in, couples like to William and his fiancée take similar factors into account.

While Bay Ridge is still accommodating to individuals who have lived in the neighborhood for an extended period of time, it is still welcoming to ethnic-based communities, and inviting to new, prospective residents.

 

Works Cited:

• Freudenheim, Ellen. “Muslim Immigrant Communities in Brooklyn: From Egypt to Pakistan” About.com

<http://brooklyn.about.com/od/brooklynneighborhoods/a/Muslim-Communities-In-Brooklyn.htm>

• Real Estate Weekly. “Chipotle to Open in Bay Ridge.” April 28, 2014.

<http://www.rew-online.com/2014/04/28/chipotle-to-open-in-bay-ridge/>

• Seghini, Tom. The Borough of Churches: A Novel About Brooklyn in the 1970s. 2011.
• Semple, Kirk. “Take the A Train to Little Guyana.” June 8, 2013. The New York Times.

<http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2013/06/09/nyregion/new-york-citys-newest-immigrant-enclaves.html?_r=0>

• United States Census Bureau. 2010 New York City Census

<http://maps.nyc.gov/census/>

• Zimmer, Amy. “Is Bay Ridge Poised to Become the New Williamsburg?” DNAinfo New York. April 17, 2014.

<http://www.dnainfo.com/new-york/20140417/bay-ridge/is-bay-ridge-poised-become-new-williamsburg#>

“I guess I’d move back, but only if I had to,” is what my brother’s ex-girlfriend and ex-resident of Baychester, Bellanise Davila, says as we sit down over some sodas and pizza to talk. Baychester is a working-class neighborhood located in the northeast Bronx. Its boundaries are East 222^nd St. to the north, the New England Thruway to the east, Pelham Parkway to the south, and Boston Road to the west.

The Bronx, as a borough, is notoriously neglected. Perhaps the reason for this is the constant shuffle of people that marks Baychester specifically. The neighborhood went from a mainly Italian, German, and Irish area after the second world war to an area inhabited by Hispanics and African Americans. And the reasons for moving in and moving out are the same: cheaper rent and more space and opportunity. However, what really defines Baychester, to me, is its undeniable sense of community despite its constant demographic change.

Last spring, Bella and my nephew Adrian moved from an apartment in the Edenwald projects in Baychester to an apartment upstate in Poughkeepsie: “I needed to get out, you know, for Adrian.” Bella moved to the Bronx from Bushwick, Brooklyn, a predominantly Hispanic neighborhood, when she left high school in search of a place for herself and her newborn son. Crime and violence were rampant in Bushwick during her childhood. Bella talks of the time one of her classmates (at Grover Cleveland High, where many Brooklyn kids went to school) stuffed her in a locker. She chomps on some ice: “Yeah, I’m serious. You know I’m skinny, but I don’t take shit. And Alexis, she was huge! Like 5’10, 200 pounds. So you know what I did? I took a desk and hit her over the head with it.” Bella was expelled.

She continues, “There was a lot of shit going on in Bushwick. Like, mad violence. No opportunities. It wasn’t like that in the Bronx. I didn’t have to worry about me or my son.” The rent was also much lower in the Bronx than in Brooklyn. Bella found an apartment on 225^th St. and Schieffelin Avenue and stayed there for five years. She laughs: “The government helped me out too though. I’m not gonna front.”

Baychester, to Bella, never became her home. She felt like an outsider as a Puerto Rican and Dominican woman living in a neighborhood in which more than half of its residents are black. “To be real with you, it didn’t bother me, but I did feel like out of place. I was used to Bushwick where all the girls dressed like me and we’d call each other cholas on the street. It wasn’t like a racial comment; it was a joke, but I would never say that in Baychester.”

Bella asks for a refill: “Pepsi with mad ice, please.” When I ask her if she regrets moving to the Bronx, she immediately shakes her head, gulps some Pepsi, and almost chokes: “Hell no, Alexis! I was finally free and on my own in Baychester. I could never regret it.” Baychester was also the place where Bella found a job. She worked as a nurse’s assistant for a home health care agency. Compared to job opportunities in Baychester, the opportunities in Bushwick were seldom.

My family and I spent a lot of time in Baychester when my nephew Adrian was first born. We went to our favorite pizza joint on Boston Road every Friday night. Carlos, the owner, knew our order: one regular pie, one pepperoni, and Pepsi with mad ice. To get to Baychester from my dorm room on 130^th St. and St. Nicholas Terrace, I take the express D train from 125^th St. to Kingsbridge Road and then the Bx26 bus to Bartow Avenue. Before I meet Bella, I stop into the local corner store for some gum. I’m immediately greeted by Gordo, the clerk, who adores me and my family: “Lexi! Ay, caramba! Where have you been, mi corazón?” I tell him about the move to Poughkeepsie, the breakup, and so on. He tells me of all his customers that have moved, the changes in the neighborhood, and how more and more Latinos, especially Puerto Ricans, are moving out to Connecticut. I suddenly turn into the most ridiculous chismosa when I’m talking with Gordo. And this: the laughs, familiarity, los chismes, is what I, and Bella, miss most about the neighborhood.

In a New York Times article, A Place for Renters to Buy In, Alison Gregor writes of Baychester’s demographics: “The population then [post-World War II] consisted primarily of Irish, German and Italian immigrants. Today Baychester is predominantly home to families from Jamaica, Trinidad, Antigua, Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, Guyana and Grenada, as well as African- and Italian-Americans.” When I show Bella this article, she sneers: “What does this Alison Gregor know about Baychester? I bet she never lived here.” Like all of us, Bella’s perception isn’t factual. I understand, though, because we spent all our time around the high-rise public housing project called Edenwald, where she lived. There, most of her neighbors were black or West Indian. However, in reality, Bella is not a minority even though she feels like one.

The people of Baychester range in age. Adrian always had kids to play with at the local park. My brother Sean never failed to find a pick up basketball game at the court with other twenty-somethings. Middle-aged and working men and women live there too. The person I remember most, though, is Mr. Owens, the old man who reads on a bench in the Edenwald projects every afternoon. He reads the classics. Bella and I pass by him on our way to get some pizza. “My dear, Alexis,” he says. “Long time no see.” We talk of Nineteen Eighty-Four and Crime and Punishment. (He knows I love to read.) I then ask him about Baychester: “I’m going to say something a bit out there, a bit outlandish, Alexis. I think Baychester is the new up and coming. Just wait and see.” He hears a lot of talk of big developers’ plans to “fix up” the Bronx and make it the “new Manhattan.” Perhaps the Bronx, or specifically Baychester, will soon be the new Harlem, a place where people move to from downtown. Bella and I walk away, smiling, because although we know he’s crazy, we know he’s probably right.

Baychester, in general, is typical of the Bronx. Housing includes apartments, individual homes, and public housing. The neighborhood is mostly residential, except for Boston Road and Baychester Avenue where all the businesses are located. According to Bella, the neighborhood is home to the best auto body shops in New York City. (She wouldn’t know because she only recently learned how to drive.) As we walk around, I compare it to Manhattan. The streets are less crowded. There’s less traffic. Baychester is perfect for someone looking for space, just like Bella was in September 2007 when she was young and scared, looking for an apartment with her son.

“So, B, when you left the Bronx, did you miss your friends?” Bella almost falls off her seat with laughter. “Lexi, are you kidding? Me? Friends? No, I didn’t really make friends in Baychester. I’m not so friendly!” Bella isn’t the most affable woman, but she did make a few friends. Jackie, her neighbor in Edenwald, is one. Like Bella, Jackie recently moved out of Baychester. She moved to Yonkers, a part of New York that New Yorkers call “upstate,” but really isn’t upstate. Like Bella, Jackie moved out of the Bronx for new opportunities and to live less expensively: “I kid you not, Alexis, we was paying double for rent in the Bronx then what we paying now.” After some research, I learned that the rents in the Bronx are not double the rents in Yonkers, but they are more expensive. Mr. Owens agrees too: “Everyday, someone else leaves. It’s weird too, you know, because the Bronx used to be the place people moved to when they were looking for cheaper housing. Now people are going upstate or out of state to pay less rent.”

Bella and I sit in our favorite booth by the window. Carlos comes over with our slices: two plain, two pepperoni: “Chicas, the regular, of course.” Bella is happy in Poughkeepsie. She lives in a massive apartment building right by the Hudson River and Poughkeepsie train station. She’s still working as a nurse’s assistant, but she’s making way more money than she was making in the Bronx. And, most impressively, Bella, a city girl born and bred, drives her own car. I ask if she misses anything about Baychester: “Damn, this pizza is good. Sorry, yeah I do. I miss you…and Gordo!” We laugh, our mouths wide open with pizza until Carlos comes over with a soda cup in each of his hands: “How could I forget your sodas? Pepsi. Mad ice.”

For my final project, I made the decision to research Koreatown. Despite its name, it is nowhere near the size of a town. Instead, it is a tiny sliver of Manhattan that runs between 5th and 6th avenue on 32^nd street. It isn’t large at all, but there’s a lot to be discovered within this small block. Packed inside are numerous restaurants that serve cultural Korean dishes, a food court that serves both bulgolgi and frozen yogurt from an American chain, a bookstore that advertises the latest merchandise from Korea’s pop industry, and even a few French-themed restaurants that exclusively sell desserts, complete with employees wearing berets.

            Koreatown was never formally planned – it just happened. We can trace its origins back to the opening of Koryo books. I briefly interviewed a current employee of the bookstore, a young man with circular rimmed and glasses half of his straight, shoulder length hair pulled back into a ponytail. He told me that the bookstore had been open for about 30 years, which coincides with the time that Korean restaurants started popping up in the area in the 1980s. After the opening of the bookstore and a handful of restaurants, other Korean immigrants were quick to settle and start up their own establishments until their business engulfed the block and the area became known as Koreatown.

            The area has a history of being inhabited mainly by Korean immigrants, and owes its growth to the increase of immigration from South Korea. According to the Asian American Federation of New York Census Information Center, Manhattan’s Asian population saw large growth from 1990 to 2000. From 1990 to 2000, the Asian population in this borough increased by 42 percent from 110,362 to 156,710. Manhattan’s five largest Asian ethnic groups in 2000 were, in order from greatest to least – Chinese, Indians, Japanese, Koreans, and Filipinos. In the year 1990, the Korean population consisted of 6,183 people. By 2000, it had nearly doubled at 11, 851.

           Located right next to Herald Square, Koreatown is easy to reach by subway trains and city buses. The B, D, F, Q, N, R, V and W trains all make stops to Herald Square or to locations nearby. Increased accessibility is offered by the availability of a PATH train station and buses that run along 32^nd street, 34^th street, the Avenue of the Americas and Seventh Avenue. For those looking call Ktown their home, the cultural location is short on space. This has caused various businesses within tiny Koreatown to stack up upon each other, which means most of the available housing is located nearby in the surrounding streets. While the prices of the apartments are not as high as Chelsea or Gramercy Park, the two areas that sandwich Koreatown, the city is still an expensive place to live. So although prices have slipped in recent years, the housing is still not cheap and there are not very many opportunities to buy, creating a competitive market. To get an idea of how much it would cost to live near Koreatown, some examples of apartments include a three-bedroom two-bath penthouse co-op with a terrace, at 372 Fifth Avenue, which dropped from $1.775 million to $1.645 million. A one-bedroom at Herald Towers could rent for about $2,700 a month.

            Koreatown has a variety of businesses and institutions, but schools are not included in that list. Public School No. 33 is located nearby, and a few years ago the students there displayed a higher proficiency at reading and math than the citywide average – 67% and 96% respectively, while the average was 61% and 80%. Eighth graders in Junior High School 104 showed 65% proficiency in reading and 73% in math, versus 43% and 60% citywide. There is a high school nearby called the High School for Fashion Industries. In 2007, the students had SAT averages of 419 in reading and 416 in math and verbal, which is slightly lower than the citywide average of 438, 460 and 433 citywide.

          If you take a casual stroll through Koreatown, you will likely be pleased to discover the variety of businesses that are readily available – there are spas, jewelry stores, and numerous restaurants. One important tip to always keep in mind while making your way through this packed block is this – Always look up. Stacked upon restaurants and spas are karaoke bars and discount clothing shops. Stacked upon those are lounges, electronic stores and much more. When the sky gets dark, the buildings light up and the clubs open their doors to attract a different crowd. Not everything is so openly advertised or easy to spot – sometimes to find a club or a lounge, you need to have gotten a tip from somebody else who is more intimately acquainted with the area. It may be small, but Ktown has many hidden gems just waiting to be uncovered and explored.

          The appearance of Koreatown is that of a narrow block with moderately tall buildings, and on every floor a different business operates. It all comes together to emulate the city of Seoul, South Korea, a densely populated metropolis where many of the immigrants have their roots. The image of Seoul is further reflected in the music that can be heard in the restaurants and the fashion of those who walk the streets. The locals, are well dressed, impeccably groomed and displaying the latest Korean fashion and it is not uncommon to hear upbeat, Korean pop music being played from the speakers inside the food establishments.

            As you walk down the block searching for a particular restaurant, you will likely come by a few delivery trucks with the bright-eyed faces of popular Korean celebrities plastered on their side, the blank white spaces beside them filled with colorful Hangul. Looking around Koryo bookstore, you’re greeted by shelves and shelves of books titled in Korean lettering, and a section of the store is devoted to the latest Kpop stars. You can buy their latest albums, photobooks, and other merchandise. All in all, while Koreatown is small, it does a commendable job in fitting a mini-Seoul inside one Manhattan block. It appears that those who live in or around Koreatown have done their best to create a home away from home.

            There are many differences between American culture and Korean culture. Like in most Asian cultures, there is a great emphasis on family and respect. Elders are greeted with a traditional bow and are served first during meals. Additionally, non-family members are also treated with a large amount of care and respect. While emphasis is placed on family, Koreans also value relationships with neighbors and encourage participation in community events. Interestingly, when Korean infants become 100 days old or when a person reaches 60 years old, it is a cause for a family celebration.

              Traditionally, Korean marriages are arranged by the family elders, who are considered the wisest and therefore make the most important decisions. Together with the parents of the bride and groom and a matchmaker, the groom’s horoscope is analyzed, a marriage date is set, and then the wedding is organized. It is the responsibility of the groom’s family to send the bride a wedding dress along with additional gifts. Korea also observes many holidays that are not celebrated in the United States, including the Korean New Year, known as Seollal, the celebration of the first full moon, Daeboreum, the celebration of Spring, called Dano, and Chuseok, which is a harvest festival and also an event to honor one’s ancestors. During these holidays it is common to wear traditional garb known as Hanbok.

           The creation story of Korea can be found in its mythology. It is believed that a god named Hwanung descended from the heavens and used his power to transform a bear into a woman. He married her and the woman gave birth to their son, named Tangun who became the founder of Korea and created the first capital of the Korean nation in 2333 BC. The Korean writing style, known as Hangul, was invented in 1446 during the rule of King Sejong. Originally, the alphabet consisted of 28 letters. Today, only 24 of those letters are used.

          Koreatown has seen rapid development since its humble origins in the 1980s. Since it is still young and developing, the existence of this unique, cultural location of Manhattan doesn’t seem be threatened. The only potential issues it may face in the future is an influx of European immigrants taking interest in the tiny Manhattan block or increased competition as new businesses all fight for their own space in a small area with limited room.

           At a glance, Koreatown may not seem like much. It isn’t large, most of the food looks as foreign as it sounds, and you can walk through it in less than five minutes. But if you pay just a little extra attention, there’s a lot waiting to be experienced. Whether you’re into food, karaoke, or shopping, it’s easy to find a reason to spend time there.

WORKS CITED:

1. “A Stroll Through Manhattan’s Koreatown.” Time To Wander. WordPress, n.d. Web. 05 May 2014. <http://www.timetowander.com/manhattan-koreatown/>.

2. Panse, Sonal. “Korean Culture.” Buzzle. Buzzle.com, 16 Apr. 2008. Web. 05 May 2014. <http://www.buzzle.com/articles/korean-culture.html>.

3. Pillai, Prabhakar. “Facts About South Korea.” Buzzle. Buzzle.com, n.d. Web. 05 May 2014. <http://www.buzzle.com/articles/facts-about-south-korea.html>.

 

4. Baldwin, Deborah. “Exotic Flavor, Beyond Just the Food.” The New York Times. The New York Times, 18 Oct. 2008. Web. 05 May 2014. <http://www.nytimes.com/2008/10/19/realestate/19livi.html?_r=1&adxnnl=1&pagewanted=all&adxnnlx=1399316805-PyMZcGh/GvkOv4+DNUeZHg&>.

 

5. “Upcoming Events.” Asian American Federation. Asian American Federation, 2013. Web. 05 May 2014. <http://www.aafny.org/index.asp>. <http://www.aafny.org/cic/briefs/manhattan.pdf>