El Vicentino
by Christopher Mammano
Flushing is an amazing place to experience a rich diversity in food. It is common knowledge that Queens has one of the most diverse populations in New York. It is no wonder there are so many unique and great ethnic restaurants in Flushing. Among one of these great restaurants is El Vicentino, a Salvadorian restaurant located in north Flushing. The restaurant opened only two years ago, and the owner immigrated to this country only a few years before that. It is common knowledge that El Salvador is in political and social unrest. Most of these problems began in the early 1980s as a result of the revolution. This led to an exodus of many El Salvadorian immigrants. From talking with the owner and watching and listening to customers I have learned many things about the function of this restaurant. True, El Vicentino is a restaurant and its primary function is to operate as a business. It serves the community specific foods and in turn makes a profit, but El Vicentino is indeed much more than that. There are not many El Salvadorian restaurants in Flushing, so this restaurant is indeed unique in both its success and location. This restaurant serves as a house of culture and provides a feeling of home and comfort for El Salvadorian immigrants and their descendants. Through providing traditional meals, people once removed from their land and home are comforted by their familiar language and food.
El Vicentino is a fascinating restaurant that any one can enjoy. El Vicentino’s primary function is that of a restaurant, and a very good one at that. Upon walking into this cozy small and decorated restaurant my group and I were confronted with some of the greatest culinary aromas. Wafts of exotic foods permeated through the air. To others I imagine it smelt more like wafts of home cooked meals and tradition. But all the same, traditional El Salvadorian foods are served here. Some of these foods are: pupusas (a corn meal patty filled with beef or cheese) tortillas, tamales, yucca, plantains, and beans and rice. The restaurant is usually not very crowded inside for most of the food people order for pick up. There are many small tables available. The menu is written in English and Spanish. Some of the staff is bilingual but most of the workers and customers only speak Spanish. I have never actually spoken in English in this restaurant but ordering is not a problem though for a non-Spanish speaker. The meal choices are numbered and easily pointed to.
The food was rich, heavy, and very filling. Most of the meals are served with sour cream, avocados, pupusas, fried plantains, and beans and rice. Just these sides are enough to satisfy any hunger. I ordered La bandeja Salvadoreña or in English the El Salvadorian flag. This is a steak meal complete with all of the above sides. The steak, light and well marinated, was made only tastier with the rich papusa (which was cheese filled) and the other sides. The grilled plantain was warm, sweet, perfectly browned, and completely delicious. I can say with all seriousness it was the most filling meal I have ever had.
El Vicentino was one of the more delicious food stops I experienced and was also one of the more interesting ones as well. It truly provides any curious person who walks in with a food experience they will not forget. But these open doors truly comfort many people in ways I did not and could not think of beforehand. Upon visiting this restaurant several times I have noticed that many of the customers are frequent if not daily customers. They draw from this restaurant and its traditional foods: a comfort, stability, and a connection to the past. From understanding the language and many of the conversations I walked away with not only a full stomach, but also a certain respect, understanding, and silent appreciation that I can not quite name.
